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Check Engine Light On Again? Any Car Experts?

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Check Engine Light On Again? Any Car Experts?

Old 06-10-2019, 05:51 AM
  #41  
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Just drive it unless the light on the dash bothers you. My check engine light has been on for 5 years,
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Melville84 View Post
Just drive it unless the light on the dash bothers you. My check engine light has been on for 5 years,
Bad advice.
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Melville84 View Post
Just drive it unless the light on the dash bothers you. My check engine light has been on for 5 years,
this can result in poor performance and shitty fuel economy! then you would turn around and bitch about how horrible the vehicle is!

as bill mentioned, horrible advice!
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:21 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by simeoncoleman View Post
In the 16 years I've been working on cars I've never had a hard code delete itself after the problem has been fixed.
How codes can clear themselves varies by the code type and the OEM. Most will clear as an active code as soon as a test pass is complete, but they will stay in history. How long they stay in history also varies, but the OEM I worked at kept them for 40 "trips" and the definition of a trip is in the OBD regs (not just a key start and turn off).

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Old 06-10-2019, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Melville84 View Post
Just drive it unless the light on the dash bothers you. My check engine light has been on for 5 years,
Sometimes you can drive with the light on forever and it will do no harm. Sometimes it will kill the cat converter, impact fuel economy and performance, and create other problems.

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Old 06-10-2019, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Melville84 View Post
Just drive it unless the light on the dash bothers you. My check engine light has been on for 5 years,
Depending on the code. I had one that indicated a problem with one of the cats which I wasn't about to replace. I drove it for another 150K with the light on without any performance problems.
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:53 AM
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I'm a former Master GM tech.(20 yrs) I've seen this too many times. Replace the air filter with a AC Delco brand, also making sure the air filter box is properly sealed.
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:22 AM
  #48  
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I am sure that the one BMW we owned (everyone should own one once) had the Check Engine Light illuminated as a standard feature from the factory!
You could sneeze and a damn dash light would come on. They should have just made it a dollar symbol!
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:48 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by jcassara View Post
BUT it all started with an air filter change !!!!! What prompted you to change the air filter? Time? then all the codes came. Check the last thing you changed out first!

Check the air filter box, lid, seal surface for dirt, cracks leaks. If you have all the old parts replace them and start over.
I just had this issue with my daughter's car. It turned out the clip holding the air cleaner cover popped off and caused an air leak. She took it to a local mechanic and he wanted $600 to replace the MAF sensor. I took it to my mechanic and he fixed it for $30. She so happened to have paperwork in her glove box from the rip off mechanic. We reviewed them and found he ripped her off a few times in the past on parts that weren't broken or needed replaced. 2K worth on an 18 year old car. Luckily her mother (my ex) paid for those "repairs". I've paid for many, but only if I use my mechanic.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:15 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by billinstuart View Post
"Soft" code if it clears itself. Why did you change the MAF?
After I changed the air filter-which by the way was fairly dirty--within 1 day the CEL came on and it was diagnosed as a MAF code, that is why it was replaced.

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Old 06-10-2019, 05:18 PM
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Now I just rechecked the air filter box and lo and behold one of the air box screws was not screwed in very tightly so I tightened it up, who knows if that is the issue.I am due to receive the new AC Delco MAF sensor tomorrow and plan on swapping it out soon.

Thanks for all of the information once again. At some point I do need to get an OBDII code reader but am currently out of town traveling.
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Old 06-11-2019, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SeekingStripers View Post
Now I just rechecked the air filter box and lo and behold one of the air box screws was not screwed in very tightly so I tightened it up, who knows if that is the issue.I am due to receive the new AC Delco MAF sensor tomorrow and plan on swapping it out soon.

Thanks for all of the information once again. At some point I do need to get an OBDII code reader but am currently out of town traveling.
I bet the loose screw was the issue. I would reset the codes by disconnecting the battery. Drive for a while and see if it returns. The leak on my daughters car was a tiny crack. It's enough to throw off the sensors. Keep us posted.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:08 AM
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Jesus, this is why I drive a Toyota. Not even sure it has a check engine light
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SHE GONE View Post
Jesus, this is why I drive a Toyota. Not even sure it has a check engine light
Rest assured that it does. When it's time to drink from that bottle, the waiter has you sniff the cork and analyze the wine trails. Then you pay for the bottle.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by SHE GONE View Post
Jesus, this is why I drive a Toyota. Not even sure it has a check engine light
You have to have an engine in order to have a Check engine light. LOL.

Funny how toyota owners are so proud of their yodas while toyota is haveing BMW make their new flagship Supra. I bet that ones gonna have a CEL. LOL
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:52 AM
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Best to slow down and stop swapping parts. Many times a sensor is not failed even though you get a "code" that says it is. One has to understand the programming of the ECU and the test/trigger points that throw the codes. For example, an exhaust leak can through a lean code. A failed O2 sensor can cause bucking/stalling/drivability issues and not throw a code at all. A shorted MAP sensor could also cause failures in other sensors if it's messing up the 5v reference signal.

Usually the root cause of the problem is simple and just one component. Wiring and connectors on modern cars are pretty robust provided it's in original condition and a monkey mechanic wasn't in there "fixing" it. Swappnig parts based purely on codes will probably be effective 25% of the time. You need data and to analyze.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 1blueheron View Post
You have to have an engine in order to have a Check engine light. LOL.

Funny how toyota owners are so proud of their yodas while toyota is haveing BMW make their new flagship Supra. I bet that ones gonna have a CEL. LOL
Ehh, I have a gen 2 tacoma 2013, there's one (same truck) at the dealership less than a mile from my house listed at 29,000 with twice the miles as mine. It will be sold before Saturday. I don't care about girl cars.
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SHE GONE View Post
Ehh, I have a gen 2 tacoma 2013, there's one (same truck) at the dealership less than a mile from my house listed at 29,000 with twice the miles as mine. It will be sold before Saturday. I don't care about girl cars.

real trucks dont have spark plugs!
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by johnny.dollar View Post
Best to slow down and stop swapping parts. Many times a sensor is not failed even though you get a "code" that says it is. One has to understand the programming of the ECU and the test/trigger points that throw the codes. For example, an exhaust leak can through a lean code. A failed O2 sensor can cause bucking/stalling/drivability issues and not throw a code at all. A shorted MAP sensor could also cause failures in other sensors if it's messing up the 5v reference signal.

Usually the root cause of the problem is simple and just one component. Wiring and connectors on modern cars are pretty robust provided it's in original condition and a monkey mechanic wasn't in there "fixing" it. Swappnig parts based purely on codes will probably be effective 25% of the time. You need data and to analyze.
this is the correct answer!
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:25 PM
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Step 1: Stop replacing parts and guessing what is happening.
Step 2: either get yourself a reader that can give you some data, or bring your vehicle to someone that can supply you with some live data,

Info needed when vehicle is in Closed Loop:
MAF readings:
at idle ___________
at 2500rpms ________

Short Term Fuel Trim ________
Long Term Fuel Trim __________

O2 Sensor mv readings ___________

What does Bank1 Sensor 1 read compared to Bank 1 Sensor 2? Does it follow it? Is it flat lined?

After replacing any emission or engine control parts, it is a good idea to reset all adaptives so you have a baseline for further diagnosis.
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