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Networked Motion Lights

Old 04-27-2018, 07:19 AM
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Default Networked Motion Lights

Anyone know of any that are not battery powered?

Currently I have one on the back corner of the house next to the driveway. It lights up a bit of the back yard, and part of the driveway. Would like to add one to the front corner that would get the rest of the driveway and the sidewalk in front of the house. I would like the motion sensor on each light to trigger both lights. Anyone aware of such a product?

I have no desire for phone alerts or anything like that. Just want it to light up the driveway fairly bright when they are triggered. Generally this is more for my own use than it is security, but security is one desired benefit.
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Old 04-27-2018, 07:42 AM
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Old 04-27-2018, 07:48 AM
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Easiest way to do this would probably be with something like a Zwave-enabled floodlight, or an Insteon motion sensor and switches for the lights.

It would basically be very light home automation. The idea is that all the devices can communicate with each other and you can set them up so one light going on/off controls the other lights.

IMO the Insteon units would be the easiest to setup, however I think the motion sensors are battery operated and you'd probably have to replace the batteries once a year or so.
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Old 04-27-2018, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dev View Post
Easiest way to do this would probably be with something like a Zwave-enabled floodlight, or an Insteon motion sensor and switches for the lights.

It would basically be very light home automation. The idea is that all the devices can communicate with each other and you can set them up so one light going on/off controls the other lights.

IMO the Insteon units would be the easiest to setup, however I think the motion sensors are battery operated and you'd probably have to replace the batteries once a year or so.
Definitely want to avoid batteries completely. Easy to wire up what I am trying to do, but batteries on the sensors would involve getting out a ladder. I am lazy and don't like getting out the ladder.
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:59 AM
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Think I may have found a solution. Looks like I can use a pair of traditional motion sensor fixtures. On these the hot leg feeding the bulbs comes off of the motion sensor. Since I am wiring in the 2nd fixture, I can just use 14/3 romex rather than 14/2, and tie the switched hot coming off the sensor. I would be using LED bulbs, with considerably less power requirements than the fixtures are rated for.

Still interested if someone makes something that would work off the shelf, but this would be simple enough to put in.
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Old 04-27-2018, 11:28 PM
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I have several "paired" motion detectors. They are just the regular Heath Zenith units with all of the wires common (red to red, black to black etc). As long as they are fed from the same circuit they seem to work fine. Just remember the watt rating needs to be based on one of them. (typically 300w total lights)
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Old 04-28-2018, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by gfretwell View Post
I have several "paired" motion detectors. They are just the regular Heath Zenith units with all of the wires common (red to red, black to black etc). As long as they are fed from the same circuit they seem to work fine. Just remember the watt rating needs to be based on one of them. (typically 300w total lights)
what does the last sentence mean?
and is 300w an old style actuAL current rating or the led eqilavent watt rating
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Old 04-28-2018, 05:28 AM
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The red wire on most motion lights is for interconnect.
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Old 04-28-2018, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by edwardh1 View Post
what does the last sentence mean?
and is 300w an old style actuAL current rating or the led eqilavent watt rating
most/many traditional outside floodlights are rated for up to two 150W traditional (incandescent/halogen) reflector bulbs. The motion detector switch can therefore put out a maximum sustained current of 300W. Equivalent rating on LEDs has nothing to do with anything other than being an estimation of the brightness for people who do not understand the idea of lumens.

In my my case I would use 2 fixtures, each with their own motion sensor, and the switched outputs from both sensors would be tied together so that each sensor would trigger both fixtures. Obvious I would have to use bulbs of a much lower wattage to avoid overloading the corcuits. LED bulbs make that easy.
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Old 04-28-2018, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Alureing View Post
The red wire on most motion lights is for interconnect.
hmm. Never noticed that. Any particular brands you are aware of that have this?
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by autobaun70 View Post
Think I may have found a solution. Looks like I can use a pair of traditional motion sensor fixtures. On these the hot leg feeding the bulbs comes off of the motion sensor. Since I am wiring in the 2nd fixture, I can just use 14/3 romex rather than 14/2, and tie the switched hot coming off the sensor. I would be using LED bulbs, with considerably less power requirements than the fixtures are rated for.

Still interested if someone makes something that would work off the shelf, but this would be simple enough to put in.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't this only let you use one motion sensor? I assumed you wanted all the motion sensors to be hot, and light up all the lights around the house whenever one sensor tripped?
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Alureing View Post
The red wire on most motion lights is for interconnect.
yep
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Flot View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't this only let you use one motion sensor? I assumed you wanted all the motion sensors to be hot, and light up all the lights around the house whenever one sensor tripped?
Using 2 should be no issue. The switched side would be tied together. That way either sensor will make both fixtures turn on. In some cases both sensors may trigger, which should not be an issue. Fortunately just need to tie 2 specific fixtures, one of which I am adding. Access to both as easy, as they are going in the soffit on each corner of the garage. Big open attic over the garage.
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mikefloyd View Post
yep
is that common on most/all lights? I see no mention of it on any of the ones I’ve looked at so far.
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Flot View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't this only let you use one motion sensor? I assumed you wanted all the motion sensors to be hot, and light up all the lights around the house whenever one sensor tripped?
you would connect all the Blacks and reds in parallel. If any motion activated, all the lights come on.

most motion lights should have a red wire at least internally. I’ve done minor modifications to motion /photocell lights to achieve custom requests
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Old 04-28-2018, 12:12 PM
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Google X10 motion Sensor Floodlights. X10 is a powerline signaling protocol and you can get pretty fancy turning things on and off, like having any sensor turn on all lights, or switches around the house turning all on or off..

You assign each X10 device an address (like 12) There are switches on each device to select the address. You can then initiate an on 12 or off 12 from anywhere. Switches are not directly connected to the devices you are controlling, just need to be on a circuit fed from your panel Give all of the spotlights the same address and they all go on and off together. If you want to control things that are on opposite legs of your 220, you will need to add a signal bridge in your panel.pretty simple stuff once you understand it.

In a previous house I had a long drive that was difficult to see from the house. I installed a sensor near the drive to turn on the lights and ring a chime in the kitchen, like a door bell. Always knew we had visitors well before they got to the door. Dogs learned it quick and would always run to see who arrived.
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Old 04-28-2018, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MustaGotLost View Post
Google X10 motion Sensor Floodlights. X10 is a powerline signaling protocol and you can get pretty fancy turning things on and off, like having any sensor turn on all lights, or switches around the house turning all on or off..

You assign each X10 device an address (like 12) There are switches on each device to select the address. You can then initiate an on 12 or off 12 from anywhere. Switches are not directly connected to the devices you are controlling, just need to be on a circuit fed from your panel Give all of the spotlights the same address and they all go on and off together. If you want to control things that are on opposite legs of your 220, you will need to add a signal bridge in your panel.pretty simple stuff once you understand it.

In a previous house I had a long drive that was difficult to see from the house. I installed a sensor near the drive to turn on the lights and ring a chime in the kitchen, like a door bell. Always knew we had visitors well before they got to the door. Dogs learned it quick and would always run to see who arrived.
hmm. The interesting reading.

I see lots of potential for this stuff.
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Old 04-28-2018, 03:56 PM
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The red wire is actually the "switched" conductor in the motion head but I have never had a problem paralleling a couple together.
The 300w rating is based on current draw so if you are using LED or CFL you base that on the actual current draw. Just be aware if these use solid state switching, not a relay, CFLs and LEDs may not present enough load to shut off the "switch" and they may flash. One incandescent somewhere in that load path will fix that.
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