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Rope Types and Strength

Old 10-01-2013, 07:26 AM
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Default Rope Types and Strength

I need some rope for guiding trees down - I make some small v cuts on the side I want it to go then tie to the truck and get it leaning where I want and then cut more and in the back of the tree and and pull it down. I seem to have gone thru the old phone company tape I used to get for free. What type of rope is best - braided manila, nylon or polypropylene/polyester . They are all fairy inexpensive on Amazon but all give different Measures of strength. - tensile, breaking, etc. I have some of those yellow tow 10,000 lb tow straps but it is a PTA to join them - I need a good 75 to 100 feet

Last edited by LI Sound Grunt; 10-01-2013 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by LI Sound Grunt View Post
I need some rope for guiding trees down - I make some small v cuts on the side I want it to go then tie to the truck and get it leaning where I want and then cut more and in the back of the tree and and pull it down. I seem to have gone thru the old phone company tape I used to get for free. What type of rope is best - braided manila, nylon or polypropylene . They are all fairy inexpensive on Amazon but all give different Measures of strength. - tensile, breaking, etc. I have some of those yellow tow 10,000 lb tow straps but it is a PTA to join them - I need a good 75 to 100 feet
If your straps have loop ends they are very simple to join. Use a loop to loop attachment. Put a stick between the loops after they are joined to keep from tightening down too much making taking apart difficult.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:36 PM
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here's a few links

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Ropes_2

https://www.knotandrope.com/store/pc...p?idCategory=7

I had to take down 11 ash trees last year in my yard of previous house. I used 1/2" 3 strand nylon anchor rope. tied one end to my skid steer loader and had my son put tension on it while I made the final cut. worked like a charm. I borrowed a buddies "slingshot" which is made specifically to shoot a lighter line up thru higher branches then use that to pull the heavier line up.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Boataholic View Post
here's a few links

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Ropes_2

https://www.knotandrope.com/store/pc...p?idCategory=7
I borrowed a buddies "slingshot" which is made specifically to shoot a lighter line up thru higher branches then use that to pull the heavier line up.


An old baseball with an eye screw and parachute chord works too.......sometimes.
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:07 PM
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Thanks to all! Great response...
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Boataholic View Post
here's a few links
I had to take down 11 ash trees last year in my yard of previous house. I used 1/2" 3 strand nylon anchor rope. tied one end to my skid steer loader and had my son put tension on it while I made the final cut. worked like a charm. I borrowed a buddies "slingshot" which is made specifically to shoot a lighter line up thru higher branches then use that to pull the heavier line up.
Ditto on 1/2" anchor line from target tree to base of a tree 100' away (or trailer hitch on truck if needed).

Tension is supplied with five-gallon buckets secured to the rope. When I start cutting, I fill the buckets with water, and that adds a good bit of tension.

Don't worry about tensile strength, because the rope isn't going under a whole lot of stress (unless you want the tree to fall against the lean or into the wind).
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:08 PM
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I had to take down some huge Australian Pines after Hurricane Georges in 1998. I helped pay my beer budget in college by falling trees in Iowa. Safe to say, I've pretty savvy with my saw. I used a 5/8" anchor line tightened with a come-along to steer one of the trees away from my niegbors house. The short version? WAY TOO MUCH STRETCH! The weight of that tree stretched that 5/8 like a rubber band. It may have "helped" keep the tree from crushing the house, but luckily it only took out their porch rail which he claimed as storm damage anyway.

My advice is use a low stretch/no stretch line. The 1/2" may be strong but under a load it's very springy.
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by burningdaylight View Post
I had to take down some huge Australian Pines after Hurricane Georges in 1998. I helped pay my beer budget in college by falling trees in Iowa. Safe to say, I've pretty savvy with my saw. I used a 5/8" anchor line tightened with a come-along to steer one of the trees away from my niegbors house. The short version? WAY TOO MUCH STRETCH! The weight of that tree stretched that 5/8 like a rubber band. It may have "helped" keep the tree from crushing the house, but luckily it only took out their porch rail which he claimed as storm damage anyway.

My advice is use a low stretch/no stretch line. The 1/2" may be strong but under a load it's very springy.
very good point!!! I guess the "springy-ness" of 3 strand twist nylon is what makes it so great for anchors and dock lines..it stretches to relieve stress on deck hardware. That's all I had available though and really no danger of hitting the house in my situation. Non stretch line would probably be more ideal.
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by burningdaylight View Post

My advice is use a low stretch/no stretch line. The 1/2" may be strong but under a load it's very springy.
Which is why I recommended the recovery straps he already owns. Not my first time at the tree cutting rodeo.
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:40 PM
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We can all agree that the anticipated stress results in the proper choice of rope or cable, then?


Dangerous cuts...use steel cables to guarantee that the tree doesn't go wrong. Simple cuts, use rope.

There isn't one answer when our choices vary by so much.
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