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hourmeter/electronics

Old 04-04-2003, 06:53 AM
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i just had the local dealer install an hourmeter on my boat. it's hooked up to the key switch, so whenever the switch is on, whether the motor is running or not, it accumulates time. is this normal? is there another way to hook it up so it only works when the engine is running? the way it's hooked up wouldn't be a problem if it weren't for the fact that my electronics run off of a switch that requires the key to be in the accessory position, thus the hour meter will run anytime i'm using radio/gps/vhf, which would be pretty much the whole time i'm on the water. do i need to hook up my electronics differently? what are my options? help!
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:14 AM
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It is normal to wire an hourmeter to the ignition switch so that it runs whenever the switch is not off. It is not normal to wire electronics through the ignition switch, that needs to be changed IMO.

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Old 04-04-2003, 07:15 AM
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Your best approach is to get your electronics power off of the ignition switch. Run a separate 12v line from your Battery Switch or Battery, if you don't have a Bat Switch, with an inline fuse to protect the wire. Terminate the wire at your console, and then feed an ON/OFF Electronics switch or breaker that then feeds all of the electronics. Leave the hour meter on the ignition switch and obviously disconnect the electronics feed from this switch.
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:15 AM
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I agree with chaps.
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Old 04-04-2003, 08:00 AM
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the electronics are currently on an accessory switch on the main panel (bilge,lights,horn,acc) but the main panel only powers up when the switch is in the on position. should i move the hot feed for this from the "key" to the battery? i believe this would be similar to what you're saying, just it's for the whole panel as opposed to only the accessory switch.
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Old 04-04-2003, 08:43 AM
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Default hourmeter/electronics

You DO NOT want your electronics connected in ANY way to your ignition system. Remove it and take the power to the bus bar, fuse/breaker box directly to either the battery or battery switch if you have one. When we say battery switch, we are NOT referring to the "Accessory switch" (similar to lights switch) on your helm. We are talking about a master battery selector type switch.

And depecing on what type, year, motor and hour meter you have, that can be normal OR wrong. Most older models can only be hooked up the way yours is. Newer ones (my Yami's for example), can and are hooked up to only cumulate time when the motor is actually running, not when the key is turned to on. Check with your delear to see of that is possible with your version.

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Old 04-04-2003, 08:50 AM
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Sounds right cajunjimbo. Just get it off of the switched lead/terminal of the ignition switch. Perhaps you can also pick up the unswitched 12v from the ignition switch and not have to go all the way back to the Battery/Bat Switch. However, with all of that electronics, bilge pump, maybe running lights, etc, etc: I would suggest that you do go all the way back to the Battery as originally suggested. A lot cleaner and safer.
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Old 04-04-2003, 08:58 AM
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birdman, i have a 2002 f225 yamaha. i assume it should be able to be hooked up similar to yours? don't know why the dealer did it this way (ease?)

i think i'll go directly to the battery with the electronics. do i need to actually run a new line from my battery in the back of the boat to the center console, or can i tap in to the main feed to the fuse panel before it reaches it? i guess i would then put a bus bar and then run electronics from this? i'm relatively new and don't want anything real complex or difficult, but want it reliable. thanks!
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Old 04-04-2003, 10:51 AM
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cajunjimbo, I think that you had best check with the dealer that did the original wiring. I thought I understood your problem, but with the Yamaha rig that you have, I can't believe the dealer wired all of the electronics through the ignition switch. Something doesn't wash, so check with him before you undertaking a rewiring job.
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Old 04-04-2003, 02:30 PM
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Yep. What he just said about your power wires. Something doesn't sound right there. I can't beleive a dealer would run electroncs of ANY kind of the ignition switch. If they did, go get your money back and SMACK him on the way out, when he asked why you just smacked him, just say: "That is from Birdman". Geeeesh!!

With the hour meter, yes, that model (assuming you purchased the Yami hour meter?) allows hours to acumulate time only when it's running as far as I know. But in either case, if you fix the first problem of having to turn the ignition on to use any electronics, it wouldn't matter becuase the only time the ignition key would be on, is when the motors were running.

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Old 04-07-2003, 11:39 AM
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o.k. call me looney. i've since discovered that my electronics are NOT wired through the ignition, thus eliminating my hourmeter problem and saving me from a re-wiring job. thanks for the info though, it's good to know for future "projects"!
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Old 04-07-2003, 06:28 PM
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I just installed a SENDEC hour meter on my engine. Basically you wrap a lead wire around a spark plug 4-5 times. and then mount the small digital gauge (about the sixe of a box of matches) either under the cowl or up to 8ft away. The meter has a internal battery that records the time to a 1/10th of an hour. The unit has worked flawlessly. It cost around $25 at sears (yes Sears). Why drill another 2" hole in the dash for a unsightly gauge that you only need to see every once in a while. I take the cowl off and there it it. check them out!
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