patching drywall?

Old 02-06-2007, 10:40 PM
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- Your idea and method is fine if one has got all the time in the world to fart around with glue. Jobbers or contractors don't have that luxury of time.....there's no money in it.
- Your idea and method of using drywall as a backer is fine if there isn't any wood around, steel studding works just as good if that's what's laying around. Instead of using glue when working with drywall backers one would just add a few extra screws top and bottom.

Cooper - 2/6/2007 10:24 PM

WOW! TONS of great replies. The patched areas will really be all over the place. Some are on the ceiling, some on normal walls but behind things (like the fridge), others on normal walls but exposed, and others behind cabinets. The ceiling is probably the biggest job because I knocked down a wall and am joining the ceilings in two rooms.
IMO ALL repairs are done with the same approach, the only difference is the degree of finish one applies. Any repair that will be behind a kitchen cabinet should only get a patch and tape coat. Behind tiling, a patch, tape coat and a second coat. All other repairs will receive the patch, tape coat and two additional a third coat if it needs it.

Another dumb question: why are square holes easier to patch?
It all boils down to time.

Since you have many hole to patch:
- Grab your key hole saw (in this case drywall saw) cut ALL your round hole to a square or a rectangular.
- Grab a handful of drywall screws and your pieces of backing wood and screw your backing strips into all your holes.
- Grab your utility knife and scrap pieces of drywall and start making patches.....leave each patch on the floor for the all your patches.
- Grab more screws and screw on all your patches.
- Take your utility knife and cut out the drywall paper so your first coat and tape will be countersunk.
* for a lot of holes this would be the fastest!

Grey area is your access hole.
Blue rectangle is the cut out area ready for your patch.
The red highlighted box is your scrap piece for making your patch.

- Stick your scrap piece of drywall into the corner marked "A".
- Mark with a pencil or your utility knife at "B".
- Slide scrap piece up so corner "C" lines up with cut out hole.
- Mark with a pencil or your utility knife at "D".
- Then do this for the other two corners.
- Score with your utility knife between point ďB and DĒ, break and cut off extra.
- Repeat for the other two corners took me far longer to type this out then it would have taken me to cut out a snug fitting patch! Thatís why square or rectangular patches are easy......they are FAST to make!
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:45 PM
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Default Re: patching drywall?

Garett, thanks for taking the time to explain. I'll post some pictures as soon as there's anything to show.
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Old 02-06-2007, 11:42 PM
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Default Re: patching drywall?

Either Garett is in the drywall biz or he has a habit of losing his temper... In either case, his advice is solid.
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:47 AM
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Think as me as the Karate Kid!

Yah Iíve repaired a few.....if I've repaired one hole I've repaired at least a thousand.......I used to moonlight as a drywall repair person on weekends for years - new home construction.

Oh, one point I should have made which I didn't. When applying your mud and paper tape on your patches, DON'T over lap your tape in the corners! The extra thickness of the second layer of tape and mud is enough to give you grief when sanding things'll show as a high point! So only butt joint your tape in the corners.

If you really want to shave time off of your repair time, instead of using drywall compound, work with plaster. With plaster you can do your tape coat and finish coat all without having to come back a second or third just need to have a good eye and feel for what the trowel is doing.

greyg8r - 2/6/2007 6:02 PM

Garett: I assume that the two studs are two 1x2 firring strips that you stuck on the inside of the drywall and not the actual studs of the wall, right? Otherwise, he's gonna have to really expand the existing hole.
It really doesnít matter what you use back there as long as you can fit it in the hole and it holds screws....Iíve even ripped strips out of 1/4" plywood paneling. My only criteria is I want to see the wood backing plate hold two screws on the top and bottom of the wall before a patch is applied. Materials such as trimming shims are of poor choice because screws will split the wood. Another consistently poor choice is 1/4"x 2" tends to split from all the screws, especially on smaller patches. 1 x 2" or 1 x 3" is my favorite depending on the size of the holes. 2 x 4's is my choice on holes 2' or longer.

This is a common repair:
When doing door handle holes in the drywall: I like to cut out the area large enough so I can get a 2 x 4 right in the exact place where the door handle hole was. Here I would sink 3 or 4 screws in through the drywall on the top and bottom to hold the wood backer. After the repair is done that door handle can NEVER go through the wall again, dent it yes, but not make another hole.
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Old 02-07-2007, 08:30 AM
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I often use "Hot patches".

A)Cut the existing hole rectangular,
B)Cut a new piece of sheetrock approx. 2" bigger in each direction than the cutout.
C)Turn the piece to patch with OVER, carefully remove 1" of sheetrock FROM THE FACE PAPER, leaving a 1" strip of the face paper clean. This will become your "tape"
D)Put mud (sheetrock pucky) around the cutout, apply the patch, and press the paper edge down just like tape.
E)Finish as required
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:11 PM
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Here's a few other variables that seem to pop up and how to quickly deal with them.

Sometimes your busted out area crosses over a stud: IMO it is a waste of time to try and cut your drywall down the vertical center of a stud to give you a clean straight line, just cut horizontally across it and make the patch bigger. Remember a patch is a patch regardless of how big or small it is, they all take about the same amount of time to repair.

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Old 02-07-2007, 02:23 PM
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billinstuart - 2/7/2007 9:30 AM I often use "Hot patches". A)Cut the existing hole rectangular, B)Cut a new piece of sheetrock approx. 2" bigger in each direction than the cutout. C)Turn the piece to patch with OVER, carefully remove 1" of sheetrock FROM THE FACE PAPER, leaving a 1" strip of the face paper clean. This will become your "tape" D)Put mud (sheetrock pucky) around the cutout, apply the patch, and press the paper edge down just like tape. E)Finish as required
I refer to these as "blow out" patches and they work great too! [img]../images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:26 PM
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Garett, excellent advice and illustrations.

In my 73 years Iíve patched a ton of drywall holes using your exact process. You made it real easy for a first timer to do a reasonably great job.

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Old 02-07-2007, 08:20 PM
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Im a fan of the unikal on blueboard theory. 2 guys can hang and skimcoat 15 sheets in a day and it will be a perfect job with no sanding. You should wait 2 weks to paint though. It would cost about 500 - 600 in labor + materials.
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Old 02-07-2007, 09:55 PM
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Default Re: patching drywall?

Garett, you've given some great advice on patching. Now, can you enlighten us on a technique to get a decent finish (skim coat)? I have a perfect place to practice: my daughter's garage was rocked and taped, but nothing more. It's just a garage, but if she wanted it painted, it should be prepped better. I was thinking of giving it a try.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:01 PM
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when i patched up my heating vents I just cut back till I found a stud on each side cut a piece to fit screwed it in place and spackled it came out like new
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:44 PM
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CaptWill - 2/7/2007 9:55 PM

Garett, you've given some great advice on patching. Now, can you enlighten us on a technique to get a decent finish (skim coat)? I have a perfect place to practice: my daughter's garage was rocked and taped, but nothing more. It's just a garage, but if she wanted it painted, it should be prepped better. I was thinking of giving it a try.
Capt, I always had luck with a 12" trowel, a little Dawn detergent mixed in to kill the bubbles and go thin and wide. Many concentrate on the 6-8" areas around the joints, thinking the wider you go, the more work it is in sanding, etc.

I go 12" to 18" wide when I can, but very thin. You want to barely have to sand the last coat. Depending upon how well coats 1 and 2 went, I might rough sand the 2nd coat to get rid of the snot. And that makes coat 3 that much better. The Dawn was a trick I learned from a guy who finished my attic.

I have also primed the wall after the 2nd coat to get a preview on how it'll look. Then I know what I need to do on coat 3. Nothing worse than thinking you're finished, you paint, and then you have more patching to do on your nicly painted wall.

But I'm sure Garett's gonna teach me a thing or two. Good thing my wife won't see this. I don't need her to put more things on the honey-do.
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:46 PM
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double post
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:24 AM
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Now I know I don't need any pictures of your daughter's garage to know what the first coat looks like, but I would like to see a few pictures of the tape job to see if the guys did the tape job with a boot or a putty knife......some jobs are so bad one would swear the person was in the boot at the time the boot was used!

Give me a little bit, I'm typing something out for you.


Now I'm not sure on how you are using your numbers? When I refer to 8", I am referring to approx. 8" out on both sides of the joint. If you are doing 12 to 18" out on both sides of the joint then I'd say this to yah:
1) you possibly built the joint up to high at the seam in the first place and therefore you need to flare it out that much?
2) you add a great deal of time to your tape job but flaring it out so much....application wise.
3) you greatly add to the cost of materials used by flaring it out so much.
4) you greatly add to your sanding time by flaring it out so much, plus you will use more sand paper which costs money.

There is a "but" to all this, when doing butt joints the wider the flaring is the smoother the appearance will you know the butt ends of the drywall are not recessed, therefore more flaring is needed.....but "I" would still not do 12 to 18" x 2. At most I'll do is a total of 9" x 2 giving me a total seam of 18".
When doing edge joints the wide seams are not be needed if the tape coat (dried) and the first coat (dried) are done to give you basically a flush finish with the face of the drywall. The last coat is only there to fill any voids in the recess which was not filled by the first coat, to fill any imperfections in the first coat and to gently flare things out.

I'll be covering this in more detail when I get Will's reply together.
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:51 AM
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Garett, I'm talking about 12-18" total (so 6-9" from the seam on either side. So we're talking about the same thing -- me not as well.

You should set up a THT webinar so we can all log in and have you teach us. I can alsways use more advice.
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:05 PM
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Last summer's project was redoing the entire kitchen- remove cabinents, ceiling, soffit, floor, all new applicances, new lighting, re-route some plumbing. We did it ourselves, only hired out for a few minor things- plaster work, someone to lay the tile.

I ended up learning that replacing the drywall in larger /sections sheets was a heck of a lot easier, and also kept me from having to sand the wall down when hanging the cabinets. As outlined in some of the drawings, just remove the drywall exposing 1/2 the width of the studs, make sure you remove it in a nice square or rectangular pattern, then replace with a fresh sheet. Much cleaner to do it that way as well, also allows you to shim that drywall if needed to make sure your walls are vertical. Nothing more frustrated then to start hanging your cabients, only to find out that they will not be plumb down the line.
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Old 02-09-2007, 12:21 AM
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Oh you wouldn't believe what I just deleted.
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:32 PM
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The real key to good success with taping is understand how to use the tool in your hands, not so much the tools you have in your hand. Any of the below tools will do a fine job if the person using them knows how to work with them.

1) - Standard Putty Knife:

2) - Drywall Putty Knife:

3) - Trowel:

4) - Compound Mud Pan:

5) - Hawk:

5a) - Hawk:

6) - Corner Bead Tool

I myself like to work with a 3 , 5 , 6 putty knife, a 11 trowel, pulling my mud off of a hawk and a corner trowel.

Some tapers will not use a trowel (#3), instead they will use a large drywall putty knife (#2).....these come in just about any size you could imagine. IMO this is only a preference thing on which tool you use....itís all what you get used to, there is no advantages or disadvantage either way IMO.

Some tapers like to use a mud pan over a hawk so they can put the tool down without the mud sliding off. I really donít care for the pan myself, I find it harder to keep the crappy lumpy material away from the good material/ mud. With a pan I have found on occasion knocking some of the older drying compound on the sides into the good mud below....which is a pain in the ars A hawk I find it much easier to keep the good and bad material separate.

If you buy a pan, buy a full metal pan over the cheap plastic pans with metal edge inserts. With the plastic pans with the metal edge, at the edge there is a lip which allows mud to harden. This drying mud can find itís way onto your putty knife or back into the pan of mud.

Personally I donít much care for pans of any kind because I find it a pain in the ars to keep 100% of the mud in the bottom of the pan. If 100% of the mud isnít in the bottom of the pan then some is on the sides where it has a chance to start drying....small quantities of mud dries quite quickly.....dried clumpies of mud in your good mud is a pain in the ars. These bits of dried mud in good mud gives you what I call slug trails. Slug trails found in a pass cause the person to start farting around which equals time and money. With a hawk I find it ten times easier to keep the one surface clean and organized then it is the four inside sides of a pan. IMO the pan is only good for holding a liquid de-greaser for soaking small engine parts.

Some hawks have circles etched into the flat aluminum face of the tool, whereas other hawks have a smooth surface. The idea behind the etched circles is to aid in stopping the mud from sliding off the hawk. IMO that is a crock, it doesnít stop jack, it only provides a place for mud to sit and dry. Yes the area is very small, but once the mud is in there and it dries, well then you have a smooth flat hawk anyways. Oh, and so you know, washing up a smooth hawk is much easier.

mb_24, you mentioned that you like to sand in between your second and third coat, well instead of sanding just push your wide putty knife along apposed to dragging it along the dried compound. One itís faster then sanding, two you donít make the dust and three you donít remove material from areas which you are trying to fill....sandpaper costs money. The sharp edge of you knife will cut any lumps that are sticking up as you push your knife along, you will only target the areas which need attention.....time saver and no dust

My order when tapping from scratch:

A) - I start with a 3" and a 5 Richards (#1) in my hand to lay down my mud and tape, then remove the excess mud with the same tool.

B) - My second coat Iíll use a 6 Richards (still #1) for a single pass....covering over the center line (seam) and filling any void . The 6 nicely bridges the recess of the drywall.

C) - My last coat Iíll hit the area with two passes of my 11 Marshall trowel (#3) high and one low of the center line (seam).

D) - ďIfĒ I need to do a last coat it is only spot repair after Iíve sanded to deal with air bubbles......Iíll either use my 3 or my 5 Richards (#1) for these repairs.

In the picture below you see a typical putty knife.....the picture applies to any sized putty knife or trowel for that matter. When the putty knife is held at a 90į to a flat surface the edge of the blade can only give the user a true flat scrape, provided the blade edge is true. When held at an angle the blade will flex to irregular surfaces. The greater the angle the knife is held at the greater the flex properties the blade will offer. One can always apply pressure to one side of the blade more than the other and this will force the blade to flex.....this practice is great for tapering out the outer edges of the compound where it meets the drywall This is why I mentioned earlier, ďitís not the tools which make the job, itís the hands which are working the toolsĒ. The tapper must understand what it is they want to achieve per what stage of the job they are at and use the flex of the blade to their advantage.

In this next picture you see mud loaded onto a putty knife. When applying mud to the seam (horizontally or vertically) drag your knife along in the direction of the arrows. You will be holding your knife at a very low angle - 10 to 25į and reducing it as you move along....your actions is to be depositing the mud not spreading it out.

After you lay down your mud clean your putty knife off on your hawk and then drag your putty knife along as shown below....this will nicely spread it out.

Dealing with the recess of two sheets edge to edge:
* Deal with each run of tape as a separate job....the room is filled with many jobs.
* I cut ALL my tape lengths and drop them on the floor where I am going to use them before I even get out the mud.

First Coat:

When I lay down mud, tape, mud I will use my 5 . I use this tool at no greater than a 45į angle.
- As I deposit the mud on the first pass my intension is to not only deposit the mud but also to squeeze the mud into the seam between the two sheets.
- After I have laid down a bed of mud and do a smoothing out pass I will quickly laying down my tape and follow it up with my 3" putty knife.
* I am only applying enough pressure on the 3" to cause the tape to stick to the mud and not fall off.
- Then I will follow up the tape seam with my 5" at 10 to 25į angle, here I am seating the tape.
* with this step you donít want to apply so much pressure that you remove all of the mud under the tape, but you want to apply enough pressure that your tape doesnít look billowy, you want the tape to have a smooth flat appearance.
- then apply another layer of mud on top of the tape and trowel if off.
* with this pass I will use my knife at a low angle as well - 10 to 25į. I want to remove pretty much everything I just put on there....this coat is only to seal in the tape in the mud....this is NOT a filler coat.
* The 5 blade will flex plenty when pressure is applied. I want to end up with smooth sides to the mud in the recess when it dries. No mud should be outside the recessed area.

Second Coat:

Next coat I will use my 6 . On this coat my intension is to ONLY fill the recess FLUSH WITH THE FACE of the drywall. I am NOT interested in my mud spreading outside the recessed area.

- First lay down a bead of mud along the seam.
- To fill the recess flush to the surface of the drywall I will hold my 6 closer to 90į, this way I am not following any contours, I am just adding material and making the mud flush with the drywall.
- Any excess mud that squirts out the sides of my 6 as I drag my knife along I will pick up after I have laid down my mud for the full length the tape seam.
* by dealing with the excess mud afterwards I get the best possible finish with my second coat application.
- When I go back to pick up the excess mud I will push my blade of the putty knife into the excess, that way I am not spreading it onto my second coat.....I want to pick up the excess onto the blade of the knife.
* have the blade of the knife slightly skewed away from the seam area when doing this. If any of this excess mud you just picked up is showing ANY signs of drying discard it, DO NOT mix it back in with the good mud
* ....scrap the dead mud off your knife on one of the clean sides of your hawk. Later when that mud becomes rubbery you can scrap it off onto the floor or into a box.
*** now if you were using a Mud Pan how would you deal with that scrap mud? Thatís why I like a hawk over the pan.

Third Coat:

Here is where I will pull out my 11 trowel (#3). Here your objective is to apply a very thin layer of mud over your now basically flush smooth tape seam. This coat is not intended to be filling any recess, it is really just flaring out the work youíve already done, plus providing a sanding barrier from the drywall paper. Any surface imperfections in your second coat will be picked up with this last skim coat.....this should not be considered a building coat, this is finish work.

Here your intension is NOT to lay down a full 11 bead of mud which your trowel is capable of, instead you only want to lay down approx. an 8 cover on both sides of your center line. Because you are laying down a double pass of mud (one high and one low of the center line/ seam) you have to try and not make it high centered at the center line and yet at the same time you want the furthest edge of the trowel (trailing edge) away from the center line to be dragging hard on the face of the drywall sheet. Here you want to be working with the flex in the blade of the trowel. By forcing the trailing edge of the trowel tight to the drywall surface you are effectively eliminating a ridge which will later need to be sanded smooth.
* for the novice there is no harm in only applying mud to only one half of this double pass. By only applying mud to just the one half and letting it dry it will make it much easier for you to follow up with the second pass....min. center ridge / min. sanding afterwards.


Your sanding strokes should be long and smooth, really there should be very little to sand off if the above is applied. When sanding you really only have three primary areas to focus on. One is the center line, is there a high center ridge which needs to be sanded off? Two and three would be your two outside edges of mud to where it meets the drywall sheet itself. These outer edges need to be sand out smooth to where the edge of mud starts to look transparent. By focusing your sanding intension to these three areas you will have close to effectively sanded the whole area.....I would do a few sanding passes over the entire area for good measure.
* I like to have a pencil tucked behind my ear at this stage, if I see an imperfection in the sanded mud I will circle it so later I can come back and touch it up.
* When working on sanding the three areas keep an eye out for not sanding through to the drywall paper at the recessed area....these could be high points depending on the brand of drywall you bought in the first place. If you sand through your mud down to the point of fluffing your drywall paper, circle it and touch it up afterwards with a thin skim coat. This thin coat will seal it in.

Corner Beads:

There is many ways to deal with taping and mudding corners. Hereís mine:

I start off looking at the room and decide which way I am going to address the corner tapping along with the tapping of the horizontal tape lines. Personally Iím not fond of farting around with trying to do a massive junction point all at much farting around in trying to get all directions good. So Iíll minimize my efforts down to only one direction at a time. In doing a room I will always start off by doing all my corner beads first, after I am done with my corner beads then I will deal with my horizontal seams and any butt joints I may have.

First Coat:

The use of the corner bead tool is a real time saver.

- Iíll lay down two beads of mud approx. 3 wide, one on each side of the corner. I would be working with my 6 knife.
- Then Iíll lightly drag my corner bead tool (corner trowel) along the length of the corner just to smooth out the mud that is there.
- Then Iíll lay my folded tape into the corner with just my hands...there is no problem with sticking.
* fold the tape before you lay it, life is easier that way.
- Then Iíll seat my tape with the corner tool.....some practice will be required to get the hang of the tool......just keep it clean because it is easier to work with it. Moderate pressure is used to set the tape into the corner. You donít want to squeezed out all the mud, but then again you still wan the corner to look like a corner.
- Then Iíll take my 6 and Iíll lay down another 3 coat of mud over both wall surfaces again.
- Then Iíll drag my corner tool over this again to remove the excess.
* on this pass I will be flexing the outer edges of the tool tight to the walls....I donít want to end up with a compound ridge

Second Coat:

Looking at a corner you have basically two halves, lets just say a left side and a right side. On my second coat I will only hit one half at a time with my 5 . In other words I will only apply mud to the left side of the two walls.....I will do the whole room that way. In applying this coat my objective is to lay down an approx. 3 bead with my 5 and flare it out to a 4 or 5 width. Remember to work with the flex of the want your trailing edge of the blade to be tight against the wall so you will have very little sanding to do afterwards. By the time I am done doing half of all my corners I will start over at the starting point and hit the other half of the corner with a second coat.....the first side is dry enough to easily work with.....the novice should probably hold off and let it dry, but this is not necessary. After I have done both halves of my corners I will turn my attention to dealing with the horizontal lines and butt joints.

When I do this second coat in my corners I take great care to do a good job, because ďmyĒ corners only take two coats Yes my method above does require some farting around, but IMO corners donít need a third coat, so the time I spend farting around I more then make up by not having to do a third coat I have found by using the corner tool and only applying two coats of mud in the corners I end up with very clean straight corner lines.................f#@k the wallpaper hangers I say heheehe

Sanding of Corner Beads:

Because I focused my attention on a proper installation of the mud in the first place my sanding of the corners only requires a minimum of sanding.....basically making sure where the compound meets the drywall is transparent I will take a stool and scrap my corners (wall to ceiling) with a 3 putty knife to make sure I have very clean crisp corners......corners to me are very important, it shows quality workmanship. Scraping corners with a putty knife I find that I get a much cleaner corner then if I tried to use sandpaper.

Butt Joints:

These are basically the same as edge joints except one needs to flare things out further. When I do them I try not to add to much meat to the seam itself....this only leads to more work afterwards, so keep the thickness of your coats to a min.. If I only have one butt joint to do IMO it is best to cut and remove the paper to provide a recess for the tape. If the butt joints are along a wall which you would end up constantly walking down I have always found by recessing the tape I end up with a great looking wall. * I will only do this for myself and if the job is paying good money! Any butt joint that you look at straight on is no big deal, flare it out and call it the day because it just wonít show. Either way with a butt joint I like to end up with a mud joint of about 24 in me there isnít much meat in this flared out 2' seam.

When you are skim coating such a large area how you hold the trowel or large putty knife really comes into play. The wider the blade the easier it is for the blade to flex. The more perpendicular the blade is to the surface the more tendency there is for the edges of the blade to cut into the mud giving you ridges. My advice for the novice is to apply several thinner coats working your way out from the center then it is to try and float the compound/ trowel....that comes with experience.....but then again anything can be sanded smooth!

Sanding a Butt Joint/ large area:

The best way to get consistent good results is to sand with mim. a pole sander or sand paper on a large block of wood. Sand in a ďXĒ pattern. By doing a few strokes this way and then a few strokes that way you remove the tendency of creating a wavy surface. Each time you go in the opposite direction you effectively cancel out any trenching you may have created because of poor sanding techniques.

IMO the key to successful taping, mudding and sanding of drywall is to know how to work with the flex in the tools in hand, apply the mud flat in the first place, do not apply to much mud at a time and sand it out properly without creating problems. I know I work off of the premise of a three coat job, but for the novice four or five coats shouldnít be overlooked. Taking you time in the first place allows you to develop good techniques which will carry you well.

Mixing of the Compound:

Regardless of what mixture of compound you use the content should always be mixed before use!

When Iím taping from scratch I will mix my compound differently per coat.
- For my tape coat I like my mud a little thinner then what comes in the box. I thin my mud with water. By thinning down my first coat mud I feel I get better bond between the mud and the paper.
- My second coat I want the fill so I will use the mud as it comes in the box.
- My last coat I will add a little water so my finish coat flows smoothly with the least amount of effort.
- Any touch up work I may have to do I like to use what I used for my third coat.
* Iíd love to be able to give you guys formulas, but I canít, I just eyeball it from what I see.

* Some say Dawn or Sunlight dish soap doesnít eliminate the air bubbles, others swear by it. I started out using it so I continue to use it out of practice/ habit. I do get bubbles from time to time especially when working on cold walls.

* I generally buy my compound in the box.....price attractive. If I know I am not going to use the full context of the box that day I will pull the bag and dump the contents into a re-sealable pail (5 gal.). Buying the mud in a box is cheaper then in a pail but you really have to watch out for the mud drying out on the plastic bag and falling back into the bag of mud With the mud in a pail it is easy to keep the inside sides of the pail clean.

* Since your mud is in a re-sealable plastic pail just add a few inches of water over top of it for storage will last forever without forming a shell on top of it.

* I have gotten into the habit of having a second smaller pail of mud (1 gal.), this pail of mud is great for doing smaller jobs which donít require me to be carrying around a ton of mud. Use the water and it will keep forever.

* I myself have gotten into a strong habit of washing and drying my drywall tools after every use. Tapers which do taping for a living generally donít worry about the condition of there tools when it comes to rust, but I do! I really donít like rusty tools
Garett is offline  
Old 02-09-2007, 06:55 PM
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Default RE: patching drywall?

Holy Crap! Garett, you have laid out a complete college course on drywall finishing! OMG, this thread is awesome. I will be following your advice, and tomorrow, if the house is open, (which she hasn't settled on yet), I will take some shots of the garage taping job. I've messed with this stuff years ago, but only doing it the way I thought I should. Never had any guidance. But, I still do have some of the tools. I have a #1, 2, 3 and 6, and one of those plastic trays with the metal edge that you like so much If I get into this project, I will most likely buy a smooth hawk. Anything that will help make the job go 'smoother' would be a worthwhile investment.

Thanks again to you, and the others, who have offered up some excellent advice here.
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Old 02-09-2007, 07:32 PM
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Default Re: patching drywall?

Not only is He good at drywall he is pretty good at the computer too.

I have learned a lot from this thread
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