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1978 Proline 20 Rebuild

Old 07-20-2018, 07:10 AM
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Default 1978 Proline 20 Rebuild

So i purchased a 20 foot Proline and pick it up on Sunday. I have a little knowledge on fiberglass but just enough to get myself in trouble lol. I will be looking for advice along the way. Here is a couple pics I have so far.

A few ideas so far:
- Enclose Transom
- Engine bracket
- forward casting deck/storage
- trim tabs

Any advice on tools and methods for strip down? thanks in advance




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Old 07-20-2018, 07:19 AM
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I'll be following.

Get yourself a Grinder with cutting disks and the sanding disks. That'll be your new favorite tool for tear down
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:22 AM
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any prefered brand?
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:27 AM
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I use the Harbor Freight Hercules model. I don't like spending a lot of money on tools that I use for fiberglass. The dust kills them. Surprisingly I can't break that grinder, I never clean out the dust.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:04 AM
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Agree with the Harbor Freight option. Did a good job on mine. Also get:
An oscillating saw, nice clean cuts with less dust thrown around
A good sized shop vac with filter bags.
Mask with filters, not just some cheap dust mask - something like this guy
Tons of disposable gloves
A painters suit when the grinding gets heavy
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:18 AM
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I'll be following I like the older proline hulls. A flexible 36 grit disc will make short work of just about anything. Harbor freight grinder lasted my whole rebuild I also blew it out after each day. Definitely get a good respirator and some latex gloves. I saved all my milk jugs and simple green containers for mixing resin in (I'm cheap). Good luck keep the pics coming.
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Old 07-23-2018, 03:37 AM
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So after one hell of a trip to get the boat, she finally back. Any thoughts on completing the transom first then tackling the stringers. Want to make sure the hull doesnt twist on me during the project. I thought about cutting the floor back a few feet to get to the transom first. then take the rest out. Also would 1 inch coosa 26 be adequate for the transom?
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Old 07-23-2018, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Captadam View Post
Want to make sure the hull doesnt twist on me during the project. I thought about cutting the floor back a few feet to get to the transom first. then take the rest out. Also would 1 inch coosa 26 be adequate for the transom?
You definitely want to make sure that the hull is well supported during rebuild. It will be easier if you make sure it’s level side to side too. It’s probably best to tackle one project at a time. For example transom first, then stringers. The hull will loose a lot of structure if you gut stringers, transom and floor all at once.

Coosa reccomrnds that you match the laminate thickness of the original transom. So, if your original transom core is 1 1/2” go with the same thickness of Coosa. My Aquasport had 1 1/4” core and I built it with 2 layesrs of 3/4” carbon core (same as Coosa). It’s also a good idea to check with your bracket manufacturer. Armstrong reccomrnds a minimum of 2” total transom thickness for up to 200 HP outboards.

There are many great examples of rebuilds on THT, but you may also want to check out some of the classic sites, like Classic Aquasport, Classic Mako or Classic Seacraft. They tend to have a lot of rebuild threads all in one place. It makes it easy to get ideas.
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Old 07-23-2018, 07:18 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I am looking at getting a trailer for the boat now while I work on it. Going to tackle the transom first. Plan on cutting back 2 feet of flooring away from the transom and start there.
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Old 07-27-2018, 05:38 AM
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Got the boat home and got it on blocks yesterday. Nice surprise when we pulled an inspection cap was a new looking fuel tank, The also installed a new fuel gauge on the boat so I may have gotten lucky with that one. I will pull the tank and send it for pressure testing then coal tar epoxy.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:00 AM
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That's a good break. Tanks can be expensive not to mention PITA to replace.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:15 AM
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I was planning on replacing anyway and putting new stringers and transom. I dont think they even secured the tank under the deck so we will hoist it out this weekend
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:27 AM
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Nice. Good idea by pulling out the tank and getting it coated. I love boats that have hatches above the tank so it is easy to replace
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:06 PM
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Subscribed!
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:09 PM
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suscribed!
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Old 07-27-2018, 04:11 PM
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Wanted to get a consensus. Bow rail or no bow rail. Taking it off tomorrow
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:54 PM
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No bow rail...
my vote
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Old 07-28-2018, 01:25 PM
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I vote no on bow rail. Keeps the lines cleaner.
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Old 07-30-2018, 12:37 PM
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Didn't you have a Mako you started to restore and then sold it? I seem to remember this parking space....
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Old 07-30-2018, 12:52 PM
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yes i had a 1977 Mako 25 I was going to restore but found the hull to be compromised in many places so I got rid of it.
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