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Truck brake vibration

Old 11-08-2011, 03:44 AM
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Default Truck brake vibration

My 2005 silverado half ton brake pedal is making a slight fast vibration/muted grind just before it stops - similar to the brake pedal vibration you get when the anti lock brakes kick in. It probably IS time 35,000 for new pads and rotors but just curious - this doesn't seem to be a normal low pad bad rotor symptom - any thoughts?

(BTW if anyone has problems with the heater fan motors on these vehicles and less than 150,000 mi. they will fix it for free.)
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Old 11-08-2011, 03:46 AM
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warped rotors?
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Old 11-08-2011, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by streakolean View Post
warped rotors?
I do have that also but this is an additional very veyr fast frequency much faster than the rotors whop whop whop sound (it wouldn't let me leave the h out) as it stops. Like I said it feels like the ALB vibration but there is not trouble code nor is the brake light or check engine (MIL) lit.
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Old 11-08-2011, 03:51 AM
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X2
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:21 AM
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I'm just guessing here .... I haven't done a brake job on any of the newer GMC/ Chevy trucks. Wouldn't those calipers have two pistons each? Well it almost sounds like one of the pistons is seized and therefore it's causing the brake pad to flutter, so to speak. That or one of the alignment clips to hold the brake pads in place has broken........but I go for the seized piston idea first.
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:30 AM
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Ok I have to clarify - I have done maybe 100 + brake rotor replacements in 35 years and this IS the ALB vibration grind or whatever you call it. Warped rotors have a slow vibration that you can feel in the whole car and slows down as you stop. This is the ALB vibration that is ONLY in the pedal and an donly the last second or so of the stop and is about 100 to a thousand times faster than the rotor whop whop which happens once per rotation. My question is - why doesn't this set off my brake light or MIL if the ALBs are malfunctioning.?? (Truck stops fine by the way)

Garret - I guess that's possible and that may transmit to the pedal -I hope you are wrong - I don't know if I have ever experienced piston flutter but do not look forward to buying new calipers.
Thanks to all - Hey Garett I haven't talked to you for a while - going out for about an hr. if you're around I'll give ya a call later - we have power and phone lines back!
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by LI Sound Grunt View Post
Hey Garett I haven't talked to you for a while - going out for about an hr. if you're around I'll give ya a call later - we have power and phone lines back!
I'll give you a call when I get back from the dentist's, my appointment is at 11:45. ....nah hell, I'll just call you now.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:03 AM
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bearings
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:55 AM
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my first response was rotors because i have a 2k superduty that had very similar behavior. almost like the anti lock was over sensitive and kicked in too soon. i needed brake work done and they replaced pads and turned the rotors, since then the problem has not recurred.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bumster View Post
bearings
Yes a possibility as that will F up the antilock system - but I hope not they are thes epresealed things that you need this huge socket to get off and its a pita if I remember right.... tires are wearing well and I will check for play now....

Originally Posted by streakolean View Post
my first response was rotors because i have a 2k superduty that had very similar behavior. almost like the anti lock was over sensitive and kicked in too soon. i needed brake work done and they replaced pads and turned the rotors, since then the problem has not recurred.
I hope this is it - I don't see the relation (hey maybe I odn't know everyhting ) , but now that I have some first hand experience/testimony - I will do the rotors and pads and see what happens - its time anyway Thanks a lot - I feel better now I love this website...
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:41 AM
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Sounds like you have had your hands greasy before. I would stick with your gut which is saying the anti-lock system is going off and take a look at that. Wouldn't hurt to do the brake job first and see if that eliminates your problem.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:21 AM
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Are your anti-lock brakes working properly when they SHOULD be locking? Find a wet road and try them, see if your lights go off etc.

I think you'd be way better off with a caliper/pad/rotor problem than an abs problem. But could be one of the wheel sensors malfunctioning and tripping ABS when it shouldn't?
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:27 AM
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Warped rotor or rotors, hotspot on one or both rotors, cause your symptom 99% of the time....machine them or replace them along with the pads....get the best quality pads you can buy if you plan on keeping your truck for another 50K miles....
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Old 11-08-2011, 12:30 PM
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I'm another in the it's a warped roter boat. Yes you could be having issues with the ALB system but I doubt it. Could be the ALB system is activating with the kick back from the warped rotors. Also don't turn them just replace, since turning them removse the heat treatment and they will warp faster then. They are cheap.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:03 PM
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Bulletin No.: 03-05-25-007C
Date: May 16, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface)

Models:
2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade ESV
1999-2006 Chevrolet Silverado
2001-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
2003-2006 Chevrolet Express
1999-2006 GMC Sierra
2001-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL
2003-2006 GMC Savana
2003-2006 ****** H2

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to provide additional warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-25-007B (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1.Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and ******* the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2.Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor connectors at the frame and harness.
3.Place a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) across the terminals of each wheel speed sensor connector.
4.Rotate the wheel clockwise approximately one revolution per second. The minimum reading should be at least 350 ACmV's. If the reading is less than 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel speed sensor. Refer to the applicable Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement procedure in the ABS sub-section of the Service Manual.
5.Plug the wheel speed sensor bore in order to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service.
6.Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, scotch brite, or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
7.Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor.
8.Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
9.When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
10.Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub. Refer to the applicable Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement procedure in the ABS sub-section of the Service Manual.
11.Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:09 AM
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beat me to it...

false antilock activation can be caused by different conditions...the tsb outlines improper airgap between the sensor and reluctor wheel...a failing sensor can cause it also as the speed may drop out as the sensor winds down...the abs module sees a wheel speed drop quicker than the others signalling impending lock-up and goes into anti lock mode...it wont be picked up as a problem because it views it as an actual lock-up event....i have also seen cracked reluctor wheels cause similar symtoms...at low speeds the additional out of synch space in the reluctor wheel throws the speeds off...on some trucks the reluctor wheels are integral with the axles and particals of metal can cause problems...
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:20 AM
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Bearings is a good possibility, but often a wobbly wheel will "knock back" the pads resulting in a low brake pedal on the first application. You could pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem goes away to confirm ABS problem.

Thickness variation of the rotor can cause a high frequency vibration..the rotor doesn't have to be warped.
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by billinstuart View Post
Bearings is a good possibility, but often a wobbly wheel will "knock back" the pads resulting in a low brake pedal on the first application. You could pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem goes away to confirm ABS problem.

Thickness variation of the rotor can cause a high frequency vibration..the rotor doesn't have to be warped.
thickness variation would be apparent at high speeds...
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