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Which Water Seal for deck

Old 05-21-2013, 08:49 AM
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Default Which Water Seal for deck

Reviews of Thomson Water Seal are poor. It seems they changed their formula a few years ago and it is now universally despised. My contractor says "Don't buy Behr" but there are three grades of Behr.

I only have a small deck and only need a gallon, so tell me, what gallon should I spring for?

FWIW, it was done 2 years ago with Thomson's and it has held up well (although it did remain sticky for quite a while).
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:52 AM
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Thompsons has always sucked, they just spend a lot of money on advertising so people think they are good. A lot of the paint/coating manufactures have changed some things, but I used to use benjamin moore clear wood finish and was happy. I think there are probably better ones out now though. Expect to pay over $100 for a five gallon bucket.
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:56 AM
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Why use anything.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:07 AM
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Cabots hands down.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:15 PM
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Olympic works really well. I get 4-5 years on flat surfaces and more on vertical. Have used it for almost 20 years. Use something with a tint and not the clear (it lasts longer).

I am giving Cabot a try this year to see if it works as well.

Use the version with the higher rating (e.g., the 5 year rather than the stuff rated for 3 years).

Prep is the key - make sure the wood is clean and dry.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:20 PM
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The guy that runs the lumber yard where I just bought all the decking for the project I just completed told me hands down, the absolute best stuff to use is Penofin.

The fact that he pulled me aside and told me in a lower tone along with the fact that they dont sell it tells me that he may know something I dont.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by fishingfun View Post
Why use anything.
I'm with you... Nothing works best IMHO... Anything that keeps moisture out, also keeps it in. My neighbor drank the koolaide when he did his mahogany deck the same time I did mine in 98-99, he has replaced at least 3/4 of it now, most of it 4 or 5 years ago. I don't have even a single bad board in mine.

My 40x40 pressure treated pine deck is on it's 10th year with nothing. Just did a lot of work to it after Sandy, not a bad board in it either, most of the galv nails were shot and I had to refasten, but the wood is 100%, been under saltwater numerous times. This is it after I finished it last week. I was tempted to flip the boards but energy level wasn't there!
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:17 PM
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You need to strip off old sealer then neutralize before you do anything. What type finish do you want? For a semi transparent Allow to dry then seal with Wolman's F&P. for semi solid look to Durastain, for solid use Cabots.
Best thing you can do is not listen to a paint store employee or a lumber yard jock. Go to sites that are used by deck restoration specialists.
Number one with them are either Ready Seal or Armstrong Clark. I do this for a living and have done so for over 20 years and I will only use RS or AC. You won't be able to purchase small amounts of either unfortunately.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:29 AM
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I used Cabot on my 10 year old PT deck. Followed the directions to the letter. Washed, dried, primed, and final coat of color. A year later it was peeling off. It was so bad and looked terrible, like sunburn, that I replaced all the boards. Now I'm looking for a product to coat the new one with. If I do nothing, by the time it needs something I'll be dead.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:36 AM
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Penofin products. The best imo
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:55 AM
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Just found ut about "tuff-cote" forms a thick barrier,not paint and fills seams and claims to last a lifetime.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:58 AM
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Biggest problem with failed sealer is prep. All old finish must be removed with a stripper and then the wood must be neutralized. If this is not done prior residue will cause the failures. True some products are just plain bad but they will hold up for a while.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:19 AM
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I just finished a deck for my wife last weekend. The ready seal site shows using just a back pack sprayer to apply the product. Does that sound right to everyone. Seems easy if so.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MarlynOC View Post
Biggest problem with failed sealer is prep. All old finish must be removed with a stripper and then the wood must be neutralized. If this is not done prior residue will cause the failures. True some products are just plain bad but they will hold up for a while.
Most strippers I know charge $100 to $150 per hour and that would get very expensive. I would ejoy the view but the wife and other women might get pissed.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:06 AM
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You are more than welcome to spray some Sodium Hydroxide on your deck yourself. Just be sure you have a face mask, boots and rain suit to protect you from the chemical burns. And you actually think they charge too much?
I charge $4 a sq ft to strip a deck and add on for elevated decks and I get it without question.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:23 AM
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The absolute BEST sealer/stain I have found is Woodrich Stain and Sealer. And if it's being used on a hardwood like Ipe', use the Woodrich Hardwood Wiping Stain. It has twice the resins and pigment solids as Penofins (crap) and Messmers (more crap). The others mentioned above like Behr, Cabots and Thompsons, etc. are really just worthless.

Good luck!
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by clink View Post
I just finished a deck for my wife last weekend. The ready seal site shows using just a back pack sprayer to apply the product. Does that sound right to everyone. Seems easy if so.
If it salt treated don't you have to let the wood dry out for some time so it will absorb the product?
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fishingfun View Post
Most strippers I know charge $100 to $150 per hour and that would get very expensive. I would ejoy the view but the wife and other women might get pissed.
But the question is " how long does it last?"
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRealMacGyver View Post
Thompsons has always sucked, they just spend a lot of money on advertising so people think they are good. A lot of the paint/coating manufactures have changed some things, but I used to use benjamin moore clear wood finish and was happy. I think there are probably better ones out now though. Expect to pay over $100 for a five gallon bucket.
It is indeed useless. Best you can do is protect it from sunlight with a solid preferrably light color stain - top of boards only and only do the sides of posts that you see. Used to use Cabots but now thye only have water based stuff that will still protect but also wears off in much time faster than the old stuff. Personally haven't used it but my kids use Behrs and like it.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:29 PM
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WOOD R/X awesome........
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