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Replacing Thru-Hull Transducer

Old 01-20-2003, 07:07 PM
  #1  
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Default Replacing Thru-Hull Transducer

I started out this morning on the quest to install my Furuno 6100.

Did the install of the unit, power tested, and started pulling the wires back to the rear (using the old hummingbird tranducer cable) for a Furuno/Airmar in-hull transducer.

Removed the hummingbird and then noted another old tranducer, that you can see in the pics below... Hadn't realized in the 3 months that I have had the boat, that there was a decommisioned thru-hull.

Looking at it, it appears that it is an older version of the Airmar 525ST-MSD. Trouble is that somebody has cut the line to it, and unlike the pics I see of the newer ones, it doesn't seem to be replaceable.

The other concern is that it was not installed perpendicular to hull, for a straight down shot.

Question is, what would folks here recommend for this?

A. Leave as is, and install the in-hull transducer that I have already purchased / begun installing?

B. Somehow rebuild the current thru-hull transducer (I don't know how, but anything is possible)?

C. Remove this transducer, and install a different thru-hull unit?

I don't care about speed readings, just depth (for the fishfinder), and if I do the thru-hull route, I would also like to have temperature.

Related to all this, is how big of a problem is it, to fire off at the 19 degree transom angle, instead of straight down?

Thanks,
Andy





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Old 01-21-2003, 05:49 AM
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Default Replacing Thru-Hull Transducer

aalbert,
If you use the old thru hull location, install a fairing block to correct the angle. 19 degrees is too much except in very shallow water on a slow boat. From your post, I take it you already have a thru hull with the 6100.
You didn't say where the existhing thru hull was located. If you feel it was located in a good spot, free of excess turbulence, then go with the new ducer and block to proper angle at the old core location. Before you mount, be sure that the fairing block won't cause a problem if the boat is trailered. Dry fit things before opening the 5200. It's a good idea to have an extra pair of hands and eyes when you tighten the transducer down to prevent rotation. The 19 degree angle is probably why the old ducer was abandoned.
Joe

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Old 01-21-2003, 07:10 AM
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Default Replacing Thru-Hull Transducer

Well, you've already have a hole in the bottom of the boat, why not use it? I'd return the glue in, buy a new thru hull, pick up a fairing block, and stick it in the hole soon to be vacated by the transducer you found. As a side note, finding that transducer in there (didn't you notice it from the outside?) sort negates the silly fear lots of people seem to have of one of the things leaking, doesn't it?

Thom

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Old 01-21-2003, 01:37 PM
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Default Replacing Thru-Hull Transducer

Actually since I bought the boat, it has lived in rack storage, so I haven't really paid much attention to the bottom..... Call it new owner excitement, or just plain stupidity.

Anyway, that brings up the follow up question. Part of my interest about the 19 degree angle is that the boat is forklifted in and out of the water, and I am worried about anything sticking out further than it should - which is why I have been looking at the low profile thru-hull mounts (Such as the Airmar B117). I gather from popl's response that such a mount wouldn't do me much good, unless I correct the angle with a fairing block of some sort (which then runs into the question, of whether I would have a forklift target - although smaller than the original one).

-=Andy.

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Old 01-21-2003, 02:29 PM
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Default Replacing Thru-Hull Transducer

You can mount one right on the centerline to avoid problems with fork lifts, and with trailer rollers or bunks too for that matter. If its every going to see a trailer and you center mount the tansducer just make sure its behind where the last center roller hits the hull.

Thom

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