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Simrad Autopilot Issue

Old 05-29-2009, 09:02 AM
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Default Simrad Autopilot Issue

I new to the auto pilot thing. I just bought a boat with an AP16 on it. When I went to initiate the autopilot, the boat took a hard left turn. After, I realized the rudder was reading 60 degrees to stb when I was really going in a straight line.

After going through the manual, I went to the seatrail area of the set-up - and on a straight course, reset the rudder with the "set rudder to zero" function.

Problem was not solved - and now even after "setting rudder to zero" it reads that it is off.

Any suggestions or do I have a bad part?
Old 05-29-2009, 09:26 AM
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Might want to do a master reset to factory defaulsts and then go thru the entire setup--dockside and unerway.

Also check to see if there is some offset required for the Heading sensor or the Rudder Reference due to mounting issues.
Old 05-29-2009, 09:36 AM
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sounds like the mechanical rudder feedback needs to be adjusted, if it is equipped with one,,,,,simple fix.
Old 05-29-2009, 09:37 AM
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tuna cutter...i have the same exact unit on my 31 contender and was having the same exact problems that youre having .....your rudder feedback unit is toast !! i assume you have outboard motors? on outboard motors right by the engine you have the linear feedback unit, that is was turns the engines, that part goes back after a couple of years. it costs $330 from www.bethel-marine.com, they have the best prices and fastest shipping.

you can do a master reset...i did that many many times, still the same problem. when you go thru your setup, the rudder angle that is actually perceived by the computer is off, that is why when you go to put the boat in autopilot , it thinks that the engines are not centerd and it takes a hard turn to try to correct it.

it is definitely the linear feedback unit.

let me know if you have any questions. its very easy to take out your old one and replace it with the new one. go to simrads website, they have info bout the linear feedback unit on there.
Old 05-29-2009, 11:17 AM
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Warmpinkcenter - I think you are right. Any way you can forward me a link to the part (I tried to find it on the site). Thanks in advance.
Old 05-29-2009, 11:27 AM
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Instead of the rotary rudder reference unit use a Teleflex Smart Stick-- http://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/smartstick

I have two predecssors to the smart stick that are not compatible with my AR11---the part number is a Teleflex 1402. If they will work with the unit you have I'll be glad to sell you one or both.

Let me know--
Old 05-29-2009, 05:29 PM
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I had the same problem with my AP3000X. The rudder feedback stopped working. I replaced it with a new unit from THT's BOE Marine. Problem solved.
Old 05-30-2009, 05:17 AM
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Thanks for the replies!
Old 05-31-2009, 09:03 PM
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tunacutter here you go:

http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en/Pr...near-Feedback/
Old 05-31-2009, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NoFearEyes View Post
Instead of the rotary rudder reference unit use a Teleflex Smart Stick-- http://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/smartstick

I have two predecssors to the smart stick that are not compatible with my AR11---the part number is a Teleflex 1402. If they will work with the unit you have I'll be glad to sell you one or both.

Let me know--
I think the teleflex part number for the smartstick is AR4502. This is the unit i used with the simrad AP11 -12, an old Navico unit. I used this part no. (4502) which is the generic model, not the simarad model they sell.
This is not a straight forward project. My course computer for my AP 12 has a 12Vdc output to the rudder feedback. The smartstick AR4502 takes a 5vdc input so I added a homemade converter that makes 12 into 5 volts, it was a cheap chip and capacitor and plastic enclosure, all about 10 bucks. I used the AR4502 rather than the AR4502si which is built specifically for simrads because the old unit I have is not officially a simrad and is of different design than the true simrads. You will have to determine which you have. For instance my autopilot manual under troubleshooting states that the signal needs to be about (0.5-4.5v) which is what the AR4502 has and the AR4502si apparently provides a frequency signal, not voltage signal.
The Smartsticks are sealed units will no moving parts that pass their elements over a magnet mounted on your steering cylinder. They cost about 250 . Cheaper than the OEM and are reliable. I hate rudder feedbacks they always seem to be the Achilles heel of outboard units.
The Teleflex site has data sheets on these units. I would think twice about buying a simrad replaceement part. It probably won't last long.
Old 06-01-2009, 07:53 AM
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tunacutter....stick with the original parts, get it from simrad, and replace what you have with an original part, i have the ap16, ive done this, don't deviate from what you have.
Old 06-01-2009, 05:28 PM
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[quote=knotreel;2344544]I think the teleflex part number for the smartstick is AR4502. This is the unit i used with the simrad AP11 -12, an old Navico unit. I used this part no. (4502) which is the generic model, not the simarad model they sell.
This is not a straight forward project. My course computer for my AP 12 has a 12Vdc output to the rudder feedback. The smartstick AR4502 takes a 5vdc input so I added a homemade converter that makes 12 into 5 volts, it was a cheap chip and capacitor and plastic enclosure, all about 10 bucks. I used the AR4502 rather than the AR4502si which is built specifically for simrads because the old unit I have is not officially a simrad and is of different design than the true simrads. You will have to determine which you have. For instance my autopilot manual under troubleshooting states that the signal needs to be about (0.5-4.5v) which is what the AR4502 has and the AR4502si apparently provides a frequency signal, not voltage signal.
The Smartsticks are sealed units will no moving parts that pass their elements over a magnet mounted on your steering cylinder. They cost about 250 . Cheaper than the OEM and are reliable. I hate rudder feedbacks they always seem to be the Achilles heel of outboard units.
The Teleflex site has data sheets on these units. I would think twice about buying a simrad replaceement part. It probably won't last long.[/quote

The AP11 uses RF instead of voltage for the Rudder Reference. The Smartstick is made for Teleflex at the site I posted--I talked to the owner and designer. The Smartstick comes in 3 flavors--Raymarine, SIMRAD, and generic. Call them and they will give you all the 411.

I goofed and bought the older Teleflex AR1402 units which are NOT RF for the AP11 I have. The rotary reference units need a special RAYMARINE braket to interface properly to most outboards and I can'tg find the bracket by it self so I ordered the Smartstick AR4502SI--cost is $220
Old 06-01-2009, 05:34 PM
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the simrad part is backordered...2 -3 weeks...just tried to get one today for a customer....
Old 06-01-2009, 05:38 PM
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The latest (software) version of the AP16 has Virtual Rudder Feedback. It can be used without a rudder feedback unit (probably steers more accurately with one though).
Old 06-01-2009, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
the simrad part is backordered...2 -3 weeks...just tried to get one today for a customer....
did you trying calling bethel-marine.com ? they had it in stock two weeks ago when i got mine. best prices around too !
Old 06-01-2009, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gdfisher View Post
The latest (software) version of the AP16 has Virtual Rudder Feedback. It can be used without a rudder feedback unit (probably steers more accurately with one though).

i checked with my electronics dealer and they said they're been having problems with the virtual rudder feedback ;? i don't really know anyone with an ap16 with the new virtual rudder feedback, maybe someone with one can chime in
Old 06-01-2009, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tunacutter View Post
I new to the auto pilot thing. I just bought a boat with an AP16 on it. When I went to initiate the autopilot, the boat took a hard left turn. After, I realized the rudder was reading 60 degrees to stb when I was really going in a straight line.

After going through the manual, I went to the seatrail area of the set-up - and on a straight course, reset the rudder with the "set rudder to zero" function.

Problem was not solved - and now even after "setting rudder to zero" it reads that it is off.

Any suggestions or do I have a bad part?
You can test the LFB by measuring the resistance between the green and yellow wires and between the brown and white wires. Resistance should be ~27 ohms for each pair. You will have to open up the linear interface box to do that.

Before you swap parts go through the entire setup (Dockside and Sea trial). I just installed a new LFB for my AP11 (got it last week from BOE - there was supposed to be a new batch available from Simrad today). I had some problems with the setup - I had to reverse the rudder angle settings as the rudder indicator display was backwards. The manual is not very clear on that. Until I got it all straigtened out the autopilot would only do hard left turns.

If you call Navico customer service be warned that it is not even close to the standard of support that Simrad used to provide. There was a gentlemen named Tom who worked there (he was still there in December) - if he is still there he is the person to ask for.

At one time Simrad offered a free upgrade to the virtual rudder feedback for the AP16 (it's a software upgrade).

Ed
Old 06-16-2009, 09:19 AM
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This is not a straight forward project. My course computer for my AP 12 has a 12Vdc output to the rudder feedback. The smartstick AR4502 takes a 5vdc input so I added a homemade converter that makes 12 into 5 volts, it was a cheap chip and capacitor and plastic enclosure, all about 10 bucks. I used the AR4502

Any help on where I could pick one up and how it would be wired?
Thanks
Old 04-22-2010, 11:15 AM
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What is the master reset key sequence for the AP12? Have tried the port/starboard/Nav power on mentioned by SIMRAD. That didn't work, least I see no changes in anything. All my unit does is beep, no diagnostic lights on the computer and unit will not work. Pump verifies fine..have my doubts about the rudder reference now

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