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Please Explain a Garboard Drain

Old 02-28-2019, 05:41 PM
  #21  
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With bilge pumps I donít see why people bother with the silly transom drain. When I rebuilt transom on my boat I left out the drain. No issues and stays dry.
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Old 03-03-2019, 04:26 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Tossedabout View Post
With bilge pumps I donít see why people bother with the silly transom drain. When I rebuilt transom on my boat I left out the drain. No issues and stays dry.
this is a simple and effective solution if you're stressing out over it. I know plenty of boats that don't have drains cut in.
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Old 03-04-2019, 06:05 AM
  #23  
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A garboard drain by definition goes through the hull bottom next to the keel,a transom drain goes through the transom.The garboard drains are generally shorter and not sleeved,they are more like the standard through hull with a t handle plug and is used to drain the bilge in the low spot.
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Old 03-04-2019, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dell30rb View Post


i had the large bow eye bolt in my Albemarle 24 corrode through in this way. The bolt looked absolutely fine on both sides but it was completely corroded in the 1/2Ē section that went through the hull.
To prevent this, you can use a thick carbon steel washer on the inside. I did this on my bow eye and aft lifting eyes 5 years ago and inspected the 5/8" aft bolts last month. They were like new. I also use plumbers liquid teflon as an anti seize. The aft washers were actually 3"x3"x1/8" plate that I epoxied to the transom. I believe it is ok to paint these as the crevice corrosion does not require air exposure
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Old 03-04-2019, 09:12 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Tossedabout View Post
With bilge pumps I donít see why people bother with the silly transom drain. When I rebuilt transom on my boat I left out the drain. No issues and stays dry.
If you store on the hard ,at least up north you'd want to pitch the boat back hard toward the plug to keep the bilge dry and prevent cracks to the gelcoat....
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Old 03-04-2019, 05:06 PM
  #26  
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I remember a genius plant manager I worked for made us keep the transom drain plugs in new boats that were stored outside for extended periods. The filled with water, who would have thunk. The water made its way into the plastic fuel tank eventually. They drained the hull but nobody suspected that the gas tank was full, although she seemed a but heavy. The test crew added 20 gallons of fuel to the tank and ran the brand new engines, totally destroying them.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dell30rb View Post


i had the large bow eye bolt in my Albemarle 24 corrode through in this way. The bolt looked absolutely fine on both sides but it was completely corroded in the 1/2Ē section that went through the hull.


Common practice over here is to simply overdrill then fill well with epoxy to seal, rather than try and extend a tube through. If the tube is not perfectly sealed around its inner lip, you are letting water in to just sit here. Crevice corrosion is real, as dell30rb says above--I had exactly the same thing happen on a boat i bought. cleaned out the anchor well, found the remains of one leg and the nut from the tow point sitting in the bottom. And the other was going when I knocked it out.

Originally Posted by Tossedabout View Post
With bilge pumps I donít see why people bother with the silly transom drain. When I rebuilt transom on my boat I left out the drain. No issues and stays dry.
So how do you get water out when your bilge pump fails? They all fail, sooner or later. And if you have a dedicated bilge sump where everything drains in you can get most of it out, but most are just mounted in the vee, and leave a lot of water behind. My current boat is a very long reach over the transom to the screw-in bung, but, if that pump fails at sea after doing a big wash-down, I'm either carting all that water home or just about swimming to get to the bung to drain it on the plane. But at least I have a way of getting it out.Of course, if you have a true self-draining deck, and nothing can ever get under the deck, disregard.
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