gatorstu

Depends on your fishing style. I've had both. Bow rail has kept me onboard while anchoring in heavy seas, but now I'm in love with my trolling motor.

Captadam

I decided on no bow rail.

Captadam

More progress has been made. Putting a layer of 1708 on the entire inside of the hull and hull sides. Glued in the transom board. Waiting for my shipment of resin and shopped fibers to finish the transom. Need some thoughts and ideas for the cap where it used to meet the transom. It is not fitting back on which may just be an adjustment issue. But I want to hear some thoughts on how to finish it.

surv

I had a similar issue with mine after removing it but not as much. Mine was about 1/4" off where yours looks about 3/4" to short.

If you remove it, flip it over and grind the inside edge of the flange smooth so there is nothing sticking out it will help. Any fiberglass you put in covering your new core pieces that added thickness to the flange will also make the inside of the cap smaller than it used to be.

One more thing that will help is to use a grinder on the hull and bevel the edge all the way around at about a 45 degree angle. It kind of helps the cap to slide past the hull rather than just catching on it and not going down any more.

2TDave

Captadam

I also need to cut about 3/4 inch off across the top of the new core to level it. So after I do that I will see where I am with it

Captadam

Go most of the gap between transom board an hull sides filled with thickened epoxy. Used cabosil and milled fibers. Baby woke up from his nap so I will have to finish the rest next week when Im off. Plan on glassing the inside of the transom with 3 layers of 1708. Should be rock solid. Almost 2 inches thick

Tossedabout

thejeepguy87

https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee...830194201.html

Isn't this your old Mako?

Captadam

Sure looks like it.. Dude said he restored it.

Captadam

More progress and a little hiccup. Glassed in the transom and as it was curing the gator board blew some bubble. I plan on adding another layer so ill grind out the air pockets and move on

Sharpest

Hate that. Had a similar issue with my fish box using CSM and VE resin. Still don't know what caused it but like you, just ground them out and moved on.



Looks great otherwise!

a7ewizard

How is your progress?

Captadam

Slow, working on it tomorrow. Hopefully add the transom knees. I picked up a dorado console and leaning post from panga marine.

Captadam

Slow progress but progress. Ground down all the little air voids and filled them yesterday. Glued in the first knee support to the transom.

FL Bill

Cool! What is that board made of? Brand?

Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting... I just get to sit at home and watch and learn!

Captadam

it is called gator board by PolyUMac. Same as coosa just 1/2 the price

Captadam

Slow going, but going. .

mdees88

Sub'd. Awesome build. Didn't know this particular forum existed until a week ago.

So best I can tell is you filled the cutout with 2 layers of 1708 (added 1 more 1208 later), then added 3 full layers of 1708 tabbed into the hull, added 1.5" core, then glassed in 3 layers of 1708 on the inside? Do you remember what the thickness of your existing fiberglass shell was at the transom?

Are there ways to prevent the core from bubbling? Maybe wetting it out first, then waiting until tacky before adding glass? Would like to avoid that issue if it's possible.... I'm almost to the point of installing my core.

Captadam

Yes that was the schedule for the new transom. The original thickness was around 1.5 inches. The new transom is just over 2 inches thick. So yes I have figured out how to avoid the bubbles when i started glassing in the second knee. Basically coat with a thin layer of resin and let the heat off gass the would be bubbles. Then laminate.