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Old 06-19-2017, 06:14 PM   #1
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Default Installation Method

Do you have a PDF of the installation sheet that you can send to me? Or upload a picture to this thread.

Also, what kit would I buy for a Yellowfin 21 Hybrid?

How does this compare to the Ceramic Pro system?
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:37 AM   #2
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Quote:
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Do you have a PDF of the installation sheet that you can send to me? Or upload a picture to this thread.

Also, what kit would I buy for a Yellowfin 21 Hybrid?

How does this compare to the Ceramic Pro system?
We can email you a pdf. Send a request to [email protected]

Are you doing the hull and top side? Do you have a T-top?

If your answer is "yes" to both of those I would recommend the 200ml kit. That will give you enough to do 2-3 coats.

Liquid Armour is a different different formulation based on the latest technology in ceramic coatings.

Here's a link to give you the full details for the marine application.

https://www.liquidarmour.co/marine/
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:59 PM   #3
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No T-top. But will be doing the entire boat. Also would like enough left over for my Ram 3500 with camper top now that I think about it.
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:41 PM   #4
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In that case I would recommend adding an additional 100 ml kit.

This will give you more than enough to do both. I would also recommend getting an extra 5pc applicator pack and a few extra microfiber towels.
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Old 06-21-2017, 06:57 PM   #5
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Shot you am email requesting the install PDF last night. Just so you'd be looking for it.
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Old 06-21-2017, 07:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Shot you am email requesting the install PDF last night. Just so you'd be looking for it.
Pdf sent. Thanks
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:05 PM   #7
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I shot you an email, too, for instructions and amount needed for Sailfish 218 CC
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:17 PM   #8
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Email sent!!
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Old 06-27-2017, 04:43 PM   #9
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Which applicator do you recommend? What are the differences?
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:00 PM   #10
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Which applicator do you recommend? What are the differences?
For flat surface areas the Blue block and for curved areas the yellow.
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:46 PM   #11
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I am interested in coating the metal work on my 230sf world cat. It is primarily T top, rail, and rod holders.


What do I need?
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:52 PM   #12
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I am interested in coating the metal work on my 230sf world cat. It is primarily T top, rail, and rod holders.


What do I need?
If you're doing just the metal on your boat the 30ml kit will be sufficient.

https://www.liquidarmour.co/products/30ml-9h-ceramic-protective-nano-coating-kit-la-30ml-kit-1
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:23 AM   #13
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Thank you for your response I spent two hours reading all about this type of coating last night and spent a lot of time on your website. Do you have any before and after pictures of metal work?

What would you say is the difference between your product and something like clearkote systems product? For metal work it seems like they have a process that includes a prep/cleaner with some abrasive in it prior to the final sealing.


http://clearkotesystems.com
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Old 06-29-2017, 06:27 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Thank you for your response I spent two hours reading all about this type of coating last night and spent a lot of time on your website. Do you have any before and after pictures of metal work?

What would you say is the difference between your product and something like clearkote systems product? For metal work it seems like they have a process that includes a prep/cleaner with some abrasive in it prior to the final sealing.


http://clearkotesystems.com



Hi,

Not sure of all the differences or similarities, however our coating is SGS certified to protect all your boat surfaces permanently, including metal, fiberglass, vinyl, and plastics.

PM us your email and we can also send you some video.
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:46 AM   #15
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Pm sent.

At what point is t top metal beyond salvageable from a faded/some pitting standpoint any experience or before after pics of metal work?

For example

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Old 06-29-2017, 10:10 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Pm sent.

At what point is t top metal beyond salvageable from a faded/some pitting standpoint any experience or before after pics of metal work?

For example

Pitting is permanent. you can lighten the dark spots with bronze wool and Woody's wax to make it cleaner and free of oxide in pitted areas. You then need to protect from new oxidation. It will never look as good as new anodized piping though.
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Old 07-01-2017, 06:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Pm sent.

At what point is t top metal beyond salvageable from a faded/some pitting standpoint any experience or before after pics of metal work?

For example


There are a lot of different ways you can do it. Here is a link I found helpful.

http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...-aluminum.html

You can also check out the pontoon forum, one of our customers on there just redid his pontoon boat and polished out some pretty bad aluminum. Here's a couple of pictures.
Attached Images
  
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Old 07-05-2017, 06:18 AM   #18
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I just have to add, I ordered a kit and when it came up as $25 for shipping and handling thought, "maybe there's some hazmat charge there but that seems crazy."

Got the box in and it's a normal Priority Mail shipment of 2 pounds. I feel like I was raped.

You need to get that shipping charge more realistic. $25 to ship a 9x9x7 2# box is insane.
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Old 07-05-2017, 06:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshfly View Post
I just have to add, I ordered a kit and when it came up as $25 for shipping and handling thought, "maybe there's some hazmat charge there but that seems crazy."

Got the box in and it's a normal Priority Mail shipment of 2 pounds. I feel like I was raped.

You need to get that shipping charge more realistic. $25 to ship a 9x9x7 2# box is insane.
PM Sent. We will get that corrected.
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Old 07-21-2017, 07:16 AM   #20
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I do not see any installation procedures for a boat on your site......
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