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Installation of Simrad AP12H/AP14H

Old 04-30-2003, 05:05 PM
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Default Installation of Simrad AP12H/AP14H

I will be purchasing a Simrad AP12H or AP14H soon and have heard that it requires the purchase of a hose & fitting kit separately. Something like the SeaStar HF5501 or buy the hose & fittings separately from a hydraulic parts distributer. Simrad also told me that some people put in shutoff valves to the autopilot pump as a safety measure and to make maintenance of the steering system easier and some people have found it necessary to use hydraulic teflon thread sealant (never teflon tape!) on the fittings to avoid leaks.

Does anyone know if this is true or have any other installation tips?

Thanks,
Dave.
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Old 04-30-2003, 07:12 PM
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Default Installation of Simrad AP12H/AP14H

I installed an AP-12H on our Grady Islander 270 this winter.
The unit comes with the "brain", the control head, the compass, the linear feedback unit, and the hydraulic pump. And a good installation manual - well written.
What is not included is the "plumbing" you will need to connect between the helm and the hydraulic pump. This is not included because there are too many variables. For instance, our Grady has 3/8" copper tubing for the entire hydraulic system from the helm to the transom, but SeaStar hoses are more common.
The fittings you need, as well as the type and length of hose, depends on what is installed in your boat now, and where you mount the hydraulic pump.
I mounted the hydraulic pump in the "forward rigging compartment", which is the area under the aft end of the starboard side of the V-berth. I put it there for access, isolation from the elements, and because I had heard that they are a bit noisey (true). I needed 12-foot hoses to run between the helm and pump, and used SeaStar hoses. You will be running three (3) hoses - one for port, one for starboard, and one for return. You will need "T" fittings to tap in to the port and stbd lines behind the helm, and a straight connector to tap in to the return port on the helm (currently plugged).
I did not put any isolation valves in the system, but if you do I think you would need at least three, near the pump, so you could remove it without losing a lot of hydraulic fluid.
I did install the power to the pump with bullet connectors, for ease of removal and for the initial bleeding of the system (follow the manual and run the pump directly to power, in both directions).
I have some good photos of my installation, and can email them to you if you have a broadband connection. If you do, and want them, email me (address in my profile).
There are also some tricks for installing the linear feedback unit that I learned from a Simrad tech support dude. Will show well in the pictures.
Good luck,
Brian
P.S. If you want to drive down here, I'll be happy to show you all the details.

[2002 GW Islander 270 - 2001 Yam 250 OX66. Fishin' & cruisin'
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Old 04-30-2003, 07:47 PM
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Default Installation of Simrad AP12H/AP14H

Thanks for the great info Brian!

It sounds like the SeaStar kit HF5501 will have all the hoses and fittings I will need as I will probably be putting everything under the helm side of my dual console. Did the Simrad kit come with any of the wiring or will I need to get that separately? Simrad seems to recommend 12 guage wire to the pump but I didn't see any specs for the rest of the wiring. I am very interested in your tricks for installing the linear feedback unit but don't have a broadband connection. I will send you my email accounts and would appreciate any pictures.

Thanks again,
Dave.
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Old 04-30-2003, 09:22 PM
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Default Installation of Simrad AP12H/AP14H

The units all have wire attached. Long, small gauge wires from the compass and control head to go the brain. Long, somewhat heavier wire from the linear feedback unit to the brain. Heavy wires attached to the pump are about six feet long, and they connect to the brain - you will have to add additional length to those if not long enough.
The only wire that you will need to supply yourself is the run from the power source to the brain. This needs to be fairly heavy gauge, and needs to be fed from a 15-amp breaker, due to the heavy current draw by the hydraulic motor. The alternative is to use a smaller breaker, smaller gauge wire, and then feed the hydraulic pump via a relay, but I don't think this is necessary.
Will try to send you the info and pics on the LFU tomorrow.
Brian

[2002 GW Islander 270 - 2001 Yam 250 OX66. Fishin' & cruisin'
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