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Barn door - need 2” more to clear RV ac.. brain trust what say you?

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Barn door - need 2” more to clear RV ac.. brain trust what say you?

Old 02-09-2019, 07:08 AM
  #61  
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Hard to see the entire situation without being there but redoing the concrete at the entrance may be the best option. I would not try to grind it down, I would have it cut out and re-poured. The other options involve redoing the header and that may be structural.
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:14 AM
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The difference between low profile a/c's and standard is around 3 inches - for say Dometic the low is like 9.5 inches and the standard is 12.7 inches

As others have said - that would be my route

If your RV is new you can sell the previous a/c

Good Luck
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:53 AM
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Switch to a side coil spring setup instead of a torsion spring then you can raise the opening.
Although I dont see why the header cant be raised 2" as is or at least notched for the AC. The bracket for the spring will need to be shortened but I dont see anything else in the way.
I can see the roof panels are stopping you from moving the spring up but its hard to tell exactly whats going on without better pics from the inside showing the whole setup. Honestly I think you just need a better door guy.
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:55 AM
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NASA had to notch the top of the high bay door on the north side of the VAB at Kennedy Space Center to clear the tail of the Space Shuutle. The Shuttle is gone but the notch is still there .


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Old 02-09-2019, 07:56 AM
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If the torsion bar/spring is your limiting factor. Here your solution

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Old 02-09-2019, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Seacat FL View Post
NASA had to notch the top of the high bay door on the north side of the VAB at Kennedy Space Center to clear the tail of the Space Shuutle. The Shuttle is gone but the notch is still there .

bunch of idiots over there...
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Old 02-09-2019, 08:10 AM
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I needed 2 inches so I put low profile tires on my trailer, got my inches and was able to store in garage. This was a utility trailer that didn't haul a bunch of weight so I had a lot of options, not sure what RV tire options are.
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Old 02-09-2019, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sammythetuna View Post

bunch of idiots over there...
No. The VAB was built for the Saturn 5 rocket about 1964.

It was remodeled about 1980 to accommodate the Space Shuttle.

Its been refit again for the new SLS rocket.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:21 AM
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I don't know if this will help but i offer it up to consider.
I needed about 2 inches on one of my doors in order for my boat to clear and by just modifying the pull rod making it a straight pull it got the front of the door back further in the track giving me the clearance I needed\.

Here is the original pull rod with the curved piece. This door hangs down below the door frame when open.


I cut the curve out and that allows the door to be pulled further back in the track.


Now the door is above the door opening giving me the clearance I needed. Only had about 1/2 inch but it was all I needed.



Last edited by marlinpruett; 02-09-2019 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:39 AM
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deflate the tires some
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:14 PM
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My building is metal and I was fortunate enough that I could jack up the the entire length of the bldg. After doing that I sold the RV and really didn't need the extra height. Oh well.
Good luck.
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:36 PM
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Do you need an electric door?
The shop I am building will have manual chain drive doors and no spring getting in the way.
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Old 02-09-2019, 01:37 PM
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The header at the top of the garage door is what? 2x12's? If that is the case it would be relatively simple to change those out for an engineered piece or pieces of lumber like 9 1/4" lvl's. Engineered lumber is considerably stronger than standard dimensional lumber so you may find your inches there along with either a side spring or manual, chain-driven door opener. The calculation to determine the size lvl header needed is relatively simple, your local lumber supplier could do it for you if you think it looks promising.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminated_veneer_lumber
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:07 PM
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fat chick
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:16 PM
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change the RV to a mini-split

raise the whole structure (as someone else said)
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:20 PM
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Break out two channels in the floor, each wide enough for the rear tires to fit in and spaced the width of the rear wheels. Break it out from the edge of the concrete to far enough in that the wheels go down while the AC clears the door header and then can climb back up on the floor so the coach sits level. Kind of like a channel with a ramp at the end.
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ono loco View Post
Bought a new place that has a nice big barn with 12’ doors. Need 12’ 2” to clear rear ac unit on my motorhome. Door reloacation and notch out is prob not possible. Letting air out of the rear tires
might get me thru but pain in the ass with hubcaps and sensors. One viable option may be to load the receiver hitch with weight. A large poly tank filled with water may do it but looking at all options. Once I clear the door frame I have plenty of room. Front ac clears by 1” and the rear doesn’t because of the rake. I did fill up the fuel tank which is aft of the rear axle. Open to all ideas.. good news is that the Contender clears by 3”’s..





With some of the suggestions given, I'm shocked, shocked I tell you, that no one has suggested suing the realtor and previous owner for misrepresentation of the vertical clearance for garage door opening ..
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:37 PM
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Motorhome: $100,000.00 +
Large barn: $50,000.00 +
Redneck engineering a solution to make motorhome fit in undersize barn: Priceless.
My vote would be reframe and build new doors as opposed to making something goofy looking..
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by toristoy View Post
Let air out of tires
I was really hoping I'd be the first to say this. Dam you toristoy
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Old 02-09-2019, 04:03 PM
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Get an old window unit off craigslist, put it on the side somewhere and take that A/C off the roof.


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