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DIY deck sanding question.......

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Old 11-06-2009, 05:59 AM
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So I want to repaint my outdoor back deck. The orginal deck paint was poorly applied and is peeling. I want to rent a drum sander I guess to sand as much of the old paint off as possible???

Should I go to Home Depot to rent one? Any pitfalls or tips? The area of the deck is about 15 ft by 35 ft. What grit should I use?

Thanks!
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:10 AM
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Sorry but, why are you asking us? We already know you are going to do it the way you want to anyway.
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by littletunny View Post
So I want to repaint my outdoor back deck. The orginal deck paint was poorly applied and is peeling. I want to rent a drum sander I guess to sand as much of the old paint off as possible???

Should I go to Home Depot to rent one? Any pitfalls or tips? The area of the deck is about 15 ft by 35 ft. What grit should I use?

Thanks!
Have you ever used one before? Have you researched on how to use one without damaging the surface? Do you have a plan to sand close to the house and under the railings?

Have you considered turning the deck boards over to have a fresh surface?

If you want to sand the deck, do a web search on "sanding floors". You'll get better information than what you can get here.
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Garett View Post
Sorry but, why are you asking us? We already know you are going to do it the way you want to anyway.
Oh Garrett jump off a bridge. BTW my house hasn't burned down yet.

You cant handle the fact that I didnt do it YOUR way. Get over yourself.
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:31 AM
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I've used DA and belt sanders to do it but never a drum. Good luck
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:48 AM
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Its going to be a bit of a pain with any type of 'flat' sander because you will likely have the problem of the deck boards being uneven. Since decks are not normally sanded upon installation (unlike a Hardwood floor) they'll likely be a bit uneven. Weather and time will tend to make them even more uneven. The drum sander (or most any sander) will not be able to follow any variations in height. You will basically have to take all of the boards down to the level of the lowest adjacent board. Plus, any surface level or protruding nail/screw heads will interfere with and/or rip the sanding paper. So you will have to go around and set them all below the surface of the wood. You'll need to start with a fairly coarse grit to get everything even and the paint off, then work you way down a couple steps of finer grits to remove most or all of the sanding marks.

Ken
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:02 AM
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I would start with a chemical stripper and a commercial quality (higher pressure, an electric Karcher may not cut it) pressure washer first. I would assume you have treated wood, for the decking which is pine or fir which are softwoods. A drum sander will destroy your deck very quickly. More than likely your deck was painted before the wood had a chance to dry or age out and that causes premature paint failure. The other issue depending on the shape of your deck is cupping, more than likely your deck isnt as flat as you would think.
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:48 AM
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If you want the best RESULTS then you should remove each board, pass it thru a power feed sander, and re-install the board. That is what I did (only I used a planer)for this deck (2nd set of photos on page): http://www.morrisonconstruction.net/DecksPorches.php
and you can see for yourself how beautiful it came out.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:02 AM
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Is it latex or oil? Get some HD 80 (sodium hydroxide)stripper and remove the paint then neutralize the stripper with a power washer. Temp should not be below 50 degrees. If you use a sander you have to be sure every nail or screw is countersunk. If you do go that route use 80 grit. What do you intend to do about railings and spindles?
DO NOT USE PAINT.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:28 AM
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I have never really understood why people paint decks. If you want color, go with a water repellent, transparent stain. I do not envy you with the upcoming task. I built my deck out of the recycled deck board stuff and love it. I pressure wash it once a year and it looks brand new. With the time you are going to spend, I would consider just replacing the deck boards if that is an option.
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:15 AM
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Good info!

Yes my deck boards are cupped a little and not even so it sounds like I need to use a paint stripper and not mess with the drum sander since it may be more trouble than its worth.

If I could have done it over I would have never had the deck painted. The rails and bollesters are white and are holding up well. I almost feel like I have to paint the deck since the rails are already white. The fun part will applying the stripper but not getting on the side of the house or the railings.
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:38 AM
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Use a pump up sprayer to apply, keep moist and let dwell for 30-45 minutes then power wash off. Follow with neutralizer to stop wood from turning black from the stripper.
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:11 AM
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You can use the sprayer for the most of the deck, but I always use a roller especially when doing a deck next to a painted house. I honestly think the roller is quicker anyways and if you dont have a sprayer, why buy one, rollers are cheap. Use the heavy knap and youll lay down the stripper really fast and without overspray. Obviously use a brush for the close in work, if your repainting anyway just stay away from the house as much as you can. Im not a pro by anymeans but Ive removed paint on 4 of our rentals' decks and one of the decks on my house when we bought it. I took all of them done to bare wood and then stained and sealed and they look great. You really dont want to sand, with the amount of time and sander rental and paper you may as well redeck the thing.
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:20 AM
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NaOH will tear up a roller or a brush in about 3 minutes at full strength 8 oz per gal. I do it for a living and do about 230-250 decks per year.
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MarlynOC View Post
NaOH will tear up a roller or a brush in about 3 minutes at full strength 8 oz per gal. I do it for a living and do about 230-250 decks per year.
Ok, the 5 gal can of paint stripper I got from Lowes worked fine with a roller. Besides with Sodium Hydroxide you have to worry about damaging the wood, raising the grain, and staining the wood. Besides diluting a base like NaOH with water when your done is not the same as neutralizing it. So you have to do that as well or risk the damage listed above or worse. Im not saying you cant use it, as you obviously do but there are other alternatives out there that arent as caustic and work just as well.
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:00 PM
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I use stripper on my decks and then power wash. Next, I sand. However, don't use a drum sander because if there are any protruding nails/screws they will destroy the drum (very expensive) plus if left in one spot they will cause depressions quickly (that is, they are hard to control and get a smooth finish). Instead, rent a pad sander (I think the pad is 16"x16" or 18"x18" or so). It will remove the rest of the paint and smooth the wood. I used the heaviest grit (I forget whether it was 46 or 60). A pad goes between the machine and the sandpaper. You could go over it a second time with a finer grade of sandpaper (around 100 grit) for a smoother finish although I didn't bother. These sanders are very heavy and shake side to side and look something like an upright vacuum.

I have done this on a couple of decks and it works well and is not too hard to do. The sander takes out much, but probably not all, of the cupping. You still need to set the nails/screws below the surface of the wood, but it is not as critical.

Use belt and detail sanders for railings.
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Old 11-07-2009, 02:23 PM
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Your deck is probably nailed with hot dipped galvanized nails. If you plan to sand be sure you set the nails or you will sand the galvanizing off the nails and they will rust prematurely.
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Old 11-07-2009, 03:02 PM
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here's a few "deck" tricks...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ7Ue...layer_embedded
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