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Old 07-12-2012, 08:40 AM
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I was hoping that I wouldn't "need" gutters when I moved from NJ to FL. Well... I was wrong. At least - sort of.

I NEED gutters on the back half of the house because the roof line is over the pool and when it rains it fuggs up the pool something fierce (crap from roof goes in pool -- and more)... anyway. I need gutters.

Normally I would just whore around get the cheapest guy to do the job. But there isn't a huge difference between prices, so I'm looking for some advice.

I found this:
http://anytimegutter.com/EducateYourself.htm
http://anytimegutter.com/SeeForYourself.htm
http://anytimegutter.com/expertanswers.htm

This guy has some interesting stuff - however he's a real fear-monger sales type...

Anyway. Questions:

The guy (from the links above) is hell-bent that the gutter should go behind the drip edge (so that the drip edge drips into the gutter (which does make sense!) -- however, in my case (and in the case of MANY homes here in SE FL) the drip edge is extended 1" beyond the fascia. They take a 1x2 and put it on top of the fascia at the top and then put the drip edge over it -- so that the drip edge is 1" proud of the fascia...

So...
Should the gutter go BEHIND the drip edge.
If so, how the heck you going to make that happen if the drip edge is 1" beyond the fascia with a piece of wood behind it!!?

Any other information you can share would be excellently appreciated!

Pete
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:10 AM
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I'm sure the FL guys have an answer for you.

For my own curiosity, would you post a pick of your drip edge/fascia? I can't seem to wrap my head around what you are describing.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:18 AM
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I'm doing gutters this week. I was really turned off by the guy you are referring to. PM me and I will give you the name of how we are using.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by davedowneast View Post
I'm sure the FL guys have an answer for you.

For my own curiosity, would you post a pick of your drip edge/fascia? I can't seem to wrap my head around what you are describing.
Not to scale... but should explain things:



Crap! It's upside down... yet it is correct in photobucket. GRRRRR...

P.S. MC: PM Sent.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:46 AM
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Interesting! I assume they do it that way because it's tile.

Could the gutter still be attached to the fascia? the drip edge would still direct most of the water into the gutter.

Or, maybe another (1X4)? on the fascia if there's some overhang. Whatever you do, you don't want the water to be able to run behind the gutter.

Anyway, I'm sure others have already resolved this. I'm headed to the dentist and now a Chiropractor to straighten my neck after looking at that drawing.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:00 AM
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They build the same way up here in northwest Florida.
Except the drip edge has a horizontal extention of mayb 1/2" before it goes back to the 1x2.
The shingles hang out another 1/2" or so beyond the drip edge too.

I would be inclined to ad another 1x2 to the facia flush with the bottom of gutter.
Might want a 1x4 instead in order to pickup the gutter support brackets mounting holes.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:12 AM
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Very common construction in many areas, fascia, shingle moulding, drip edge.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:22 AM
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It doesn't appear from the drawing that you have a proper drip edge. The protuding edge should be crimped and come back about 3/4" towards the fascia. It looks like somebody used a sheet metal brake to bend nothing more than a right angle piece of metal? That is if the drawing is correct. Also, your shingles should extend at least a 1/4" past the edge of the drip edge so the water doesn't actually hit the drip edge, but runs off the shingles into the gutter.

Old Pete,
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:24 AM
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Pete, just bump your gutter to the bottom of the 1x2.
Paint your fascia before installing the gutter.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:41 PM
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That's common for wood fascia, on aluminum they just slide the fascia up under the dripedge. Anyhow, get 6 inch gutters whatever you do. Don't play around with 4" here in Florida-they can't handle the water volume and then you have issue when they overflow. Also go large on the downspouts. You can use one downspout for about 25 foot, but larger and I would go with 2. A lot of guys will tell you one for up to 30-35 feet, but I wouldn't do it.

On the fascia issue, if you have a plumb/level return (your fascia is plumb, not square with the pitch of the roof), then just bump the gutter up tight to the 1X2 drip and secure it, done.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:47 PM
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Right 6" continuous gutters is the only way to go........no joints to leak and hopefully 6" holds any rain.
Gutter guards - helmets all that crap are just that - crap. They either act as a ramp for hard rains to shoot off of or different types of the screens ect. get clogged or flip off the gutter.......

By the way if you do have to replace any of the fascia use p v c / composite type.......
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:07 PM
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I think your roof tile looks a little wobbly. I would secure that first.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:44 PM
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PM sent.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:11 AM
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A couple of examples.

http://inspectapedia.com/exterior/Gutter_Defects.htm

http://www.gutterworks.com/hidden_hanger.html

If the drip edge/shingles pass the fascia too far (greater then one inch) or the gutter is too low, the rain run off can/may miss the gutter altogether.
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:05 AM
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Got a quote for 223 feet for gutter and 5 downspouts. 6" Gutters. SE Florida.
$869

The part that concerns me is that this gives an average of 44-1/2' of gutter per downspout.

I'm reading that each downspout can do 1200sf. I have a 34sq (3400 SF) roof. So that jives. However, I'm also reading that there should be a downspout every 30ft.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:50 PM
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Assuming your talking 3" X 4" downspouts, it would be nice to see a few more in my opinion. If you have a long straight run over 25-30 feet you should have one on each end. I think with one one each end you could go as long as 50, maybe 60 feet without the need for a 3rd one. Do you have any runs over 50-60 feet? I would think you could make a deal at this point for them to throw some more in at the quoted price you have. The price sounds right for what you are getting.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRealMacGyver View Post
Assuming your talking 3" X 4" downspouts, it would be nice to see a few more in my opinion. If you have a long straight run over 25-30 feet you should have one on each end. I think with one one each end you could go as long as 50, maybe 60 feet without the need for a 3rd one. Do you have any runs over 50-60 feet? I would think you could make a deal at this point for them to throw some more in at the quoted price you have. The price sounds right for what you are getting.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!

Here's roughly what I have:



I believe (but need to confirm) that he wants to put the 5 downspouts @ points:
A,B,C,D,G

What are your thoughts?

Thanks again!
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by OldPete View Post
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!

Here's roughly what I have:



I believe (but need to confirm) that he wants to put the 5 downspouts @ points:
A,B,C,D,G

What are your thoughts?

Thanks again!
Somebodys math or measuring does not compute.
The right hand overall does not compute with the left hand numbers.
Assuming all corners are square.

I would push for downspouts at each letter.
"D" is way overloaded.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:42 PM
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Yeah Yeah -- I know the numbers don't add up. It's only to give you a rough idea...

Here's the thing: D&C go out to a drainage area that is off the property... naturally I'd like as much of of the run-off to go out there. I realize that A,B,F,G would likely NOT be connected to the drainage area... (I could trench it and drop pipe at a later time, but that's another story)...

Thanks for the input,
Pete
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jus Teasin View Post
How come you're not running gutters between b & c, e & f, and a & g?
Gable Ends.
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