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Need Help - Custom Fairing

Old 02-21-2019, 06:45 PM
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Default Need Help - Custom Fairing

I bought a Simrad/Lowrance 3D structure scan transducer to mount on the transom of my boat. This thing is huge and with the bracket, it would make the bottom of the transducer hang nearly 3” below the bottom of the hull if I mounted on the transom. I have an Armstrong bracket, so there is only a couple of inches of space between the keel and the bottom of the bracket (pictures attached below). I looked at mounting the transducer to the bracket between the two motors, but I am worried about interference. The transducer is nearly 11” long and when turned full to one side the motor would almost hit the ducer. With this being said, I have come to the point that I think the best solution would be to mount to the bottom of the bracket near the keel. The bracket has a pitch of 22 degrees left to right and 8 degrees front to back. I was thinking of making a custom fairing out of poly resin. I would cut the block I need from a 4x4 and then make a mold around the wood to eventually strip and then pour the resin in. I have never done something like this before, so what would be a good mold material? I read that modeling clay is an option, anything else? I want to cast a couple of SS bolts into the fairing to bolt through the bottom of my bracket. I’m thinking that might be hard to do with a clay mold. It would be nice to have a mold that I could tool or drill through because I also have the cable coming off the ducer I have to deal with.

Last edited by Ben W; 02-21-2019 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:51 PM
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Can’t get pictures to upload from iPad, not sure what the deal is. Will upload from computer in the morning.
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Old 02-22-2019, 02:24 AM
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svu
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painted plywood or masonite.id reinforce thevredin with some glass.
a better solution for better high speed performance would be to flush mount it by building a glass housing inside the hull around the transducer.
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Last edited by svu; 02-22-2019 at 03:12 AM. Reason: Add
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by svu View Post
painted plywood or masonite.id reinforce thevredin with some glass.
a better solution for better high speed performance would be to flush mount it by building a glass housing inside the hull around the transducer.
Yea, I don't think I am going to get much high speed performance out of a structure scan transducer. My primary sonar transducer is glassed into the keel, so that option is taken up by that transducer. I might try the Masonite idea, at least that's easy to cut and work with. Here are a couple of pictures of my bracket.




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Old 02-22-2019, 02:14 PM
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I have the Navico LSS-2 connected to my EvO2 system mounted right on the keel between the engines up front. Great picture and I read bottom up here at 25kts and up to 250' with no problems. This is on a 28 Carolina Classic and from the pics my keel is a little wider than yours so it might not work as well, but an option.
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Old 02-23-2019, 03:39 PM
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One more question before I go down this path, does anyone know if there is somewhere that sells really thick plastic blocks? I would need one at least 3”x3”x10”. I tried calling Boat Outfitters and they said they don’t have it that thick and couldn’t help me. Thanks
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Old 02-23-2019, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben W View Post
One more question before I go down this path, does anyone know if there is somewhere that sells really thick plastic blocks? I would need one at least 3”x3”x10”. I tried calling Boat Outfitters and they said they don’t have it that thick and couldn’t help me. Thanks
Call and see if someone has the fairing block that comes with the LSS2.
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Old 02-23-2019, 09:16 PM
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I used a block of thick black plastic lumber to build a fairing block, it’s used pretty extensively in dock construction, a worker gave me an off cut for free! I counter sunk a couple of silicone bronze carriage bolts, and used 5200 to stick and seal it up.
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:35 AM
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Have something welded to the bracket. This way no holes in it and if later on in life if you change set ups you can easily do so
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nuffaredy View Post
I used a block of thick black plastic lumber to build a fairing block, it’s used pretty extensively in dock construction, a worker gave me an off cut for free! I counter sunk a couple of silicone bronze carriage bolts, and used 5200 to stick and seal it up.
for DIY, I vote this.
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Old 03-05-2019, 06:39 AM
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You proably should get the correct thru-hull transducer, a tilted element one with the right degree so the transducer will mount flush and the fairing block will not add drag or disturb waterflow to the propellers.
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Old 03-07-2019, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben W View Post
One more question before I go down this path, does anyone know if there is somewhere that sells really thick plastic blocks? I would need one at least 3”x3”x10”. I tried calling Boat Outfitters and they said they don’t have it that thick and couldn’t help me. Thanks
There are a few plastic companies in Tampa that could probably help you out.

Pirate City Plastics in Ybor

Plastics America off 60 and 301.
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