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Roofing a C-Can

Old 10-27-2017, 10:29 AM
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Default Roofing a C-Can

I'm in the process of establishing a new hunting camp and have recently purchased an 8x20 c-can for storage/workshop. I'd like to put a simple, tin roof with some overhang over it just to preserve the life of the can. The last thing I want to do is drill holes in the roof so I was thinking of some type of industrial glue to attach the wood joist directly to the top of the box. Then attaching the tin roof to the wood. Any thoughts or recommendation on the best glue for this application?
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:35 AM
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do you weld? Me and a buddy bought several 8x48 containers several years ago and his leaked in 2 spots. We did exactly what your drawing depicts except welded angle uprights down each side (one side higher for pitch similar to yours), 2x8 cross members, then metal roofing. Roofs made it through 5 hurricanes now....still good to go
Old 10-27-2017, 10:48 AM
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5200? I used the stuff to secure a Azec forward floor in my aluminum hulled rib that I didn't want to drill through and it made it through the season with everybody walking and standing on it to get on and off the dinghy and it shows no sign of letting go.
Old 10-27-2017, 10:50 AM
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sds - Yes I do weld and thought about that but didn't know if the roof was thick enough to weld...I guess it is, then. Doing that would take 3x's longer to do but would work, thanks.

Garett - Yes that's true too, but I would like to keep the 'water-tight' integrity of the can itself. If I'm following you correctly, you wouldn't secure the roof to the can itself?
Old 10-27-2017, 11:01 AM
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Get some of these, and weld plates to them. Then connect your roof frame to it the plates with lag bolts or through bolts. You can build the frame base from wood or steel, whatever will work better for you. The locking points used to lock containers to one another are the same top and bottom.

https://www.myteeproducts.com/shippi...xoCrscQAvD_BwE

If you can figure out a way to drop a piece of tin town each side of the container too, it will help keep it cooler during summer. Just have a 6" or so air gap between it and the container wall.
Old 10-27-2017, 11:57 AM
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Most of the c cans that you can buy are for sale because they are substandard - i.e. they have rust and they leak. They've reached the end of their service life in the over-seas shipping industry - hence, they are for sale. Have bought a bunch of them over the years and they're almost always leaky and ALWAYS have rust problems.

Get yourself some of the metal studs and such they use to build partitions (walls) inside large commercial buildings and use that for a frame for your roof. All that stuff is galvanized, screws together real easy and is relatively cheap. Will also probably last 10x longer than anything else in that application. You can weld it to the c can.
Old 10-27-2017, 03:09 PM
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More than one to skin a cat. I'll see what I have the easiest access to, then go from there. Thanks for the ideas
Old 10-27-2017, 03:17 PM
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You could build a pole barn over it but the cost will be greater.
Old 10-28-2017, 06:35 AM
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The outside edge is square tubing. I attached 2x4's by using self tapping screws into it. Used 10' sections of roof to give me a 1' overhang on each end. Lifting the roof gives you an air gap too which keeps the building cooler and and won't sweat as much.
Old 11-02-2017, 09:16 AM
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On to electrical...There is an old pole with a meter and 200A breaker box already near the site where I plan on putting the camp trailer (future home site). So I was going to use the existing box on the pole and come from that to a NEW 200A box ~80ft away and feed off of that as my main breaker panel. But the old box's breaker is shot. I disassembled the breaker and buss bars, hoping to keep the box on the pole and just replace the internals...are there parts available for this? I can't seem to locate them.
I'm trying to avoid replacing the box as its 20" tall and every replacement that I've run across is ~26". I could replace the box, but I'd have to cut my conduit to make room for the additional 6" - hence is why I'd like to replace only the breaker and buss bar if possible. Unless there's a 200A box that's 20"tall but I can't locate that either. Any thought? Thanks
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Old 11-03-2017, 05:12 PM
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Glue down 1-2" polyiso then put TPO over it wit a termination bar a few inches down on the square tubing
Old 11-03-2017, 06:13 PM
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get a good copper bus bar set up this time even if you have to buy the whole box ,
remove the guts and then just screw the new into the old box

those aluminum busses suck

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