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Old 07-19-2012, 08:20 PM
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I just had two foundations poured and the pockets for the steel I-beams that will make up the garage are a little low/rough in a few places. 8w-28 beams.

Anybody know the best grout/cement to use to add about 1/2"? I need something that isn't going to compress.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:44 PM
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How about have a pad welded to the beam? I am sure there are products but i would be worried about a cold joint.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:33 AM
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How about have a pad welded to the beam?1/2 steel pad
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:38 AM
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Photos?
Are your saying the finish elevation of the finished footer, diamond, for the column is lower then the garage floor?

Remember beams are horizontal, columns are vertical.



.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:48 AM
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Steel shims from the local building supply.

I would have used LVL's myself with i-joists (or only i joists) unless there was a dimensional height issue.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:48 AM
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I use this: http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/ja...FQTqnAod-ywAuw

Available @ the LoDepot's
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:53 AM
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5 Star non shrink grout for leveling
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:59 AM
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Sakrete makes a non shrinking cement. I would not be worried about a cold joint, where could the sakrete possibly go to?

With a cement you can add the "exact" amount of height you need, with steel pads you can not.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Garett View Post
Sakrete makes a non shrinking cement. I would not be worried about a cold joint, where could the sakrete possibly go to?

With a cement you can add the "exact" amount of height you need, with steel pads you can not.
how exact do you need to be over a 28' span? Its not furniture.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by joeyd View Post
5 Star non shrink grout for leveling


5 star is a brand name, any good non shrink grout will work. Temporarily shore the beam at the proper elevation and pack the grout under it, mix it kind of stiff. You can use wedges to push the beam up, pull the wedges when the grout sets up then fill the wedge holes with more grout.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:15 AM
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Thanks guys. I thought of the 1/2" plate idea just more work for my welder at $$/hour. They aren't exactly perfectly level either. Guess I will be grinding them flat and going with shims, only 4 places and I would rather do it myself and make sure it's the correct height than have my foundation guys Pedro jump in there with a 7" grinder and start going crazy.

I was typing while the last two post came in. A wedge and non shrink grout will work fine.

240LTS Townhouse foundation with full basement. Steel frame will look like a L with a single 6" dia column at the 90 in the basement to support and 3 more cross braces along the small side. I am using steel decking on top with a 6" concrete pour for the garage floor. Top of I-beam will be flush with top of current foundation.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:29 AM
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A 1/2" inch thick cold joint is not going work, it will crack out. The only possible way it would work is if you chip the area out deeper and add some dowels.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:29 AM
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I assume this has been engineered? You have to pay attention to deck spans, deflection etc. Be sure the side laps of the decking get screwed together.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Ifishalot View Post
A 1/2" inch thick cold joint is not going work, it will crack out. The only possible way it would work is if you chip the area out deeper and add some dowels.
The grout will be fine, 1/2" gap is not ideal, but only cause it is harder to get the grout under the beam. We usually try to go 1". I have been doing this work for over 30 yrs.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by richinct View Post
The grout will be fine, 1/2" gap is not ideal, but only cause it is harder to get the grout under the beam. We usually try to go 1". I have been doing this work for over 30 yrs.
Yup, my bad.... I misread the OP. It's early, I thought he was trying to fix a boo boo.(eg. filling in a hole)
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:44 AM
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Here's a typical detail on my current project.
Your situation may be similar.
The footer is not meant to be at the exact elevation. That is why there are leveling plates with non shrink grout underneath.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by richinct View Post
I assume this has been engineered? You have to pay attention to deck spans, deflection etc. Be sure the side laps of the decking get screwed together.
What is supporting the decking between the beam(s) and the foundation walls?
Bar joist?
Centers?
Puddle welding the deck to the bar joist?
Nelson anchors?
Decking gauge?
Ribs?

http://www.ascsd.com/floor.html

.




Your making a composite deck?
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BACKTOTHESEA View Post
how exact do you need to be over a 28' span? Its not furniture.
.......yeah but it's hard to be exact in some areas and not in others.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:19 AM
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It was a little after my bed time last night and didn't read it right. No worries about the cold joint. I would still go with the spacer
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:41 AM
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I am a Structural PE, any Non-Shrink Grout is fine, just make sure you bolt the beam to the wall with an epoxy bolt, the grout is only for bearing not to hold it laterally. i recommend a HILTI product, HY 150MAX for this case 3/4" diam

If you can get a epoxy grout use it and it will be fine.

On ALL our Heavy industrial/commercial projects base plates are ALWAYS 2" from the top of footing and we call out a non-shrink grout, pretty much like that detail posted above, you are fine, actually i bet the concrete guy did the pockets lower on purpose
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