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Ipe' deck material

Old 06-20-2007, 10:25 PM
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Default Ipe' deck material

Debate the good and bad please.

I haven't done much pricing, how much difference is it with the routered edges for the hidden fasteners and compare to PT. Thanks
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:35 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

Very expensive, looks fantastic, lasts w/o warp or shrinkage, simply the best decking available. I would forgo the fastness, counter sink stainless deck screws, and the pattern OC 24" will disappear. Routed looks best.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:55 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

baitkiller - there really is no comparison between ipe and p.t. decking. As stated above ipe is one of the nicest, natural decking materials around. I like the concealed fastener system best but it is very labor intensive so will cost considerably more than countersunk/face nailing. You'll need to pre-drill ipe before screwing it though as its a very dense wood - that, and its initial cost are the only cons in my book. The pros are beautiful looks, durability, no splintering and no chemicals to leach out over time.
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Old 06-21-2007, 07:05 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

Well worth the money. Put it down and forget about it since there is no maintance. I would use a carbide tipped blade to cut it and also pre-drill the holes for fasteners since it's like working with steel. I've had stuff down for 8 years and it still looks nice. PT would have warmped and checked by now.

D-
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:06 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

Ipe V Pressure Treated - That is like comparing a Ferrari to a Yugo.

Ipe is Ultra expensive and is like working with concrete it is so dense.

The good part is it is basically a put it down and forget about it application.

IMO, if you are going to spend the $$ for Ipe, pay the extra $ and spend the extra time to use the hidden fasteners to give it the cleanest sharpest appearance.

If this is a DIY application - buy some extra saw blades and drill bits
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:21 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

Thanks fellahs, It is a DIY project, as is the rest of the addition. I'm just trying to justify the cost in my Scottish brain.

I still cant get all juicy over the faux wood stuff. Just don't like it and I don't care what you say its gonna sag.

I've seen the Ipe' systems online and you can find it on Ebay sometimes but rarely at a discount.

Thanks guys, I guess I better get going. .... Cant be late for my second job
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:23 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

My sig show my Ipe deck. Very heavy wood. It will last forever if you treat it. I bought the house this past fall, and the deck is in need of a washing and treating. The wood is so heavy it sinks. Not kidding!
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:34 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

The only thing that cuts it for more than a couple of cuts is carbide. It's dusty to work with. It's heavy as he11. If you don't round off the edges it splinters. The splinters hurt and go deep but won't leave you with an infection like green heart does. Oh, and the cost issue.

Have you looked at mahogany? They both weather to silver. I've never put a pressure washer to IPE but we do the deck every other year down the cape and it looks great after 9 years.

They both MUST be screwed. Trim head stainless work fine and if the installer keeps a nice straight line it looks just fine.

Has anyone seen and used the newer "Tropical" composite decking that's out now? It looked nice as I drove by it cutting thru the Home Dippo parking lot. I should have stopped but we won't revisit that issue. I'm wondering about the fading.
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:36 AM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

Just put 2000SQ of IPE down last spring, great stuff. I'm not sure in your area but it wasn't that much more than trex in the NY/NJ area and ther is no comparison. I Screwed mine down with SS #7 brown square head screws, they blend in. I looked into the concealed method and found two drawbacks, IMHO, cost was almost double and if you ever need to lift a board it becomes a major job. I used the 3/4" material which went down and looks great. You will need a good carbide fine tooth blade and many drill bits, use the bits with the integrated countersink. You will need to seal the end grain after cutting. Here is the company I dealt with www.monteath.com/lumber. Good Luck
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Old 06-21-2007, 12:15 PM
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Default RE: Ipe' deck material

For grooved Ipe you will be looking at $4.00per LF at least. Standard 5/4, which will be about an 1/8 thicker, will be about $3.20 per LF. As RI Builder stated, if you're going to put out that kind of dough, go with the concealed system. I would recommend the EBTY system. IQ system is good too but MUCH more labor intensive. Ipe will last forever if taken care of. And there isn't that much care needed. Stuff looks like furniture when sealed with Mezners clear finish. Most importantly is to coat all of the end cuts with penefin.
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:35 PM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

My next door neighbor priced it at $3.00 a board foot today (builder price). Teak is running $20.50 a bf (retail) in this area. Yes the specific gravity is 1.06 .. heavier than water. The stuff is covering the decks at Nauticus http://www.nauticus.org/nauticus.html
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:53 PM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

I did my deck about 5 years ago with the 5/4 x 6" and I used the EB/ties When I did it the material did not come through slotted I biscuited it all myself. Like some one metioned you must put anchor seal or some other wax type coating on the ends because it will crack. Also one thing I found with it was the first few years when by babies were crawling on it they got very fine splinters in there hands and knees. I am sure someone will say that thats impossible it doesnt splinter but believe me it does. I have another buddy who put it down also and had the same results. I pressure washed mine last year and put Messmers down on it and to tell you the truth I would'nt do it again. I really did'nt like the way it came out. It seemed to have alot of sort of flat spots. It almost looked like you let a puddle of it dry up even though I brushed it out well. No matter how you do it you will find it relatively labor intensive.
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:55 PM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

Also if you do do it and you have someone you want to screw with giv them a box of it and tell them to burn it in the woodstove. The stuff is so hard it really doesnt burn.
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Old 06-22-2007, 01:53 PM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

I put in an Ipe deck 8 yrs ago. I used hidden fastners- self tapping screws from below, abot 7000 of them.
Bottom line the deck looks great. I routed some pieces no prob w/ carbide router bits.
I stain it w/ the oil stain every 2-3 yrs , if not it becomes silver in color.
Screwing it in from below depends A LOT on how high the deck is off the ground. Also get a smaller screw gun that is easy to handle between the joists and some extra batteries.

Good Luck.

John
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Old 06-23-2007, 04:21 PM
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Default Re: Ipe' deck material

thubert57 - 6/21/2007 9:35 PM

My next door neighbor priced it at $3.00 a board foot today (builder price). Teak is running $20.50 a bf (retail) in this area. Yes the specific gravity is 1.06 .. heavier than water. The stuff is covering the decks at Nauticus http://www.nauticus.org/nauticus.html
Correction - $3.00 a linear foot for 5/4 x 6. A little more expensive.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:57 PM
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Default RE: Ipe' deck material

This is a great decking material, but it is not cheap. Also, the wood is very hard and you will go through many saw, drill, and router bits. You also will have to pre-drill all screw holes. At the end of the day, you will have a first class deck.
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