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Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

Old 01-31-2007, 08:26 AM
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Default Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

I am going to install an Battery Isolator on my Everglades. I have 2 batteries and plan on buying a 70 Amp, 2 Battery Isolator. The boat came with 2 wires that come out of the Honda 225 that are connected to the battery switch positive terminal (Switch is off/1/2/both type). In addition to the 2 positive wires there is a ground wire that come out of engine. I assume the smaller of the 2 positive wires mentioned is from the alternator on the motor. I had planned on removing the smaller of the 2 positive wires that is now connected to the battery switch and connect it to the proper terminal on the new battery isolator. Then I will wire as directed with the new battery isolator. I just wanted to make certain that my assumption is correct in the use of the smaller positive wire from the motor is correct for use with the battery isolator.

I plan on running #2 AWG positive and negative battery wires from my house battery to inside my center console. I will install a on/off battery switch inside the console and a new fuse block. I will connect my Raymarine stuff to new fuse block to avoid voltage drop when starting. I wanted to make certain that the wire from my Honda mentioned above is in fact the wire from the alternator. Thanks
Old 01-31-2007, 09:06 AM
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Default Re: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

I can't answer the question about the Honda, but here is a thread showing a similar setup. I like the simplicity of 1 switch that disconnects both batteries.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/t...114124&posts=4

Here is the waterproof version of the ACR

http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_id=230175

Don't forget to protect the wire running to the console with a circuit breaker or fuse. Here's a pic of a breaker along with the fuse panel I installed last season for my electronics. i eliminated all inline & glass fuses. The plug-in fuses are so much nicer

All components are Blue Seas Systems








Edit

Check to see if the Honda has an accessory charging circuit like Yamaha. If so, the combiner/isolator is unnecessary



Old 01-31-2007, 12:26 PM
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Default Re: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

Here is the easy way and you will leave your two engine wires together. The combiner can be any brand. Isolators don't charge either battery well. Also combiners keep your accessory battery independent from your start battery during engine start so your electronics won't see any transients. Once engine rpm comes up to the point that the alternator is pumping out charge voltage the combiner will switch on and both batteries will get charge current.

Oh, and you can still use your 1-2-both switch if you want but your position 99.9% of the time will be position 1.

Old 01-31-2007, 01:44 PM
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Default Re: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

Also combiners keep your accessory battery independent from your start battery during engine start so your electronics won't see any transients.
The ACR (combiner) in the above link has this feature which is not common, but preferred




2 advantages to the dual circuit switch:

1. Only one switch to turn on/off

2. You can parallel the 2 batts for emerg starts



Old 01-31-2007, 10:13 PM
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Default RE: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

topfish I would suggest that if you haven't already, to buy a factory manual for that motor and then you will know a lot more as to what is what.
Old 02-01-2007, 07:31 AM
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Default Re: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

Thank for your help, I do like the simplicity of Chaps suggestion, especially with Elusive's approval. I certainly appreciate your help. I did not think there were so many ways to provide a resolution for my electronics voltage drop issue. Just goes to show me what a great source "thehulltruth" is and thanks to all of the wonderful members and Wiley.

Thanks warthog5 for your suggestion. In the past I always purchased shop manuals for my inboard, outboard and auto engines. I normally purchased Clymer or Seloc manuals although I do have a full set of Mercruiser shop manuals for older models. To my knowledge the only shop manual that is available for larger Honda Outboard engines (225) need to be ordered from Honda at a cost of $120 and up. Clymer and Seloc manuals only go up to 130HP for Honda. I imagine Clymer and Seloc will have reasonably priced manuals for larger Honda engines in the future. I did purchase a CD with all the parts listed for Honda Outboards on Ebay. The good part of Chaps suggestion is that I do not have to worry about what wire is from the alternator.
Old 02-01-2007, 07:40 AM
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Default Re: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

Never buy Clymer or Seloc manuals. Waste of money compaired to a "Factory" manual.

$130 sound's like a lot of money up front. Most other "Factory" manual's are in the $65 to $75 range.

Think about this. $130 equates to 1 1/2hrs of shop labor one time. The manual will give you imfo for the life that you own your motor.

Clymer or Seloc manuals always seem to lack imfo. So then you break down and spend the money for a factory manual to get the imfo you need. So where is the shaving's? Just buy the Factory manual first.
Old 02-01-2007, 12:17 PM
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Default Re: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

I just bought the factory manuals for my new 225 Honda. The level of detail in them is beyond belief. Money well spent if you plan on keeping the motor for a while. You can buy the manuals through the Honda web site.
Old 02-03-2007, 04:48 PM
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Default Re: Honda 225 Alternator Wire Question

Before I rewire the charging system I would make sure of what you are doing. Most outboards recharge the battery back through the main positive cable. If you have a secondary cable it may be for a second battery and all you may have to do is connect it to the second battery.

My Yamaha F250's do this. The main (starting) battery is charged by the main cable and the second wire (10 gage) is hooked to the house battery. I have Two engines and Four batteries I only run the engines with the switches on #1 and the electronics feed off either the starboard or port #2 battery. Everything stay's charged without changing battery switch positions. The engine has the "combiner" built into it from the factory. There was no need to do or buy anything.

If the Honda doesn't work this way (although I believe it does) then wiring it the way "Chaps" showed you would work great.

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