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Bicycle Repair Shop Advice

Old 04-15-2021, 05:54 PM
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Default Bicycle Repair Shop Advice

I have a 2020 Specialized Roll and have had trouble with the bike making a crunchy grinding sound while pedaling since the day I picked it up from my LBS. I took it back the next day and they agreed that something was not right. They replaced the pedals, adjusted the RD and finally put a new KMC chain on it before declaring it perfect.

I rode it around the parking lot a few times and while the crunchy grinding sound was a little better, it was still there.

Fast forward 9 months and I’ve had 4 different chains on the bike, replaced the Shimano Tourney junk cassette with a step up SRAM cassette, replaced the Tourney RD with an Altus, serviced the rear loose bearings at least 3 times, replaced the front chain ring and the bike is still as crunchy as ever. Only thing I’ve not done is pull the bottom bracket. When I remove the chain and spin the cranks, it’s super smooth and spins for quite a while. Doesn’t seem like the BB is the issue.

I bought this bike because it was stupidly simple. Has a 1x7 drive train, V brakes, etc. I wanted something simple so it was easy to maintain and was reliable. This bike has definitely been one of the more frustrating purchases I’ve made in a long time.

Any ideas on where I might be able to find a bike guru that might be able to fix this thing once and for all? I live in Boca Grande but am in Sarasota a few times per week.

I bought a new Sirrus X 4.0 today and it’s so smooth, it’s reignited my determination to get this funky little Roll fixed. I like the bike but hate the crunchy.
Old 04-15-2021, 06:04 PM
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This may sound stupid simple, but try loosening the seat post and apply a little grease on the post where it enters the tube. I get a creaking sound and this is always the issue.
Old 04-15-2021, 06:04 PM
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Change out the Spacely sprockets for some Cogswell cogs.
Old 04-15-2021, 06:35 PM
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Is the chain line straight? Derailleur alignment? Is the chain compatible with the other components?
Old 04-15-2021, 07:09 PM
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My immediate thought is bottom bracket, is it still under warranty I would have made them replace the BB right after they did all the other stuff and noise was still there​​​​​.

Any more detail you can give, where does it sound like it’s coming from? Is it under stress or all the time? Can you feel it in your feet? Is it only when peddling?

Old 04-15-2021, 07:31 PM
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Crank could be bad and only under a load it shows.
Old 04-15-2021, 08:02 PM
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Sounds like the bottom bracket to me. Easy for a shop to disassemble, check, lube, and re-assemble. I’ve had a similar sound and that was the culprit, but I’d also say that bike noises can be phantom. Do you have a trainer and can you ride it while someone else listens for the sound?
Old 04-15-2021, 10:05 PM
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Grinding makes me think bearings.

I take it you inspected all the visible, exposed drive train parts for any visible wear.
Old 04-16-2021, 03:36 AM
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Loose bearings, although Shimano swears by them, are often the culprit. If a bearing wears, it will get cratering on the surface which can also affect the cup and cone. Easily resolved with a new inexpensive wheelset that uses RS-6000 sealed bearings or similar. Heck, my high end Swiss-DT rims use those bearings. Velomine.com has good prices on wheelsets.

It sounds like the bike is a low price point bike which means that the LBS is not going to do backflips to fix it.

For the BB, if it uses loose bearings, have the LBS change it with a cartridge version. Something along the line of this.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ...0/BB-UN26.html
They are inexpensive and the first thing that I change on cheap bikes that use loose bearing BBs.

Old 04-16-2021, 03:50 AM
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That happened to my Trek it was the bearings went bad the store said they had never seen that before. They replaced it for free
Old 04-16-2021, 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Sprockets View Post
This may sound stupid simple, but try loosening the seat post and apply a little grease on the post where it enters the tube. I get a creaking sound and this is always the issue.
I had the same thing on an older Rockhopper. Thought it was the pedals, bottom bracket, cracked frame, etc. Nope. Squeaky seat post. I added a little grease and tightened the clamp. Solved.
Old 04-16-2021, 04:36 AM
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Agree you have to look at bracket. After that, it gets hard. I assume you can eliminate chain/cassette/derailer pretty easily, I like the seat post idea. also check out the headset. Without hearing it, creaking "might" sound like grinding? Honestly, the fact that the bike shop can't figure it out fast tells me you need a new bike shop. Its pretty basic stuff, but impossible to fix on a computer screen.

Old 04-16-2021, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mitchell master View Post
Change out the Spacely sprockets for some Cogswell cogs.
the good old days
Old 04-16-2021, 04:44 AM
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Not related to your problem but bicycle repair shops(at least here in my area) want a fortune to do any work on them, basic tune up is over $100, advance tune is $200+ I guess it goes with everything being expensive these days. I had a problem with a front detailer, bought a bike stand for $100 and new derailleur for $20, fixed problem with new part. Took me a few minutes to watch a Youtube vid on the repair too.
Old 04-16-2021, 04:46 AM
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Sounds like BB to me.
Old 04-16-2021, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Still Stoked View Post
Is the chain line straight? Derailleur alignment? Is the chain compatible with the other components?
this is my vote! sounds like the shifting needs to be adjusted slightly. meaning the chain is slightly out of alignment
Old 04-16-2021, 04:58 AM
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BB or cranks

can you post a photo of that area on your bike
Old 04-16-2021, 05:18 AM
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Thanks for the comments. The bike was around $550 and our local bike shop seems genuinely disinterested in looking at it.

I’m getting an audible grinding sound but what bothers me most is the crunching and popping I can feel through my feet when pedaling. It just feels nasty and is definitely worse when under heavier loads.

I have everything aligned so that the chain is straight on the 3rd cog. In 3rd gear, I get the least amount of grinding. When I switch up to 4th gear, the grinding is really bad. It’s weird that there’s that big of a difference with just one gear change. It’s never perfectly smooth regardless of which gear I’m in.

I’m currently using a 6,7,8 speed chain with an 8 speed SRAM cassette. The chain is a KMC X8. I’ve also tried the KMC Z7, a narrower Z9, and a Zonkie 6,7,8. I tried the Z9 thinking the narrower chain might give a bit more clearance on the cassette. Nothing changed.

I’m wondering if there is an alignment issue with the front chainring and rear cassette. Not a setup alignment but more like a manufacturing defect where they are not in alignment.

I really like this bike and really want it fixed.

Old 04-16-2021, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshPtJudith View Post
BB or cranks

can you post a photo of that area on your bike
Will take photos and will post later this morning. The BB is the one thing Iíve not messed with yet.
Old 04-16-2021, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by haneyrm View Post
I have a 2020 Specialized Roll and have had trouble with the bike making a crunchy grinding sound while pedaling since the day I picked it up from my LBS. I took it back the next day and they agreed that something was not right. They replaced the pedals, adjusted the RD and finally put a new KMC chain on it before declaring it perfect.

I rode it around the parking lot a few times and while the crunchy grinding sound was a little better, it was still there.

Fast forward 9 months and Iíve had 4 different chains on the bike, replaced the Shimano Tourney junk cassette with a step up SRAM cassette, replaced the Tourney RD with an Altus, serviced the rear loose bearings at least 3 times, replaced the front chain ring and the bike is still as crunchy as ever. Only thing Iíve not done is pull the bottom bracket. When I remove the chain and spin the cranks, itís super smooth and spins for quite a while. Doesnít seem like the BB is the issue.

I bought this bike because it was stupidly simple. Has a 1x7 drive train, V brakes, etc. I wanted something simple so it was easy to maintain and was reliable. This bike has definitely been one of the more frustrating purchases Iíve made in a long time.

Any ideas on where I might be able to find a bike guru that might be able to fix this thing once and for all? I live in Boca Grande but am in Sarasota a few times per week.

I bought a new Sirrus X 4.0 today and itís so smooth, itís reignited my determination to get this funky little Roll fixed. I like the bike but hate the crunchy.
It sounds like you've ruled out most of the drivetrain - assuming the LBS adjusted the rear derailleur correctly. It shifts fine, right?

What worries me is the rear hub. You serviced it 3X already! Sounds like you may gave gotten a dud. Or the cone nuts are too tight. The specs say:
"Alloy, 7-speed freewheel, v-brake, loose ball bearings, quick-release, 36h"

If that is correct, these can be tricky to adjust. The difference between just right and too loose or tight is not much.

I suppose it could be the bottom bracket but I doubt it. Looks like you have a "BSA, square taper, cartridge bearings". Is this correct? If so, then I'm leaning toward your rear hub again.

You have an odd combination of parts in your drivetrain. Shimano derailleur and shifter. SRAM cassette. KMC chain. Not saying those can't all play happily together but there is a reason to use the same groupset - to eliminate compatibility issues. What kind of SRAM cassette? It shouldn't cause major problems but kind of an odd choice for a mostly Shimano drivetrain. I hope it doesn't have narrow-wide teeth.

Lastly, does the sound happen when pedaling straight or only on turns? Could be your headset needs adjusted. Doubtful but grasping at straws.

One way to diagnose would be to put the bike on a stationary trainer and have another person use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen to the bottom bracket and rear hub - while you are pedaling a decent size gear. Feather the rear brake so you mimic being under load.

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