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Any Hardwood Floor Refinishers?

Old 11-28-2016, 05:12 PM
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Default Any Hardwood Floor Refinishers?

I have what I believe to be 3/4" Oak that could use a refinish job. The floor is in great shape other than the finish. There does not need to be any replacing prior to refinishing. I have talked with a great guy who has done this type of work for 30 years. He is retired now but pretty much walked me through how he used to to it. My question is can this be a DIY project. I am handy and have laid plenty of pre-finished floors, ceramic, stone etc but never had the chance to do/learn refinish hardwood. Here are the steps that he told me

Day 1-2 Sand, fill holes (have 3 holes where cable was ran up through the subfloor)
Day 3 Stain with Duraseal stain
Day 4 Bona Polyurethane coat
Day 5 Bona Polyurethane coat
Day 6 Bona Polyurethane coat

Buff after each polyurethane coat prior to the next. I was considering renting the sanding equipment from a friend who owns a tool rental business and tackling this project. I have about 1000 square feet with plenty of help. What are your thoughts. Looks to be approx $3,000 to have it done. I would like to put in some sweat equity if possible. Thanks
Old 11-28-2016, 05:25 PM
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You can rent the equipment (Home Depot) and do it all yourself, the most tedious part is the poly at the end, FYI super quick drying is NOT your friend..also do not go high gloss...

I did a small landing and put wood down on my stairs. I will redo the clear coat when I am all finished with the other projects.

Let me know if you would like a sweet deal on white oak trowlable putty!!!

I have 3.5 gallons I no longer need!!!


John
Old 11-28-2016, 06:11 PM
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Thanks Jon. Is the poly hard to use? I figured I would start in my spare bedroom that is never used and see how it goes.
Old 11-28-2016, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MedicalManagement View Post
Thanks Jon. Is the poly hard to use? I figured I would start in my spare bedroom that is never used and see how it goes.
No its not hard to apply, just keep a wet edge and use standard dry. Water based is easier on the sinuses...

Start in a corner opposite from the door and work it backwards. Sand and dust, then dust again.

The super fast drying pulled fibers out of my applicator and that is what left fibers in my finish...

You Tube is also a great resource.

John
Old 11-28-2016, 06:18 PM
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I did my entire house about 1200 sq ft. Materials and sander cost me about $750. I used a water based product made by rustoleum. I wouldn't fret on filling the holes. I will say the water based made my floors a lot lighter than they were. I used 5 coats. Sanding with fine grit and vacuuming between coats. The water based stuff will raise the grain but don't let that scare you. I took my time and watched every video I could find.
Old 11-28-2016, 07:12 PM
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I flip houses and do a good bit of the trades myself with my employees and we sub out refinishing floors. Take that for what its worth. Hardwood floors, sheetrock, and roofing I don't touch.
Old 11-28-2016, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Wavehight View Post
I flip houses and do a good bit of the trades myself with my employees and we sub out refinishing floors. Take that for what its worth. Hardwood floors, sheetrock, and roofing I don't touch.
X2.

I have a few hardwood floor nailers and probably installed 10k ft2 myself and refinished about 1/2 that amount. It sucks and unless you do it every day the finish will not be perfect.

I now use my fingers and dial. My guy can bang out installing 1500ft2 in a day.
$1.25 to install
$1.40 to finish/refinish.

The only thing worse is hanging and finishing Sheetrock.
Old 11-29-2016, 03:19 AM
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I agree with bjm above. It's just not "enjoyable work". I've done quite a few in my business, have my own sanders, but now sub-out the floor refinishing. I only used oil base polyurethane as I feel it gives a clearer,deeper finish. Gloss or semi finish is personal preference,however semigloss poly is gloss poly with flattening agent added and is a little less durable .
Good luck!
Old 11-29-2016, 04:07 AM
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You could do it yourself, but would not reccomend it. It is just one of those things better left to someone who does it for a lving. Just like finishing and mudding drywall
Old 11-29-2016, 04:10 AM
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Pay someone.
Old 11-29-2016, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by twobyfour View Post
you could do it yourself, but would not reccomend it. It is just one of those things better left to someone who does it for a lving. Just like finishing and mudding drywall
x 2.
Old 11-29-2016, 09:44 AM
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I did1600sqft, remove carpet, pad, staples - sand and refinish.
It is a project you will only do once.
Have a pile of extra sanding belts, sander must keep moving.
Worst part is sanding edges and corners. Get the commercial rental edger and have a few square, round, pointed orbitals on stand by.

If you have quarter round/shoe molding, pull it up. Makes sanding the edges much easier.

Expect to get poly on base boards etc. Either tape or expect to repaint/finish after installing shoe molding.

Thin coats, some poly allows you to lay 2 or three coats after an amount of time without sanding between coats. Example: Lay 2 coats, sand, lay final coat.
Old 11-29-2016, 10:11 AM
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I tried DIY on a house we flipped. Spent 3-400 before I gave up and paid someone to finish it. Rented a sander from a local rental place and found out later it wasnt working right. Wasted plenty of paper. Sanding is the hard part. Found a local guy who gave me a deal since i did so much sanding, although he had to go back over it with his good machine. $1000 for a 1000sq ft and the high gloss looked awesome dont let anyone tell you different. Looks wet even when its dry
Old 11-29-2016, 10:16 AM
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My father owned a floor refinishing company and my older sister and I worked for him a few years but about 35 years ago. If you are tight on money you could do it but I personally would pay even though I know how its done. Drum sander is time consuming but fairly easy if floors are level. Edger can get away from you so practice in a closet. I always sat on a milk crate to save my knees and back. Scraping corners is a pain and I think the worst part. Once the floor is sanded it was socks only. We would hand sand, sweep and clean with rag and mineral spirits and coat with oil based polyurethane and let dry overnight. DO NOT SHAKE POLY URETHANE (your finish will be full of tiny air bubbles) stir only and apply with quality oil brush. Do the same thing hand sanding and cleaning between coats for total of three coats. That will be enough with oil based product. Also I would use a satin finish it doesn't show wear of flaws in the prep or finish like gloss does.
Old 11-29-2016, 12:57 PM
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Thanks for all of the responses guys. I am still not sure what route I am going to take but I will def keep this thread updated with pics
Old 11-29-2016, 01:19 PM
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Carpenter/ builder here. Sub it out. We install lots of hardwood.

It drives me crazy that a 19 year old kid can get a perfect finish in 1/4 of the time I could get it acceptable.
Thing is, his grandfather owns the company.
Old 11-29-2016, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Wavehight View Post
I flip houses and do a good bit of the trades myself with my employees and we sub out refinishing floors. Take that for what its worth. Hardwood floors, sheetrock, and roofing I don't touch.
Same city same scenario same opinion.

Running that big sander isn't easy for a smart guy that does it once every four years. It's apiece of cake for the stoner that does it forty hours a week.

I pay $2.25 a foot for a perfect finish here it's a no brainer to me.
Old 11-30-2016, 05:13 AM
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$1.25-$1.50 per ft here. Not worth the hassle. Let someone else do it.
Old 11-30-2016, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Double tyme View Post
Same city same scenario same opinion.
PM sent.
Old 11-30-2016, 05:41 AM
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Spend a few cents more per square foot go with the Bona Traffic HD finish. Its a 2 part finish that wears much better. The satin finish looks great over a dark walnut stain.

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