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final battery combiner install question - I swear

Old 05-31-2007, 08:13 PM
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Default final battery combiner install question - I swear

I'm doing this project this weekend - installing the Blue Seas Add a Battery system which calls for a fuse between the batteries and the ACR (combiner).

I am looking at these two options
http://bluesea.com/category/3/10/pro...e/overview/150

and

http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/129

Basically, the breaker is more expensive but when you add the price of the ANL fuses, one blown fuse would make the ANL fuseblock more expensive.

Thoughts?
Old 05-31-2007, 08:49 PM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

I would go with the breaker, I've got them on my boat and they are great.
Old 05-31-2007, 09:21 PM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

I used the Breaker pt# 7104 --150amp on the old style. Fumbling for a fuse and storing it is a pain.
Old 05-31-2007, 09:33 PM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

I think you're right. I'll go for the breakers. The ACR is 120 Amps so i figured I'd go with 100 AMP. Any reason I wouldn't?

Thanks again!
Old 06-01-2007, 06:21 AM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

Now I might confuse you more. When I installed my ACR I had called Bluesea Tech Support with some questions. One of the questions was what size fuse/circuit breaker to use between the battery and the ACR. They switched me over to one of their electrical engineers. He told me the fuse between the battery and the ACR was to protect the wire only. In that I used 2 gauge wire he said I did not really need the fuse. He said if I wanted to I could use a wire shield over the wire (which I did). The shield helps with protection if the wire overheated (which he said was a extremely remote possibility). I did use the Blue Sea thermal circuit breaker (the one you show above) in my run to the fuse panel/battery switch where the electronics are hooked up to. You might want to give a call to Bluesea Tech Support to verify the information I suggested and make you feel more comfortable.
Old 06-01-2007, 07:19 AM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

Topfish, That's where I have mine also, and for the trolling motor, forgot to mention that.

CS, I might actually have couple 50 or 60 A thermal breakers left over, I'll go to my warehouse on monday and see, if you still need them next week, I'll sell them at $25.00 ea + s/h.
Old 06-01-2007, 07:25 AM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

thanks topfish. I did call Blue Sea yesterday and i have to say, i found their answer to be pretty non-committal. The tech (Terry) actually said, "since I don't know your system, we really can't advise you on what fuses to use. I tried to explain my system, length of run etc but he just referred me to a program they have on their website to help me select fuses and wire (even though it was a "beta version" so he said they are working out bugs). I have to say, I was a little annoyed. Their program suggested 12 gauge wire. Doesn't make too much sense to me.

My cable runs here will be very short. Everything is in the console so we're talking less than two feet. I was planning on using 6 gauge battery cable from the battery to the ACR.
Old 06-01-2007, 08:18 AM
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Default RE: final battery combiner install question - I swear

According to their documentation when the ACR senses that the motor is running (13.6V for 30s) it closes the connection between the two batteries. The current that is running through the ACR is determined by the charging amps of your motor. So, say that your motor has a 40A alternator. You need to install wire between the batteries and the ACR capable of handling at least that charge current. You also need to appropriately fuse those wires at or below their ampacity rating. Blue Seas docs say that for a 60A charge current (the chart doesn't go down to 40) you should use a #6 gauge wire. I would use the recommended #6 and fuse it at 60A.

The ACR will not close if one battery is extremely low <10.8 so I wouldn't worry too much about the current flowing from one battery to the other. Just concentrate on the charging current from the alternator.
Old 06-01-2007, 08:57 AM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

thanks again guys. GF, thanks for the offer. I need to wrap up this project this weekend so I'll pick up the breakers local.
Old 06-01-2007, 09:28 AM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

Sorry I have not answered you sooner - very busy time of year - I hope anyone who has PM'd me realizes that. We do not use breakers on this setup since we use #2 or #0 battery cable, and probably would not with #6 or #4. If your batteries are up in the console, you should be using #0 cable from the switch to the batteries. We also do not use the starter wire option either and have no problem with current draw on the house battery when starting. With the computerized outboards make sure to use lock washers under all battery connections and don't forget to hook up your engine's battery sub wire with the engine battery cable. Also make sure your automatic bilge pump connection is hooked up directly to a battery.
Old 06-01-2007, 10:02 AM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

thanks so much Lakensea. I understand you must be swamped. THis helps a ton.
Old 06-01-2007, 12:11 PM
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Default Re: final battery combiner install question - I swear

You can get 70 amp thermal breakers with automatic reset at http://www.yandina.com/SpareParts.htm (scroll down) for $9.95 each but you don't need any breakers with our combiners, they are designed to carry inrush currents up to 800% of continuous rating. We are the only company that makes combiners - we invented them in 1993 and have just under 30,000 in the field, all on UNCONDITIONAL warranty.
Old 06-04-2007, 10:32 PM
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Default RE: final battery combiner install question - I swear

finished the install this weekend. All went well and the unit works fine. No more voltage drops, house band and starter bank nicely isolated and no more switching back and forth between batteries.

Thanks for all the help, guys. Hope I can return the favor one day.

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