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Reinforcing Roll-up Garage Doors - Hurricane Season

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Reinforcing Roll-up Garage Doors - Hurricane Season

Old 05-26-2018, 11:26 PM
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Default Reinforcing Roll-up Garage Doors - Hurricane Season

We have a concrete 50x60' garage with 5 roll-up doors, 1 of which is a 14x10'. Looking for some ideas and photos of what others have done to reinforce their roll up doors in their shops. In the past I have clamped 2x4's to the tracks diagonally across the doors and backed a vehicle up to them to prevent from blowing in. Any easier or more permanent ideas others have come up with? Pictures would help.

Last edited by Tarponone; 05-26-2018 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Add info
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Old 05-27-2018, 12:24 AM
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Sub'd
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Old 05-27-2018, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Tarponone View Post
We have a concrete 50x60' garage with 5 roll-up doors, 1 of which is a 14x10'. Looking for some ideas and photos of what others have done to reinforce their roll up doors in their shops. In the past I have clamped 2x4's to the tracks diagonally across the doors and backed a vehicle up to them to prevent from blowing in. Any easier or more permanent ideas others have come up with? Pictures would help.
You've done about all you can do, also if you have a car with no place to park inside a garage, park it sideways real close to door to take brunt of the wind.
This tip here>> is from experience, once your garage is all fixed up etc..DON'T open door from house to garage, and especially don't open any stairwells going into attic if its in the garage---AND the house door to garage open together.( I needed to go look in attic for leaks as shingles had blown off) Your garage door will buckle inward like a soda can---ask me how I know. Just trust its holding and if you must check on it, wait for winds to die down a bit and go out front door and around outside to check. The "pressure" the "dead" airspace in garage remains "stable" if closed and intact. You open the house door to your garage, and you just created a lower pressure differential than outside---and the thin garage door metal can very easily buckle.
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Old 05-27-2018, 02:25 AM
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All of the roll.ups I've dealt with were much more substantial than the typical residential door. I don't think I'd do much more than you're already doing.
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Old 05-27-2018, 02:34 AM
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I went a diff route...I used some decking plates and mounted them into the concrete (machine screw concrete anchors with a flat screw - plenty on google/youtube) and the header board; then tied the 2x4 to the door itself with some flat rope/nylon webbing. For extra reinforcement the cars are right on top of them. Sample photos below. Cost about$30. Header board is the weak link.





Bonus photo of about 50 gallons of water. No clue why people buy all bottled water.

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Old 05-27-2018, 06:23 AM
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This what I have done in the past. It works- however it's time consuming and finding the right vehicle to prop against it can be a pain.

I'm thinking some brackets on the wall on either side of the door and drop 2x4s into them. Can't seem to find a prefabbed bracket that would work though.
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tarponone View Post

... however it's time consuming and finding the right vehicle to prop against it can be a pain.
I'm thinking some brackets on the wall on either side of the door and drop 2x4s into them. Can't seem to find a prefabbed bracket that would work though.
Part 1: Easy - just borrow someones' Fiat/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram
Part 2: I've seen some Simpson Strong Tie brackets intended for new construction that could be adapted for storm reinforcements.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:04 AM
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https://afence.com/store/3-LINE-WOOD-ADP..html
If you bolted this to the walls on either side of the door you could then slide the pipe [chain link type] into the holes. Sort of using it opposite of original intent, but would be easy and pretty cheap. This comes in many sizes.
Not sure how close together they would need to be. You could also insert vertical 2x4 between the pipe and the door.

You could also install a vertical 2x on the sides and then a 2x block every 4' +-. The block acts as a spacer. Then install slightly longer block on the original block. This creates a space for a horizontal 2x to be lowered into the space.
If I could draw it it would make sense I promise.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:14 AM
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If the doors would ever be subject to storm surge, open them. Saves replacing bent aluminum.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by muskrattown View Post
https://afence.com/store/3-LINE-WOOD-ADP..html
If you bolted this to the walls on either side of the door you could then slide the pipe [chain link type] into the holes. Sort of using it opposite of original intent, but would be easy and pretty cheap. This comes in many sizes.
Not sure how close together they would need to be. You could also insert vertical 2x4 between the pipe and the door.
I like that idea. Shim the bracket off the wall with some wood blocks.

The building in my case is high and dry to where flooding shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:02 PM
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https://www.dgdoors.com/hurricane-reinforcement/

What about just converting the doors to current spec?
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tarponone View Post
We have a concrete 50x60' garage with 5 roll-up doors, 1 of which is a 14x10'. Looking for some ideas and photos of what others have done to reinforce their roll up doors in their shops. In the past I have clamped 2x4's to the tracks diagonally across the doors and backed a vehicle up to them to prevent from blowing in. Any easier or more permanent ideas others have come up with? Pictures would help.
Back when I owned several buildings on the NJ shore one of them had two 22 ft. wide galvanized roll up doors that faced the ocean. When the hurricane warnings went up we used to put a HEAVY vertical 4 X 6 top to bottom up against the center of the door and lag down another horizontal one into the floor running from the door to about 12 ft. back. About 1/3 of the way down from the top of the vertical one we ran a third 4 X 6 lagged there and where it met the one on the floor maybe 8-10 ft back.
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