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Sealing/ painting garage floor

Old 05-17-2017, 04:52 PM
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Default Sealing/ painting garage floor

Built a 30 X 50 building, having the floor finished super smooth we would like ideas for sealer

Or epoxy paint.

Floor will be sitting for a month before applying the finish.

Thanks
Old 05-17-2017, 06:38 PM
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There have been a couple recent threads on this. I let my 28 x 46 slab cure for 90 days before coating. I used the Rustoleum garage floor epoxy kits from Lowes/HD. Used almost 3 gallons. I chose light grey and did not use the color chips. It's been down 18 months, sliding tools and lumber across it doesn't seem to do any damage. I'm sure you can spend more but this worked for me.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:57 PM
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We have been debating doing this on our garage floor and had a local company give us a bid of $2,650 to do our 2 car garage. I thought that was way out of line and was going to see what it cost to do it ourselves but I didn't do it yet.

Buoy Scout- How much did it end up costing you in total to do it yourself? I read that prepping is the most important part of the whole process, my question is how do you know if you prepped the floor correctly? If you had to do it over again would you do it yourself again? Was it worth the expense and effort?
Old 05-17-2017, 06:58 PM
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I like this shop ^^^^^^^^^^. Nice.
Old 05-17-2017, 07:11 PM
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http://www.garagejournal.com/
Old 05-17-2017, 07:59 PM
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I have an old house that was built in 1942. Original garage slab with usual cracks. Multiple layers of various cheap paints.

Hired a professional painter (does garages on the side) and he and helper spent some time grinding and prepping the garage floor. Then put on two coats of epoxy based Sherwin Williams product.

Garage floor looks very good....except.. for tires on both cars pulling up the paint!!!!! 8 spot's with multiple pock marks pulled up beneath each tire. Worse, of course, under the pickup, less bad under the lighter lexus 350.

This started to happen within three or four months. I purchased a rotary sander (40grit) attachment and put on my grinder and took the paint down to the concrete. Painter is standing by the job and coming by tomorrow to see the issue. He'll fix it.

I suspect it's my old concrete and previous years of paint and abuse, but be careful with the product you use. I think my product was Sherwin Williams 2 part 8100. My floor was no where near Bouy Scout's floor in flatness and quality. Hot tire pickup is a real problem.

I'll follow up after the repairs are done and we'll see how long it lasts.

Rest of the floor is in real good shape.
Old 05-17-2017, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dssmith View Post
I have an old house that was built in 1942. Original garage slab with usual cracks. Multiple layers of various cheap paints.

Hired a professional painter (does garages on the side) and he and helper spent some time grinding and prepping the garage floor. The put on two coats of epoxy based Sherwin Williams product.

Garage floor looks very good....except.. for tires on both cars pulling up the paint!!!!! 8 spot's with multiple pock marks pulled up beneath each tire. Worse, of course, under the pickup, less bad under the lighter lexus 350.

This started to happen within three or four months. I purchased a rotary sander (40grit) attachment and put on my grinder and took the paint down to the concrete. Painter is standing by the job and coming by tomorrow to see the issue. He'll fix it.

I suspect it's my old concrete and previous years of paint and abuse, but be careful with the product you use. I think my product was Sherwin Williams 2 part 8100. My floor was no where near Bouy Scout's floor in flatness and quality. Hot tire pickup is a real problem.

I'll follow up after the repairs are done and we'll see how long it lasts.

Rest of the floor is in real good shape.
My painter warned me about warm tires, he said not to turn your tires on the epoxy after they have been warm.

I had the silica put in for traction, which is needed, but it makes it a huge pain to mop. Ripped my mop up.
Old 05-18-2017, 06:19 AM
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I had my garage floor done before I moved in the house. 800+ sq ft and it cost about $2500. Floor was about 1.5 yrs old at the time. It's been ~16 years and it's been great. No spots have come up, no scratches or flakes and we park all kinds of things there. I also use an engine hoist and floor jack with metal wheels.

My only concern is that it is SLIPPERY WHEN WET, especially with snow or ice. I eventually taped down outdoor carpet around the two areas we park the cars in, so you can walk on the carpet getting in and out of the cars. That has worked great too. I would put more non-slip in the compound if I did it again.

I did a basement floor by myself years later. Cost ~100 and looked great and worked great. If I did a garage again (as long as it wasn't TOO big), I'd do it myself. Prep is everything, just like in any paint or varnish job. Use the etch, RINSE VERY WELL and LET DRY FULLY. If a big area, then DEFINITELY GET HELP, as you need to apply pretty quickly because it is an epoxy and will 'set' after a certain amount of time depending on temperature. Mix in batches and have someone else do the edging and someone do the main rolling. Pour the mix on the floor and spread. Use golf cleats so you don't have to worry about stepping on a finished area.
Old 05-18-2017, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by km1125 View Post
I had my garage floor done before I moved in the house. 800+ sq ft and it cost about $2500. Floor was about 1.5 yrs old at the time. It's been ~16 years and it's been great. No spots have come up, no scratches or flakes and we park all kinds of things there. I also use an engine hoist and floor jack with metal wheels.

My only concern is that it is SLIPPERY WHEN WET, especially with snow or ice. I eventually taped down outdoor carpet around the two areas we park the cars in, so you can walk on the carpet getting in and out of the cars. That has worked great too. I would put more non-slip in the compound if I did it again.

I did a basement floor by myself years later. Cost ~100 and looked great and worked great. If I did a garage again (as long as it wasn't TOO big), I'd do it myself. Prep is everything, just like in any paint or varnish job. Use the etch, RINSE VERY WELL and LET DRY FULLY. If a big area, then DEFINITELY GET HELP, as you need to apply pretty quickly because it is an epoxy and will 'set' after a certain amount of time depending on temperature. Mix in batches and have someone else do the edging and someone do the main rolling. Pour the mix on the floor and spread. Use golf cleats so you don't have to worry about stepping on a finished area.
Why not put down adhesive backed traction strips in place of the carpets? I suspect they would power wash off if you wanted to replace them later.


I know it adds to the cost, but why not use the garage tiles where the wheels ride? if a floor is in good shape I would personally just use a good sealer. Much cheaper and you can always epoxy later if you really feel the need. You cannot realistically un-epoxy an epoxied floor.
Old 05-18-2017, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by BACKTOTHESEA View Post
Why not put down adhesive backed traction strips in place of the carpets? I suspect they would power wash off if you wanted to replace them later.
I didn't really think of that, but it is a large area to cover. Figure about 200 sq ft of the total, so it would have taken quite a bit of traction strips. (probably wouldn't need to do all of the 200 sq ft through).

It actually came out looking pretty cool. Both the normal car parking spaces were outlined in matching carpet, as was the walk and steps to the door into the house. The other half of the garage was just the epoxy paint.
Old 05-18-2017, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by km1125 View Post
I didn't really think of that, but it is a large area to cover. Figure about 200 sq ft of the total, so it would have taken quite a bit of traction strips. (probably wouldn't need to do all of the 200 sq ft through).

It actually came out looking pretty cool. Both the normal car parking spaces were outlined in matching carpet, as was the walk and steps to the door into the house. The other half of the garage was just the epoxy paint.
if you want to at least look at some options here is a link I found.


https://www.americanfloormats.com/sa...pe-all-colors/
Old 05-18-2017, 01:45 PM
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Some great suggestions,

how well does epoxy adhere to a smooth finish ??
Old 05-18-2017, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RussH View Post
We have been debating doing this on our garage floor and had a local company give us a bid of $2,650 to do our 2 car garage. I thought that was way out of line and was going to see what it cost to do it ourselves but I didn't do it yet.

Buoy Scout- How much did it end up costing you in total to do it yourself? I read that prepping is the most important part of the whole process, my question is how do you know if you prepped the floor correctly? If you had to do it over again would you do it yourself again? Was it worth the expense and effort?
My garage floor was troweled quite smooth. I used the acid wash that comes in the Rustoleum kit. Followed directions in the kit. I washed and etched the floor one day, then waited a week before applying the paint. You need a large floor squeegee to push the water out during the etching and rinsing process.

I had two 2.5 car garage kits, plus a 1 car garage kit. That's a total of 5 gallons of paint. I used a little over 4 gallons--so I had most of the last gallon left over. Cost was under $500 for the three kits at HD. IIRC.

I bought a wide (18 inch?) roller with an extension handle. Short nap solvent resistant roller covers. Mixed a gallon, cut in around the entire perimeter, then began in a back corner, keeping a wet edge, mixing gallons one at a time, and working quickly to get it all down before it set up. I did this before I installed the heat pump, so I had a couple small window A/C units running during the painting. I wore a respirator.
Old 05-18-2017, 10:39 PM
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https://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...-floor-coating

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...ed-clear-glaze
Old 05-19-2017, 02:22 AM
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I used the Rustoleum product on my garage and basement floors. Works well and easy to use.

Very important: follow the directions. Especially the part about mix the paint and let it set 20 minutes before applying. If you don't follow those directions, you will have a mess.
Old 05-19-2017, 09:49 AM
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Sherwin Williams HS1000 two part high solids epoxy then topcoated with Sherwin Williams Rexthane polyurethane. I did mechanically and chemically etch my 15 year old floor. All in about $700, and a weeks work due to drying time between recoating for my 250sq ft garage. I have been more than happy with the results
Old 05-19-2017, 09:56 AM
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FWIW, the guys at Sherwin Williams were exceptionally knowledgeable about their products and talked me out of using their garage floor coating kit when I explained my intended use.
Old 05-19-2017, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Buoy Scout View Post
My garage floor was troweled quite smooth. I used the acid wash that comes in the Rustoleum kit. Followed directions in the kit. I washed and etched the floor one day, then waited a week before applying the paint. You need a large floor squeegee to push the water out during the etching and rinsing process.

I had two 2.5 car garage kits, plus a 1 car garage kit. That's a total of 5 gallons of paint. I used a little over 4 gallons--so I had most of the last gallon left over. Cost was under $500 for the three kits at HD. IIRC.

I bought a wide (18 inch?) roller with an extension handle. Short nap solvent resistant roller covers. Mixed a gallon, cut in around the entire perimeter, then began in a back corner, keeping a wet edge, mixing gallons one at a time, and working quickly to get it all down before it set up. I did this before I installed the heat pump, so I had a couple small window A/C units running during the painting. I wore a respirator.

Thanks for the info!!
Old 05-19-2017, 11:19 AM
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[QUOTE=hudiefloats;10287821]FWIW, the guys at Sherwin Williams were exceptionally knowledgeable about their products and talked me out of using their garage floor coating kit when I explained my intended use.


Did they explained why ?
Old 05-19-2017, 12:18 PM
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Followup from my hot tire pickup issue.

Painter was by yesterday. Said the tire pickup is not supposed to happen. Reported it was his fourth recent job with Sherwin Williams that has this problem. Vows never to use their product again.

My problem now is that he will "fix" my 8 tire spots (Car and Truck) with same Sherwin Williams product. I guess I will have to live with the problem again and again.

I ground down each spot bare to concrete and acid etched washed each spot. When the tires pull up the paint, I will know it's not the prep.

I suggest you avoid Sherwin Williams Armorseal 8100 waterbased epoxy.

How do you know this stuff in advance??

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