Notices

1978 Proline 20 Rebuild

Old 02-25-2019, 07:27 PM
  #121  
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Dunedin, FL
Posts: 69
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Captadam View Post
Wanted to get a consensus. Bow rail or no bow rail. Taking it off tomorrow
Depends on your fishing style. I've had both. Bow rail has kept me onboard while anchoring in heavy seas, but now I'm in love with my trolling motor.
Old 02-26-2019, 07:10 AM
  #122  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

I decided on no bow rail.
Old 03-09-2019, 08:17 AM
  #123  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

More progress has been made. Putting a layer of 1708 on the entire inside of the hull and hull sides. Glued in the transom board. Waiting for my shipment of resin and shopped fibers to finish the transom. Need some thoughts and ideas for the cap where it used to meet the transom. It is not fitting back on which may just be an adjustment issue. But I want to hear some thoughts on how to finish it.




Old 03-10-2019, 06:40 AM
  #124  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,987
Received 216 Likes on 186 Posts
Default

I had a similar issue with mine after removing it but not as much. Mine was about 1/4" off where yours looks about 3/4" to short.

If you remove it, flip it over and grind the inside edge of the flange smooth so there is nothing sticking out it will help. Any fiberglass you put in covering your new core pieces that added thickness to the flange will also make the inside of the cap smaller than it used to be.

One more thing that will help is to use a grinder on the hull and bevel the edge all the way around at about a 45 degree angle. It kind of helps the cap to slide past the hull rather than just catching on it and not going down any more.
Old 03-10-2019, 07:14 AM
  #125  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,700
Received 439 Likes on 295 Posts
Default

On my Mako the original transom core didn’t go all the wall to the side. It looks like you cap might be hanging up on the core.
Old 03-10-2019, 09:08 AM
  #126  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

I also need to cut about 3/4 inch off across the top of the new core to level it. So after I do that I will see where I am with it
Old 03-12-2019, 01:28 PM
  #127  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

Go most of the gap between transom board an hull sides filled with thickened epoxy. Used cabosil and milled fibers. Baby woke up from his nap so I will have to finish the rest next week when Im off. Plan on glassing the inside of the transom with 3 layers of 1708. Should be rock solid. Almost 2 inches thick


Old 03-12-2019, 03:56 PM
  #128  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 1,532
Received 511 Likes on 323 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 305seahunter View Post
Nice. Good idea by pulling out the tank and getting it coated. I love boats that have hatches above the tank so it is easy to replace
I despise them as this “ hatch” is the main reason tanks get trashed. Being a mako guy, I rebuild deck with zero hatches or any protrusions that WILL even rly let water in.
Old 03-15-2019, 10:06 AM
  #129  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 762
Received 340 Likes on 155 Posts
Default

https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee...830194201.html

Isn't this your old Mako?
Old 03-15-2019, 05:00 PM
  #130  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

Sure looks like it.. Dude said he restored it.
Old 03-22-2019, 06:26 AM
  #131  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

More progress and a little hiccup. Glassed in the transom and as it was curing the gator board blew some bubble. I plan on adding another layer so ill grind out the air pockets and move on


Old 03-22-2019, 07:29 AM
  #132  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: South Texas
Posts: 1,502
Received 637 Likes on 425 Posts
Default

Hate that. Had a similar issue with my fish box using CSM and VE resin. Still don't know what caused it but like you, just ground them out and moved on.



Looks great otherwise!
Old 04-21-2019, 03:05 PM
  #133  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 1,122
Received 127 Likes on 86 Posts
Default

How is your progress?
Old 04-23-2019, 03:05 PM
  #134  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

Slow, working on it tomorrow. Hopefully add the transom knees. I picked up a dorado console and leaning post from panga marine.


Old 04-30-2019, 09:41 AM
  #135  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

Slow progress but progress. Ground down all the little air voids and filled them yesterday. Glued in the first knee support to the transom.


Old 04-30-2019, 10:27 AM
  #136  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
Posts: 761
Received 275 Likes on 172 Posts
Default

Cool! What is that board made of? Brand?

Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting... I just get to sit at home and watch and learn!
Old 04-30-2019, 10:31 AM
  #137  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

it is called gator board by PolyUMac. Same as coosa just 1/2 the price
Likes:
Old 05-25-2019, 10:29 AM
  #138  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

Slow going, but going. .

Old 05-25-2019, 07:08 PM
  #139  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stapleton, AL
Posts: 3,273
Received 1,305 Likes on 701 Posts
Default

Sub'd. Awesome build. Didn't know this particular forum existed until a week ago.

So best I can tell is you filled the cutout with 2 layers of 1708 (added 1 more 1208 later), then added 3 full layers of 1708 tabbed into the hull, added 1.5" core, then glassed in 3 layers of 1708 on the inside? Do you remember what the thickness of your existing fiberglass shell was at the transom?

Are there ways to prevent the core from bubbling? Maybe wetting it out first, then waiting until tacky before adding glass? Would like to avoid that issue if it's possible.... I'm almost to the point of installing my core.
Old 05-26-2019, 05:15 AM
  #140  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Largo/Belleair
Posts: 1,096
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

Yes that was the schedule for the new transom. The original thickness was around 1.5 inches. The new transom is just over 2 inches thick. So yes I have figured out how to avoid the bubbles when i started glassing in the second knee. Basically coat with a thin layer of resin and let the heat off gass the would be bubbles. Then laminate.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.