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How to REMOVE 5200

Old 10-10-2016, 03:02 PM
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Default How to REMOVE 5200

I bought a commode that had been a display model. Seems that they glue lids on tanks, and this one looks like 5200 was used, and the guy that did it did a complete ring-around, including the rolled edges. Knife or box-cutter can't get to the rolled edges inside the tank.

If heat won't hurt ceramic/porcelain, then will a good heat gun soften the stuff without damaging the tank? How about a propane torch?

This is one of those touchless flush toilets, so how far along the surface will heat travel (don't want to hurt the flush sensor)
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Old 10-10-2016, 03:36 PM
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Hot water will crack a tank. What do you think a torch will do. Tank is worthless.
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Old 10-10-2016, 03:41 PM
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I've had decent luck using orange oil based cleaner. You have to be patient. Put some on. Let it sit overnight. Repeat. You can also use a commercial product called Anti-Bond. It's fairly expensive.
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Old 10-10-2016, 03:52 PM
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Do a search
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Old 10-10-2016, 04:40 PM
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soldering iron
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Old 10-10-2016, 04:47 PM
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Debond!
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:57 PM
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If you can rig the toilet up so you can get pressure on the lid, the adhesive will probably let go after some time. Maybe bolt the toilet down and cut a 2 x 4 to just fit under the edge. tap in a thin wedge to apply some pressure. Walk away. Come back and give it a couple of light taps. Walk away. Repeat as needed.

I've removed tons of parts off boat that were sealed with 5200 using this method. Engines, engine brackets, leaning posts, transducers, hinges, cleats, you name it, I've probably removed it. With no damage. Steady pressure is the key.

Follow up with Debond type product to clean off residue.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tunanut View Post
Debond!
Probably your best option..
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:26 PM
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You sure it is 5200? Could be at least several other products.
Np1, sikoflex ,etc
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:39 PM
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Here's a helpful article on removing 5200.
I have personally used Debind and it worked great.

http://www.boatingmag.com/marine-sol...ng-5200#page-3
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by north coast View Post
You sure it is 5200? Could be at least several other products.
Np1, sikoflex ,etc
Not sure at all; it is clear and bonds tight. Scoring with a knife all the way to the ridge, and almost zero movement.

Can't pressurize it because there are two large gaps in the tank/lid junction.

If I have to get a new tank/lid, then it will wipe out the savings I got on the sale, so best to return the item to the store.

Debond is a possible plan, though, so might try some of that first.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by INCORRIGIBLE View Post
Here's a helpful article on removing 5200.
I have personally used Debind and it worked great.

http://www.boatingmag.com/marine-sol...ng-5200#page-3
After reading this link's message, seems that anything we try include scoring the bond, and then applying our goo. Not going to work on things that can't be scored, like the edged toilet tank lid.

That suggests that fire might work, and that nothing else is possible??? There is no chance of a pressure build-up since air space is part of the structure.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:53 PM
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Concentrated Hydrogen Peroxide. Not the stuff you buy in a drug store, you need the pure stuff from Fisher Scientific.

It will destroy any elastomer except Kalrez (Teflon/Viton hybrid) and it will soften that. 5200 is a moisture cure urethane and HYPOX will annihilate it.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:03 AM
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Outstanding. Quick search shows 35% products; is that what's known as concentrated?
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:23 AM
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OP said the adhesive is clear. That rules out 5200. More likely marine silicone or similar product. If that's the case, the best bet is to continue scoring until it releases. Unless you have some chemical industry background, you'd be wise to avoid using the 35% hydrogen peroxide.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:44 AM
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Was the display model THAT good of a deal? Seems like after all this, there will be some residual affects to the parts..........
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by D.M.D. View Post
Was the display model THAT good of a deal? Seems like after all this, there will be some residual affects to the parts..........
To Cobia's question, I can't score any more than I have because there are rolled edges on the lid that prevent the blade from entering. All scoring that can be done, has been done.

The deal has just become a challenge; nothing more. Here's what I'm working with:

https://www.build.com/american-stand...161011122335:s

I have $50 invested in it, so worst case scenario is that I cut the lid off with a grinder and spend another $50 on a new lid....or get the concentrated HyPox for about the same money.

Why would I want to be concerned about using ConHyPox without having a chemical background?
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobia 217 View Post
OP said the adhesive is clear. That rules out 5200. More likely marine silicone or similar product. If that's the case, the best bet is to continue scoring until it releases. Unless you have some chemical industry background, you'd be wise to avoid using the 35% hydrogen peroxide.
X2. It can be trouble. It causes burns pretty much instantaneously, and the oxidized organic (urethane) has the potential to ignite spontaneously if it is not rinsed/diluted with water. Also, there are issues with its decomposition to water and oxygen due to storage time/temp or container contamination that will generate pressure in the container.

If nothing else, at least read the Material Safety Data Sheet.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bamaboy473 View Post
To Cobia's question, I can't score any more than I have because there are rolled edges on the lid that prevent the blade from entering. All scoring that can be done, has been done.

Can you thread a length of braided fishing line through? Then work it back and forth along the bead.

Why would I want to be concerned about using ConHyPox without having a chemical background?
35% peroxide is a very strong oxidizer and a drop or less in your eyes, either by splashing or incidental contact, can leave you blind. If you spill any on anything combustible (paper, wood, fabric) and it has a chance to dry, it can potentially auto-ignite. If you decide to go this route, just be sure to educate yourself as to the hazards involved. Do a google search for it and when you find a source, read the SDS.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:20 AM
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Can you work a wire pipe cutter under the lid somewhere. Saw it off?
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