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Thom ?????

Old 11-26-2003, 05:23 PM
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Default Thom ?????

What sealer would you recommend instead of
5200 for thu hull transducer. Not holding you to anything on this , just a recommendation.
Thanks Bill

PS The info. you give is outstanding!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:41 PM
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Default Thom ?????

Don't wanna jump on Thom's thread, but.....

Why would you want to use anything else below the waterline?

Have you had a problem with 5200 or equivilant in the past?

I guess what I'm trying to say is what is your objective with this post? Save time, money, have something against 3m?
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:53 PM
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Default Thom ?????

Have been using 3M 5200 with success, BUT
if a new product or something better I'm
GAME. I know for fact, if ya want to remove
items using 5200 it is a JOB. Thanks for
your info. Bill
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Old 11-26-2003, 07:45 PM
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Default Thom ?????

wahls,
3M 5200 or 101 sealant works well for thru-hull t-ducers.
I dont know of or use anything but the two for installs. Why worry about removal? If you have to take it out because it does not work, chances are its going to be replaced anyways. I tend to stay with what I know works. Just my opinion.....

Maybe Thom knows of something else.

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Old 11-26-2003, 08:37 PM
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Default Thom ?????

wahls2,

That's a good question. Below is a link to a good discussion about it. Thom also gives a thumbs up to 5200 and how to apply it. Hope this helps.

http://thehulltruth.com/6/ubb.x?a=tp...661#5686037661

seabass

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Old 11-27-2003, 05:22 AM
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Default Thom ?????

My first choice is West Marine's Multicaulk, but I'll pretty much take whatever I have laying around. Generally I prefer not to use 5200 though. I usually use it in places where I want its backup adhesive ability as well as its sealing ability.

With thru hulls you've got a large nut holding everything in place. If you have been generous in applying whatever sealer you are using it will be on the stem and inside of the hole through the hull (which should be a good fit to the stem anyway) as well as on both sides of the fairing block and hull. Do't worry, you could use toothpaste or pizza dough on it and that joint won't leak appreciably. Remember, you went to a great deal of trouble making sure that your fairing block was a hand-in-glove fit to your hull and that went a long way toward a waterproof seal. The sealer you used is really there to form a bonded gasket and its the gasket half of that that is the most important, not the bond.

I should tell you this too, and its only my experience and I'm sure that there are others who have had different experiences but I'm allso sure that there are even more people who have no experiecne with this mishap at all. Only once in my life have I been on a boat that hit something and broke the thru-hull transducer loose from the boat. The particular transducer was one of those two stem models made by (fogett the company's name) some place out in Califronia. The transducer had one stem of about 2" and a seonc stem of about 1". We hit a log or something at 20-something knots or so. The transducer broke off at the small stem and cracked the large stem. The transducer spun around 90 degrees at the same time of the impact. It was pretty obvious what had happened because of the thump and immediate loss of picture on the bottom machine as well as the loss of speed readout, but it retained temperature. That told the whole story. Anyway we took a look in the bilge and saw it had been twisted. Not a drop of water was comming into the boat (we ran the boat the rest of the day and took on no water) and even if the transducer had been knocked completely off the boat it still would not have leadked. The reason is that the transducer stem(s) will stay with the boat and they fill the hole. In that non-leaking case (I was the one who got the job of replacing the transducer) the transducer had been sealed with that blue silicon sealer that I think people use to make gaskets with or for household dutys. The stuff worked just fine. So if it will hold in the worst of circumstance just about anything will. Had 5200 been used in that case it would have also required some fiberglass repair.

I might also mention that last month I had to remove the trim tabs from my boat in preparation for painting. I had used 5200 between the thin backing plates for the tabs themselves and the hull a year earlier when putting the tabs on. When I pried the plates off it ripped away about half of the gel coat under the plates, and that was on both sides. I didn't mind particularly because I was doing a bit of glass work anyway, but it was a clear demonstaration of the tenacity of 5200. Great stuff where you need it but I try not to use it where I don't need to. I say that because by contrast a little while later I was mounting the tank for a new transducer in my hull and in that case I used 5200 and would not have used anything else. The reason is that no only was I wanted to seal the tank down to the hull but I was using it as an adhesive as well. It is what is gluing the tank down. There both of the properties of the 5200 were put to use, and that is the sort of circumstance where I not only like it, I demand it.

Thom

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Old 11-27-2003, 07:03 AM
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Default Thom ?????

Thanks, for the info. Bill
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Old 11-27-2003, 04:19 PM
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Default Thom ?????

My apologies to wahls2 and Thom. I posted incorrect info on what Thom had recommended in the thread I referenced. I was about half asleep and didn't read all the way through it.

Again, sorry to misquote you Thom.

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Old 11-28-2003, 03:43 PM
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Default Thom ?????

I recommend 4200 for a thru hull ducer. 5200 is too hard, and too difficult to remove WHEN you change your ducer cause it's broken of have new model...

Most manufacturers recomend either 4200 or Life caulc (same stuff).

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