How to REMOVE 5200
#1
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 15,727

I bought a commode that had been a display model. Seems that they glue lids on tanks, and this one looks like 5200 was used, and the guy that did it did a complete ring-around, including the rolled edges. Knife or box-cutter can't get to the rolled edges inside the tank.
If heat won't hurt ceramic/porcelain, then will a good heat gun soften the stuff without damaging the tank? How about a propane torch?
This is one of those touchless flush toilets, so how far along the surface will heat travel (don't want to hurt the flush sensor)
If heat won't hurt ceramic/porcelain, then will a good heat gun soften the stuff without damaging the tank? How about a propane torch?
This is one of those touchless flush toilets, so how far along the surface will heat travel (don't want to hurt the flush sensor)
#3
Senior Member

Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Marco Island, FL
Posts: 3,369

I've had decent luck using orange oil based cleaner. You have to be patient. Put some on. Let it sit overnight. Repeat. You can also use a commercial product called Anti-Bond. It's fairly expensive.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: North Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 8,486

If you can rig the toilet up so you can get pressure on the lid, the adhesive will probably let go after some time. Maybe bolt the toilet down and cut a 2 x 4 to just fit under the edge. tap in a thin wedge to apply some pressure. Walk away. Come back and give it a couple of light taps. Walk away. Repeat as needed.
I've removed tons of parts off boat that were sealed with 5200 using this method. Engines, engine brackets, leaning posts, transducers, hinges, cleats, you name it, I've probably removed it. With no damage. Steady pressure is the key.
Follow up with Debond type product to clean off residue.
I've removed tons of parts off boat that were sealed with 5200 using this method. Engines, engine brackets, leaning posts, transducers, hinges, cleats, you name it, I've probably removed it. With no damage. Steady pressure is the key.
Follow up with Debond type product to clean off residue.
#10

Here's a helpful article on removing 5200.
I have personally used Debind and it worked great.
http://www.boatingmag.com/marine-sol...ng-5200#page-3
I have personally used Debind and it worked great.
http://www.boatingmag.com/marine-sol...ng-5200#page-3
#11
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 15,727

Can't pressurize it because there are two large gaps in the tank/lid junction.
If I have to get a new tank/lid, then it will wipe out the savings I got on the sale, so best to return the item to the store.
Debond is a possible plan, though, so might try some of that first.
#12
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 15,727

Here's a helpful article on removing 5200.
I have personally used Debind and it worked great.
http://www.boatingmag.com/marine-sol...ng-5200#page-3
I have personally used Debind and it worked great.
http://www.boatingmag.com/marine-sol...ng-5200#page-3
That suggests that fire might work, and that nothing else is possible??? There is no chance of a pressure build-up since air space is part of the structure.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ramseur & Newport,NC
Posts: 146

Concentrated Hydrogen Peroxide. Not the stuff you buy in a drug store, you need the pure stuff from Fisher Scientific.
It will destroy any elastomer except Kalrez (Teflon/Viton hybrid) and it will soften that. 5200 is a moisture cure urethane and HYPOX will annihilate it.
It will destroy any elastomer except Kalrez (Teflon/Viton hybrid) and it will soften that. 5200 is a moisture cure urethane and HYPOX will annihilate it.
#15
Admirals Club 

Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 9,059

OP said the adhesive is clear. That rules out 5200. More likely marine silicone or similar product. If that's the case, the best bet is to continue scoring until it releases. Unless you have some chemical industry background, you'd be wise to avoid using the 35% hydrogen peroxide.
#17
Senior Member

Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 15,727

The deal has just become a challenge; nothing more. Here's what I'm working with:
https://www.build.com/american-stand...161011122335:s
I have $50 invested in it, so worst case scenario is that I cut the lid off with a grinder and spend another $50 on a new lid....or get the concentrated HyPox for about the same money.
Why would I want to be concerned about using ConHyPox without having a chemical background?
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 243

OP said the adhesive is clear. That rules out 5200. More likely marine silicone or similar product. If that's the case, the best bet is to continue scoring until it releases. Unless you have some chemical industry background, you'd be wise to avoid using the 35% hydrogen peroxide.
If nothing else, at least read the Material Safety Data Sheet.
#19
Admirals Club 

Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 9,059

To Cobia's question, I can't score any more than I have because there are rolled edges on the lid that prevent the blade from entering. All scoring that can be done, has been done.
Can you thread a length of braided fishing line through? Then work it back and forth along the bead.
Why would I want to be concerned about using ConHyPox without having a chemical background?
Can you thread a length of braided fishing line through? Then work it back and forth along the bead.
Why would I want to be concerned about using ConHyPox without having a chemical background?