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Old 06-05-2018, 04:40 AM
  #21  
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Oh, very well, let's be constructive with Tunnels. Tunnels, there is no doubt that you have a great deal of knowledge - you just don't know how to impart that. There is this thing called "internet etiquette", which is sort of like a set of rules that people follow to interact with one another on these new-fangled computer thingies. Part of that says that WHEN YOU TYPE LIKE THIS YOU ARE SCREEEEEEMIIIING!!!!!!! and anything you were trying to say gets absolutely lost as the reader tries to figure out why the heck you are screaming at him.

Also, if you want to give someone advice, you might want to resist starting with statements like "Another one of them!!" That instantly gives everyone who reads it, probably including the O.P., the impression that you are saying, "Oh look, another dumbass that doesn't already know this stuff." Now, having seen you jump in as an egotistical jerk on more than one occasion, I can bet that probably IS what you are thinking, but in case I am wrong, here is an idea for you: You should pick a hobby you really have no idea about and find a forum dedicated to that. Read a few threads until you find the person or people who seem most put out that beginners exist or seem the most sure that everyone else in the world is wrong, and start asking them some noobie questions. This will allow you to see yourself from the other side and may be an instructive experience for you.

You wanted constructive, this is call "constructive criticism". Take it for the sincere attempt to help that it is, rant and rage, or go off and pout. I really don't care which. Peace.
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Old 06-05-2018, 04:05 PM
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I got into demo today. (Can't post pictures yet I guess) I was not pleased with what I found. All transom material is complete mush along with both stringers. It turns out a company across the street from me that shall remain nameless did a floor repair on this boat and ran their circular saws right through the stringers and fiberglass allowing a ton of moisture to destroy the boat. There was also some of the worst fiberglass work I've ever seen huge gaps, mating that was just laid over dirty fiberglass and not adhered. It's no wonder this thing went as fast as it did. They did a really nice job on the carpet and upholstery and hid the disgusting work underneath. My father-in-law had no idea what he had paid for
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Old 06-05-2018, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Jadob View Post
...They did a really nice job on the carpet and upholstery and hid the disgusting work underneath. My father-in-law had no idea what he had paid for
I feel ya there. I'm working on one that looks almost like two different companies built the thing. Nice, solid hull, but the stringer work was atrocious. They tabbed them up about an inch, evidently didn't wet out the fiberglass well and I'm popping the tabs right up. then they laid some cross pieces on it and just sprayed everything with a chop gun and slapped the floor down. It was just laid like goop over the cross members with the bottom of them and the stringers where the cross members were in the way just bare. The stringers have basically turned to dirt. Sloppy. Well, at least it will go back better than it was originally.
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:05 PM
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I had a boat like that too - had to remove the old stringers with a sponge! It feels really good when you have it all cleaned out and are ready to start rebuilding. A wire wheel on an angle grinder makes short work of cleaning up old foam if you have any in there.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:32 PM
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That works!
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by scallen2112 View Post
Another one of them...what?
And, why are you YELLING AT THE GUY for wisely seeking advice before starting a project?
Just adding emphasis to the OFTEN IGNORED instructions. It brings up a lot of details.
I believe the post was a great introduction to a messy, time consuming, HARD WORK project.
Replacing the most important structural component in the boat, Should be DONE RIGHT.



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Old 06-13-2018, 11:17 AM
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What motor/outdrive combo does this boat have? I can't believe no one asked you that prior to saying this was a good move.
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:26 AM
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As you will quickly find out: there is no such thing as a free boat. With a stringer job, new deck, rigging, transom, paint, etc.... you will be 3X your budget at least. If it were me, I'd take that $2500 and go buy a Carolina Skiff j16 w/ a 10 year old 2 stroke motor and go cruise, fish, play. You are looking at MONTHS of work and nasty work at that: grinding, sanding, fairing, sanding: it's not wood. It's fiberglass: it seeps through your pores, gets in your nose, eyes, your balls. If it were me, I'd say thanks but no thanks. ....especially for your 1st project: it's a magnanimous one
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Old 06-13-2018, 05:57 PM
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Agreed, no such thing as a free boat.

How's the wiring, fuse blocks, pumps, steering, etc. in the subject vessel?

Not to scare ya OP but the last boat I fully restored ended up taking 4 years and $45K.
Of course that also included a new 20' trailer.

One thing leads to another......................................
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TrybalRage View Post
Yeah, you can do that with your budget. It's going to be long, nasty, dirty work though. Plenty of resources on the internet - youtube, etc for how to do everything. There's one guy who did an I/O that you might find helpful, Friscoboater: https://youtu.be/kopF4muvF0c

Boatworks today is good for how-to's on specific topics.
This is a great video series for anyone who is restoring their boat, I seen all the videos and it will definitely help you as you go along with your boat. Just get a beer and watch a couple videos each night for probably 3-5 days
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:47 AM
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Run !
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:24 AM
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I saw the title of this thread and it reminded me of an old girlfriend!
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:17 PM
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To the op: o e walked this same road and while I learned a tremendous amount it sure was a lot of long weekends and nights spent grinding fiberglass while my friends were out boating.
The thing to avoid is the dreaded tipping point where you have more money into a project than you’d want to walk away from. And remember that the return on your dollars and time will be about twenty cents on the dollar, give or take. I’d bump up the budget to a more generous level to include a new wiring harness and electronics. Say about 3,700 all in.
The project is indeed doable for a guy with smarts and a good work ethic.
You find lots of excellent advice on this board as well as encouragement. And in your case, the transom doesn’t push the boat. The outdrive and engine attach to the engine bed stringers. Check those out as it’s those that push the hull. Start checking those for rot. If those are indeed gone then I’d sell the motor and grind the hull into swizzle sticks.

And fwiw, I also find tunnels annoying as hell. As long as you remember that he’s Gods gift to boat building you’ll get along just fine with the guy 🙄

Last edited by grodywhite; 06-15-2018 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:45 AM
  #34  
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Material cost under $500 If you use etc plywood.id use epoxy for waterproofing and secondary bonding.
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Old 06-18-2018, 01:04 PM
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Well guys I'm already gutted and ground down to a smooth hull. I got the boat from my father in law and he took very good care of everything mechanical. I'm at the Pont where I can start building the transom and stringers. I made templates of everything I could.. so in my reading I've found that the transom needs to be 2" - 2 1/4" for mercruiser out drives. The transom I just removed was 1 3/4" should I keep it the same or beef it up?
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:08 PM
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My transom core is 1.5 inches with overall 2 inches. Prepare yourself, resin will soak up a bunch of your money. Pun intended. Stick to buying laminating resin, if you are going polyester and plan out your project pieces. I too have been learning this as my time was primarily spent grinding and sanding. Depending on your current location, definitely factor in the heat and humidity. I don't know if you are only working on weekends or nights or what, but I would stick to working in 1 pint batches of resin as to not waste any. Buy four plastic measuring cups from Lowes, that way your first used cup can cure and be ready to go once you have used the other three. 1 pint batches seem to be the ticket for me and I am in Florida. Averages about 10 minutes work time at 1% catalyst (1cc for 1 pint) for non waxed resin. TotalBoat resin ($50/gal) has been pretty solid thus far and lots of 1.5 oz chopped strand mat. I got pretty lucky from my father in law and he gave me a 50 yard roll he had.

I just used Arjay 6011 ceramic compound for the first time this weekend on the bow of my Robalo. The wood core was shot from the oem install and no one ever resealed the pulpit bolts since that time. I bought a one gallon pale off Amazon for $50. It is amazing. I cut the top skin off, gutted the wood core, sanded, repaired all holes and cracks with CSM/poly resin. Basically made a new layer of csm on top of the original skin. Open bucket of Arjay, mix in the catalyst and pour into your void. Then with my top skin already prepped by sanding and cleaning, I brushed on some resin. Placed it onto the arjay and used concrete pavers to push the skin into the arjay until the skin was level and arjay pushed out the openings. Done. Hard as steel after a few hours and sands easily. This would work perfect for your stringers and transom. A 5 gallon bucket is about $160 from some retailers and should be plenty for stringers. Unfortunately I had no need for that much, as it was a better deal price wise. It pours in like pancake batter and self levels. You may look at the cost and think wood is cheaper. But the cost of resin will eat your budget quick if you are not careful. Example, my center console repair using CSM and some 3/8" ply for key core areas soaked up three gallons. I eventually will need to do my transom, and I promise you it will be pour able compound. I can't imagine how much resin I would use glassing and stacking two 3/4" sheets of kiln dried marine ply.

Also, buy a small container of System Three glass micro-spheres ($9 Amazon). Works awesome as a fairing compound. Add some to your resin, mix, add hardener, mix and apply for a small top coat to sand baby butt smooth with ease. It basically makes the top layer of resin easier to sand quicker. Finish sanding is a PITA.

Last edited by DoughnutToo; 06-18-2018 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 06-19-2018, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jadob View Post
Well guys I'm already gutted and ground down to a smooth hull. I got the boat from my father in law and he took very good care of everything mechanical. I'm at the Pont where I can start building the transom and stringers. I made templates of everything I could.. so in my reading I've found that the transom needs to be 2" - 2 1/4" for mercruiser out drives. The transom I just removed was 1 3/4" should I keep it the same or beef it up?
Need Pics, pics, pics
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:29 PM
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I've been dying to post pictures but the forum won't let me. Says I need 10 posts before it will allow me.
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Old 06-20-2018, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jadob View Post
I've been dying to post pictures but the forum won't let me. Says I need 10 posts before it will allow me.
You have 14 at this point. Let's see it!
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:12 AM
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