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Barn door - need 2” more to clear RV ac.. brain trust what say you?

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Barn door - need 2” more to clear RV ac.. brain trust what say you?

Old 02-09-2019, 06:22 PM
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While letting air out sounds simple i have to remove the simulators and the TPM sensors on four tires and then reinstall so PIA. The door will go high enough on the tracks to clear . The spring and door frame is my limiting factor. I wish someone would tell me why winching the door up or down wont work and get rid of the spring all together. The the most resonable idea so far seems to be the low profile AC. Mine are the tall ones so this coulld work.. will look into mechanical doors.
Old 02-09-2019, 06:25 PM
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Winching the door will work, but this is THT and we need to throw out the most expensive and/or ridiculous suggestions first.
Old 02-09-2019, 06:39 PM
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Why do you need to remove the tpms to let air out?
Old 02-09-2019, 06:50 PM
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Go to a heavy truck alignment shop and get them to make mods on the suspension to where the motorhome sits lower. They could chop the springs or fabricate a different set of shackles to where the RV would sit lower.
Lower profile tires might get you an inch or two, but it'd probably cost you mpg due to less circumference of the tires spinning.
Old 02-09-2019, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mcsd63 View Post
Why do you need to remove the tpms to let air out?
Unfortunately, mine are not flow through.
Old 02-10-2019, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ono loco View Post
The spring and door frame is my limiting factor. I wish someone would tell me why winching the door up or down wont work and get rid of the spring all together.
You do not need those torsion springs. You can put springs along the side of the track to assist in the lift, or put a couple pulleys in and put a counterweight on the back wall of the garage.
Old 02-10-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by km1125 View Post
You do not need those torsion springs. You can put springs along the side of the track to assist in the lift, or put a couple pulleys in and put a counterweight on the back wall of the garage.

High Lift Garage Door Conversions

Old 02-10-2019, 08:34 AM
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Why dont you replace one of the 12 garage doors with a barn door. The hardware is simple and so is building a pair of sliding wood barn doors out of rough sawn. The will get you right to the bottom of header.
Old 02-10-2019, 09:44 AM
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I had this problem , I added a couple 2x8's to the header where the end of the opener track mounted, basically shifting the whole track and opener "back", I had the curved lifting arm like has been shown and I did a little adjustment on that. Moved the opener motor back and remounted the angle iron . That made it so the whole door would come up and be flat, nothing hanging down into the opening. It worked good long term, no problems. I'd take a pic but I sold that house .
Good Luck!
Old 02-10-2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ono loco View Post
While letting air out sounds simple i have to remove the simulators and the TPM sensors on four tires and then reinstall so PIA. The door will go high enough on the tracks to clear . The spring and door frame is my limiting factor. I wish someone would tell me why winching the door up or down wont work and get rid of the spring all together. The the most resonable idea so far seems to be the low profile AC. Mine are the tall ones so this coulld work.. will look into mechanical doors.
I would steer away from any method(s) not dedicated and intended for garage door opening; they're much heavier than you think and can get dangerous in a hurry. What part of the door is too low, the bottom or 1st stiffener?
Old 02-10-2019, 11:49 AM
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Did you say why a roll up door would not work? I have a good guy in Hempstead, he services College Station, not sure where CLS is?
Old 02-10-2019, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Thalasso View Post
Originally Posted by GulfC View Post
I would steer away from any method(s) not dedicated and intended for garage door opening; they're much heavier than you think and can get dangerous in a hurry. What part of the door is too low, the bottom or 1st stiffener?
As he stated a few times, the actual door and the tracks are not an issue... it's the header and the spring mounted on the header that's the problem.
Old 02-10-2019, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by km1125 View Post
As he stated a few times, the actual door and the tracks are not an issue... it's the header and the spring mounted on the header that's the problem.


Actually what he said was (post 30)


The door guy is telling me that the spring on the conventional overhead door is the limiting factor

Last edited by Thalasso; 02-10-2019 at 01:44 PM.
Old 02-10-2019, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by houtxfisher View Post
Did you say why a roll up door would not work? I have a good guy in Hempstead, he services College Station, not sure where CLS is?

A roll up door wont work. He doesnt have enough room above the door for the can to fit.
Old 02-10-2019, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by km1125 View Post
As he stated a few times, the actual door and the tracks are not an issue... it's the header and the spring mounted on the header that's the problem.
You cannot believe how much I wish you could keep your nose out and opinion to yourself; the question was not asked of you. Had you just left it alone, a conversation and solution with minimal work may have been accomplished. I'm out.
Old 02-10-2019, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Thalasso View Post
Actually what he said was (post 30)
The door guy is telling me that the spring on the conventional overhead door is the limiting factor
And in post #81 he said " The spring and door frame is my limiting factor. " Since he's worried about the A/C on top of the RV, I'd take it to mean the header above the door and not the frame on either side.

Last edited by km1125; 02-10-2019 at 05:27 PM.
Old 02-10-2019, 04:16 PM
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Cut two tracks in the concrete the with of the wheels
Old 02-10-2019, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by GulfC View Post
You cannot believe how much I wish you could keep your nose out and opinion to yourself; the question was not asked of you. Had you just left it alone, a conversation and solution with minimal work may have been accomplished. I'm out.
Coming from somebody that asked " What part of the door is too low, the bottom or 1st stiffener? " when he said (several times) that it's NOT the door that's an issue, I'd think YOU should be the one that should refrain from posting unless you actually read the question that was asked and post some useful information towards a solution.
Old 02-10-2019, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by km1125 View Post
Coming from somebody that asked " What part of the door is too low, the bottom or 1st stiffener? " when he said (several times) that it's NOT the door that's an issue, I'd think YOU should be the one that should refrain from posting unless you actually read the question that was asked and post some useful information towards a solution.
You have the last word, congratulations. I'm sure you're feeling very confident now. You da' man!
Old 02-10-2019, 05:25 PM
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Lowered the rear tires down to 20lbs and drove it in. This not something I want to do everytime. Door guys is coming back out to relook. My dad and still think you can shorten the lower spring brace and notch out the header.

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