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Mower Blades

Old 05-03-2019, 08:17 AM
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Default Mower Blades

Hey guys. I love that I don't have to join 28 different forums and can just ask all my random things here and get answers!

I have a triple blade, 60" mower deck on my tractor. I have a fair amount of "rough areas" that I need to mow that will probably wear down blades fairly easily compared to fresh grass. I have a new set of blades for when its time to just mow grass, but I figured I'd use the old ones for the rough stuff.

Question is, do you think in this application it would be OK to sharpen from both sides of the blade? I'd just need to sharpen the bottoms a bit, but they are so worn that it would take off a ton of material if I were to try and sharpen completely from the bevel side. I'm not mowing "grass" with this, but mostly weeds, leaves, and small sticks. If I sharpen both sides, I can get a nice sharp edge. Otherwise it'll be kinda rounded and dull.

Thanks!
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:21 AM
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if they are that bad just replace them and start fresh!
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:24 AM
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They are designed to be sharpened from that one edge. Keep at least 2 sets and swap out periodically to sharpen, balance. Replace as needed. They are a wear item meant to wear and be replaced.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:25 AM
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When you sharpen, make the bevel more blunt if you're cutting the junk you described. A sharper bevel will dull quickly due to the thinner cutting edge.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:25 AM
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Take off what’s required on the already beveled edge. Then just a light touch from the bottom to remove the burr.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:32 AM
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Single bevel on mower blades. I keep two sets and change them every 10 hours (10 cuttings for me) and clean the deck bottom then. Allows me to sharpen them much less aggressively. I use either a belt sander or file. Having 2 sets in rotation insures I never get delayed having to sharpen them on short notice.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:39 AM
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Buy a 1 X 30 belt grinder from Harbor Freight (about$55) along with 3-4 belts of varying grit. Remove the platen, and sharpen the blades yourself in a few minutes. As one poster mentioned, do not get them razor sharp or they dull quickly. Mower blades are or should be balanced, so be mindful of removing too much material in any case.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:39 AM
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Not to hijack the thread. I recently bought a cub cadet zero turn. Anyone have any experience/opinion on low lift mower blades. My yard is sandy in areas and the dust is brutal. Plus it's washing out the bases around my pine trees.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by blaineC View Post
Buy a 1 X 30 belt grinder from Harbor Freight (about$55) along with 3-4 belts of varying grit. Remove the platen, and sharpen the blades yourself in a few minutes. As one poster mentioned, do not get them razor sharp or they dull quickly. Mower blades are or should be balanced, so be mindful of removing too much material in any case.

I have a 4" belt sander that I use, and it works great to sharpen blades. I know you're not "supposed" to sharpen both sides, but didn't really know why. Just seemed like a shame to beat on some brand new blades if I could get some more use from the old ones. I guess I'll just sharpen them the best I can from the top (and balance them) and have at it. I'll put on the fresh ones when its lawn time.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:58 AM
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I am thinking the bevel being on one side helps lift the grass /leaves up while cutting,
but for just crunching up leaves, sticks and cutting weeds you can sharpen the blades any what you want.

most blades have a little bend/twist to them also to help with lifting
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by FL.flatback 222 View Post
Not to hijack the thread. I recently bought a cub cadet zero turn. Anyone have any experience/opinion on low lift mower blades. My yard is sandy in areas and the dust is brutal. Plus it's washing out the bases around my pine trees.
try a set of low lift if you can find them and see how they work
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:07 AM
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I think you answered your own question. Just use the ones that are on it now and after you dull the more and scalp the ground switch out. Unless you have a large amount of standing weeds dont worry. There is a reason you never sharpen bush hog blades. When you have it under control then you can sharpen and thin down your blades. 2 cents
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:51 AM
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I agree with those that said to just do the one side, that's what I do, but I also do give a quick once over on the back side to remover any burrs that "might" be there.

But look at it this way, "any" sharpening you do will certainly increase the cutting ability of your mower. Last fall were you cutting the weeds or just knocking them over....I suspect you were cutting them, so.....

Now this one I really like, if your blades are dull, turn up the RPM's
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Old 05-03-2019, 11:06 AM
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Sharpen from 1 side only. Once you have them sharp, take a hand file and knock the edge down flat to about 1/64. If you try to cut with a razor sharp blade, the instant it hits the grass its gonna fold that edge over and be dull again. It'll also chip and nick more. You will get much longer life between sharpenings if you knock off the edge
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Old 05-03-2019, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kawakx125 View Post
Sharpen from 1 side only. Once you have them sharp, take a hand file and knock the edge down flat to about 1/64. If you try to cut with a razor sharp blade, the instant it hits the grass its gonna fold that edge over and be dull again. It'll also chip and nick more. You will get much longer life between sharpenings if you knock off the edge
you must have some tough as$ grass to bend steel
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 99yam40 View Post
try a set of low lift if you can find them and see how they work
i had a big issue with losing topsoil due to the factory installed high-lift blades on my Ferris zero turn. I got a set of zero/no lift blades and couldn’t be happier. Very little dust when mowing in even the driest conditions, much quieter when mowing, and less stress on the belts, pulleys, and engine.
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Old 05-04-2019, 07:48 AM
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Seems counterintuitive, but a rotary mower blade should have .008-.010" flat leading edge.
This serves two purposes - makes the blade more robust and gives the blade two leading cutting edges.
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Old 05-04-2019, 08:57 AM
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Been cutting this yard for 10 years. It still has "rough seas". I replace my blades at least once /year and have done so for the past 10 years. As other said, they are a wear item and need to be replaced periodically. I usually get to sharpen mine one time and after that, there's not enough metal left to sharpen.
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Basketcase View Post
Hey guys. I love that I don't have to join 28 different forums and can just ask all my random things here and get answers!

I have a triple blade, 60" mower deck on my tractor. I have a fair amount of "rough areas" that I need to mow that will probably wear down blades fairly easily compared to fresh grass. I have a new set of blades for when its time to just mow grass, but I figured I'd use the old ones for the rough stuff.

Question is, do you think in this application it would be OK to sharpen from both sides of the blade? I'd just need to sharpen the bottoms a bit, but they are so worn that it would take off a ton of material if I were to try and sharpen completely from the bevel side. I'm not mowing "grass" with this, but mostly weeds, leaves, and small sticks. If I sharpen both sides, I can get a nice sharp edge. Otherwise it'll be kinda rounded and dull.

Thanks!
If you have a tractor, why aren’t you using a rotary cutter for this?
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:38 AM
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Sounds like your blades are pretty much junk so go with it. Should be able to get blades for about 10 bucks a peice so you wont be out a bunch of money. On the idea of not sharpening them, sharpen them up. If they get dull then so be it but for the first couple hours if will cut much better.

I've always sharpened to be sharp enough to cut my finger. If they chip then it will be no more than if I never sharpened them and they were rounded bad.
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