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Which Water Seal for deck

Old 05-22-2013, 07:19 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by magua View Post
Penofin products. The best imo
We just used this sealer on our cedar shake.

Everyone said it is the best no question. It is not cheap, but what good ir.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:21 PM
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Let us know how it looks in 9 months.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:50 PM
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sikkens....best there is.....
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
sikkens....best there is.....
I used to think that until I found Woodrich.
Still like Sikkens though for many other exterior stain applications. The others are just garbage.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:44 PM
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Again all I can say is no pros is using Extreme Solutions Wood Tux this year. They are only using Ready Seal and Armstrong Clark.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:51 PM
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BTW when you guys get ready to remove the Sikkens that failed give me a call I will remove it for $7.50 sq ft.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:42 PM
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I water seal a lot of decks and use seal o deck by seal o flex.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MarlynOC View Post
BTW when you guys get ready to remove the Sikkens that failed give me a call I will remove it for $7.50 sq ft.
please inform me of how it will fail ?
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank007 View Post
Olympic works really well. I get 4-5 years on flat surfaces and more on vertical. Have used it for almost 20 years. Use something with a tint and not the clear (it lasts longer).

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X2..................

You guys know I spent a lot of money on the dock and its a pride thing for me to have that looking great with as many wedding as I host here.
4 to 5 years is all your going to get out of any wood treatment and I do mine about every 2 year . Been slack but went three this time but fixing to get started on it as soon as the water turns a little warmer. Some parts I can wade and reach. Its a day job to put two coats on it and thats all I do.
Olympic is a oil base and I LOVE the Honey gold. Ended up doing the inside of the house ( whole bottom down stairs is smooth cut ceder) Its going to be sticky for a while but it soaks into the wood. With two coats on the dock, you can see the water beading up for over a year. If its your first time doing it you'll see how fast it absorbs the stuff. Second coat is a whole lot easier but that first one on dry wood is going to test you. .................
You can even see the results at night. The darker honey gold stain does what its suppose to do. Protects for a few years then you have to romance it a little to get a little more love out of it. .........
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:01 AM
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Nodoubt, the oil likes to attract mold and you will get black blotches in the wood.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:22 AM
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I am in the process of cleaning my deck to seal/stain it. I used Olympic seal/stain about 7 years ago and it is really hard to get it all off. The flat areas are pretty worn but the upright parts are still in relatively good condition. I have to go over it at least twice to get it clean. I am using Zissner's Jomax deck stain and finish stripper plus a 2600 psi power washer.

How do you guys remove the old stain? Are you using just a power washer, but a more powerful one?
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MarlynOC View Post
Nodoubt, the oil likes to attract mold and you will get black blotches in the wood.
That's incorrect. The dark patches come from the mold spores not being killed prior to stain/seal. A common mistake by those who are inexperienced.
The mold spores are killed with a solution of TSP and small amount of bleach. Even new wood has mold spores and needs to be killed.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:59 PM
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Not a sealer but I put Sikkens on my decks.. Great stuff
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 2dogs1949 View Post
I used Cabot on my 10 year old PT deck. Followed the directions to the letter. Washed, dried, primed, and final coat of color. A year later it was peeling off. It was so bad and looked terrible, like sunburn, that I replaced all the boards. Now I'm looking for a product to coat the new one with. If I do nothing, by the time it needs something I'll be dead.
I got the same issue with Cabot. Only took mine 9 months to begin peeling & flaking off.
Crap, I tell ya!
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MarlynOC View Post
You are more than welcome to spray some Sodium Hydroxide on your deck yourself. Just be sure you have a face mask, boots and rain suit to protect you from the chemical burns. And you actually think they charge too much?
I charge $4 a sq ft to strip a deck and add on for elevated decks and I get it without question.

So you are getting around $1K for the stripping part (assuming an average deck is around 12 x 20 or 25)? How much is the finishing?

Getting close to finishing stripping my deck, and it is a lot of work as I have had to do most parts twice.

By the way, I don't think fishingfun was referring to deck strippers with his comments.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by lodel View Post
But the question is " how long does it last?"
If it lasts more than four hours you should seek medical attention.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:31 AM
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Just1More, the oil form the rosewood is inviting the mold, not the sealing oils.
BTW only happens in the hardwood sealer.
Frank007, usually for regular stripping of most products it is $4 to strip, neutralize and seal with Ready Seal or Armstong Clark. The high prices happen with acrylics and exotics.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:47 AM
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About to put TWP 1500 on my dock and pool deck. It is an actual "Wood Preserver" and has gotten great reviews. I will take some pics and give a review of it. It's oil based but is suppose to be able to be recoated easily without stripping. We will see.
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