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Window sash replacement

Old 06-09-2007, 08:19 AM
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Default Window sash replacement

My circa 1989 replacement Andersen double hung sash finally came in. I can't figure out how to get the old broken one out - do i have to take out these plastic sliders? You can't just push it to one side and swing it out. Do I have to remove the whole trim sills casings and such??? ?

HELP!!!!!





Thanks
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:21 AM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

The interior casings were installed after the windows, so they gotta come out to remove the track. Get yer wonder bar out.
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:31 AM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

"The interior casings were installed after the windows," Is that normal for this set-up, or another shortcut my builder took?

Crap...Didn't want to hear that

But, Thanks

Bob


Thanks

Bob
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:54 AM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

Look at the window like a deck of cards Bob - you can only turn one card over at a time. In other words view the window as that deck of cards, each layer has to be peeled away before you expose the next layer.....builders have no short cuts with replacing sashes, they are faced with the same deck of cards you are.

IMO tools of choice based off of your pics would be: 2 2" stiff bladed putty knives, 1 hammer, 1 wonder bar and any screwdrivers that would be needed. (the putty knives make for a smaller entry point then the wonder bar does when separating layers of wood).

Now I just finished looking and I'm all out of it to give you the proper name, but did you buy some bedding caulk when you picked up you replacement sash? The sash is not just sandwiched between the wood, there should be a glazing there which acts as a weather seal.
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Old 06-09-2007, 09:22 AM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

I have noticed in my house that these windows and all the ones that I finished with polyurethane or varnish seem to get mildew and deteroriate more than the one room where I have all the windows and trim painted. Is that common? Is paint better? The bathroom is soon to be remodeled and I will probably paint these a white anyway. Can I paint all the way to the end of the new sash or will that screw up the tracking - should I paint it after its installed?? And what do you recommend for primer, paint, et. Oil, laytex or what - right now the bottom half is the new wood and the top has varnish or polyurethane.

Is the wonder bar one of those short wide and thin crowbars - I think I have one. Garett, If you're free this afternoon since its raining and all - just come on down and do it for me, OK?
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Old 06-09-2007, 10:34 AM
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Default RE: Window sash replacement

Ooops

Sorry there WERE instructions - I am an idiot. Those liners DO slide out under the window as shown.

When all else fails - read the instructions. Anyway I still am asking for advice on paint. Will any latex white paint do? Its brand new wood so is any primer needed....And since the windows are out, can I should I paint into the sides where it touches the plastic jamb liner..

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Old 06-10-2007, 08:24 AM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

See what you get Bob when you start a project on the weekend......everyone is hard at work. And you guys got rain....... ........man was it a beautiful day yesterday here!

Yes a wonder bar is as you say > Wonder Bar

Yes I would use a quality primer/ sealer and then two coats of quality latex paint over top.....there is no reason why you couldn't use an oil paint, it just takes longer to dry! IMO I would paint everything while you have it apart and no I would not want to get any point on your sliders/ jam liners......unsightly and the sashes don't run as freely.


So should I pack clothes for a few days, a week or three weeks Bob. We'll get er all done!
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Old 06-10-2007, 08:45 AM
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Default RE: Window sash replacement

Thanks

Exactly what the instructions says. Funny how we never read that stuff. Should I paint the sides where it will be in contact with the plastic jamb liner - i suspect not???

And yes I took the top sash out to do that at the same time.

Stay as long as you want - we can rebuild the whole freegin house. There is no shortage of things that aren't guite right here.....and a million things I would do over (redesign)
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Old 06-10-2007, 09:25 AM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

You know Bob I don't know what the manufactures say about painting or sealing the sides of sashes? But I myself like the idea of having them at least sealed. The theory with wood is to do what one would do to one side is to do with all sides....it makes for stable wood properties. Based off of that theory I would paint the side of the sash adjacent to the sliders. ? I just tried calling Master Seal in town (they do wooden windows) to get a proper answer for you, they only have M - F hours.....I'll call Monday if you'd like?


So what's your address....no wait, I've got it here. Roll out the cot Bob....no wait, I've got to buy a house first. ......how's late summer?
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Old 06-10-2007, 10:07 AM
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Default RE: Window sash replacement




Yes, I had the same thoughts on the sides....

Thanks let me know what the experts say - am going to the boat now and won't do the window painting till during the week. Shakedown cruise....suppose I should change the Oil too....
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Old 06-10-2007, 11:22 AM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

Will do Bob, I'll give them a call Monday morning.
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Old 06-11-2007, 12:16 PM
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Default Re: Window sash replacement

Ok Bob Iíve got the down low and skinny on this one, right from the horses mouth.

For the best job possible:
- 100% paint the sash.......you can never have to much paint!
- remove all hardware before you paint
- any weather strip pieces, DO NOT PAINT - either use masking tape or Vaseline
- primer/ sealer 100% of the new sash......and ALL sashes
* I was told for the best possible finish durability and protection was to use a shellac based primer (BIN by ZINSSER).....apparently it offers a superior bonding surface for paint to adhere to....quote 20 times unquote. All windows, doors and external wood should be covered initially with BIN. Apparently BIN does not cover well, but that doesnít matter, it is doing what it is supposed to. So donít worry if it doesnít have the appearance of a solid coat...apply two coats of BIN. It dries in about 20 minutes.
- buy the best latex paint...it will out last cheaper paints big time. NOTE: NOT the most expensive version of a cheap paints.....Bare (sp?) CIL, Dupont. IMO a top quality paint is Para, Pratt or Benjamin Moore. Apply at least two coats of your paint, a third is only going to add longevity to your project!
* I was told by using the products above you should easily be adding 5 to 10 years between having to repaint.
- the Vaseline will also work great on your glass, but you can also use masking tape. Any paint you do end up on your glass you can just use a razor blade to scrap it off.

Well thatís the full scoop Bob, if I were to give you any more it would be me doing the painting.
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