Notices

Boat lift question.

Old 03-31-2017, 11:49 AM
  #1  
THT SponsorCaptains Club Member
THT sponsor
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin And Marathon,Fl
Posts: 8,498
Default Boat lift question.

I am having a 14K Lifetime elevator boat lift installed in a few weeks, It is used but got a killer deal on it. It came with everything but the remotes. The lift has two motors and has a Tec 2 control box. I know when I looked at the lift it had a 28' Grady sitting on it, and you could control the bunk to tilt, if I am using the right term. Say you want to raise the bow for drainage you can do so.

I am having an electrician wire it. The unit has a Seco-larm receiver that controls 2 motors. My thinking is I only need a one button remote, that would operate both motors at the same time. If I want to tilt it, I would do this on the dock with the toggle switch. I called Seco and they gave me a list of 15 different remotes that are compatible. from 1 button to 4 buttons. I want to order the right one so am I on the right track here?
Attached Images      

Last edited by mikeloew; 03-31-2017 at 12:44 PM.
mikeloew is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 01:28 PM
  #2  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: SE Mich and Tequesta, FL.
Posts: 477
Default

I would go with the two button.....what goes up, must come down 😉
You are correct about using the toggle on the lift to adjust the boat angle for drainage. Once you have it to your liking, you won't adjust it much after that.
40 Palms is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 01:52 PM
  #3  
THT SponsorCaptains Club Member
THT sponsor
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin And Marathon,Fl
Posts: 8,498
Default

Originally Posted by 40 Palms View Post
I would go with the two button.....what goes up, must come down 😉
You are correct about using the toggle on the lift to adjust the boat angle for drainage. Once you have it to your liking, you won't adjust it much after that.
LOL good point, by the way, how do you stop it? I have never had a boat lift, nor have I ever used one.
mikeloew is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 02:21 PM
  #4  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 920
Default

some will have an auto stop with limit switch- controls how high or low it will go- others you either have to hold down the button or flip the switch at the desired height
folly basser is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 02:34 PM
  #5  
THT SponsorCaptains Club Member
THT sponsor
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin And Marathon,Fl
Posts: 8,498
Default

Originally Posted by folly basser View Post
some will have an auto stop with limit switch- controls how high or low it will go- others you either have to hold down the button or flip the switch at the desired height
I assume you mean you have to hold the remote button to keep it moving when you let go the motors stop? So in my pic switch, 1 could be set to lower and switch 2 set to raise or reverse the motors?
mikeloew is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 02:37 PM
  #6  
Admirals Club
THT sponsor
 
williamwallus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: SWFL, Midwest
Posts: 3,240
Default

Originally Posted by mikeloew View Post
I assume you mean you have to hold the remote button to keep it moving when you let go the motors stop?
usually you just hit it once, some will have auto stop others won't

you def want 2 buttons 1 for each motor

4 I assume would be 1 up 1 down for each motor
williamwallus is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 02:42 PM
  #7  
THT SponsorCaptains Club Member
THT sponsor
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin And Marathon,Fl
Posts: 8,498
Default

Originally Posted by williamwallus View Post
usually you just hit it once, some will have auto stop others won't

you def want 2 buttons 1 for each motor

4 I assume would be 1 up 1 down for each motor
Thanks guys, that is where I am getting confused, I guess depending on how its wired I though one contactor might pull both motors at the same time. I don't think I have auto stop as I did not see any micro switches.
mikeloew is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 03:55 PM
  #8  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pompano Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 4,917
Default

I think you would want to 2 button remote. One button for up, and one button for down. All the leveling is done from the dock.
ndb8fxe is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 06:24 PM
  #9  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: somewhere over there
Posts: 3,999
Default

Just to be sure about remotes, I kill the power when I am done for the day.

Nothing like somebody on the same remote channel.
nccoaster is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 06:48 PM
  #10  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: SE Mich and Tequesta, FL.
Posts: 477
Default

Mike, I'm no lift expert, but have had three and all were two motor lifts. Two buttons- one for up and other for down. Must keep button depressed to run the motor. Both motors worked off same button. The toggle switch on the electrical panel is used to shut down one motor so you can adjust angle with remote switch. No need for 4 buttons. Don't overthink it.

Brett
40 Palms is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:48 PM
  #11  
THT SponsorCaptains Club Member
THT sponsor
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin And Marathon,Fl
Posts: 8,498
Default

Originally Posted by 40 Palms View Post
Mike, I'm no lift expert, but have had three and all were two motor lifts. Two buttons- one for up and other for down. Must keep button depressed to run the motor. Both motors worked off same button. The toggle switch on the electrical panel is used to shut down one motor so you can adjust angle with remote switch. No need for 4 buttons. Don't overthink it.

Brett
Thanks, that is what I was thinking but never owning one I have no clue. I just ordered the 2 button remotes, they are cheap enough so if I am wrong so be it. I know when I go down the electrician will educate me, if right I will have the remotes handy.
mikeloew is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 06:07 AM
  #12  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South Florida
Posts: 9,144
Default

Just some lift basics - that's not the same model controller I have on my elevator but would not expect major differences.

My remote has up and down.

You hold the button in as long as you want the lift to go up or down. Limit switches can be problematic, and important to note that how far "down" you want will depend on the tide, as well as how far up you might want, depending on if you're loading/unloading or leaving the boat up for a while.

To level, my lift box has a simple momentary toggle switch - pushing down the toggle interrupts the electricity to one motor, so that holding the toggle and pressing up/down on the remote will only move the aft bunk. That way I can level. I level the boat almost every time I use the lift, as I like to tilt it back a fair amount to allow water to drain.

GEM Remotes does most of the lift control boxes around here, their website may have more details and general info for you.

That's a pretty good looking lift.
Flot is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 06:53 AM
  #13  
THT SponsorCaptains Club Member
THT sponsor
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin And Marathon,Fl
Posts: 8,498
Default

Originally Posted by Flot View Post
Just some lift basics - that's not the same model controller I have on my elevator but would not expect major differences.

My remote has up and down.

You hold the button in as long as you want the lift to go up or down. Limit switches can be problematic, and important to note that how far "down" you want will depend on the tide, as well as how far up you might want, depending on if you're loading/unloading or leaving the boat up for a while.

To level, my lift box has a simple momentary toggle switch - pushing down the toggle interrupts the electricity to one motor, so that holding the toggle and pressing up/down on the remote will only move the aft bunk. That way I can level. I level the boat almost every time I use the lift, as I like to tilt it back a fair amount to allow water to drain.

GEM Remotes does most of the lift control boxes around here, their website may have more details and general info for you.

That's a pretty good looking lift.
Thanks for the great explanation. I could not pass it up, the guy sold it to me for $1000.
Luckily I applied for my permits a few years back and had everything but my local permit. I got it 7 days before the fed permits expired.
mikeloew is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 07:31 AM
  #14  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: SE Mich and Tequesta, FL.
Posts: 477
Default

Mike, a little tip for you.......mark the minimum water level you need to load your boat on the lift. I do it by putting a black zip tie on the PVC guide post. This allows you to know how far down to lower your lift regardless of tide level. Comes in handy when you have someone else on the boat running the remote when your busy with the boat controls. Just tell them to lower it til the zip tie is in the water.

Brett
40 Palms is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 07:36 AM
  #15  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South Florida
Posts: 9,144
Default

Originally Posted by 40 Palms View Post
Mike, a little tip for you.......mark the minimum water level you need to load your boat on the lift. I do it by putting a black zip tie on the PVC guide post. This allows you to know how far down to lower your lift regardless of tide level. Comes in handy when you have someone else on the boat running the remote when your busy with the boat controls. Just tell them to lower it til the zip tie is in the water.

Brett
Similarly, take some electrical tape and mark on your CABLE where you'll be at 6-8" before the cradle hits the bottom of your canal. If the cradle hits the ground and you keep pressing the down button, the cable will slowly unspool, cross on itself, etc. It isn't the end of the world if this happens, but you want to avoid it and it can take 10-15 mins of cursing at it to get it wound back up correctly. (not that it has ever happened to me)

1k is a steal for that, it should be worth 5 at least. Hell it is probably worth more than that in raw aluminum.

Don't forget to put new zincs on it. And if the beams that go into the ground aren't in excellent shape when removed, don't be afraid to buy new ones, you'll still be way ahead of the game.
Flot is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 09:59 AM
  #16  
THT SponsorCaptains Club Member
THT sponsor
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin And Marathon,Fl
Posts: 8,498
Default

Thanks again guys for the tips.
mikeloew is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 10:28 AM
  #17  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 7,214
Default

They make a doodad that goes on the fixed end of the cable (double hauled lift) that takes up the slack when the cradle bottoms out. In places where you may need all the depth you can get it is a necessary option. It is basically a weight that stops at the top when the cable is tight and pulls the bitter end down when it gets loose.
gfretwell is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 12:29 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Calabash,NC
Posts: 260
Default

take the Tek..toss it in the trash, buy a GEM.
marine4030 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread