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1996 Evinrude 6 hp impeller change - HELP!

Old 04-05-2018, 01:28 PM
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Just did this on my merc 8hp, basically the same. Have to flip that circled clip up and then wiggle the pin out.

Jeez. No one EVER on THT has confused a Merc with a Johnson!!!

Got to give you some flack for that!!

You have to remove that block for the reverse lock from the shift rod. Just take the screw off and it comes off in two pieces.
Old 04-05-2018, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
...

Jeez. No one EVER on THT has confused a Merc with a Johnson!!!

Got to give you some flack for that!!

...
But it's pale blueish and not black? Fooled me too.
Old 04-05-2018, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
Just did this on my merc 8hp, basically the same. Have to flip that circled clip up and then wiggle the pin out.

Jeez. No one EVER on THT has confused a Merc with a Johnson!!!

Got to give you some flack for that!!

You have to remove that block for the reverse lock from the shift rod. Just take the screw off and it comes off in two pieces.
OK ... I'll take it ... <sheepish grin>

My only excuse is that I hadn't seen the boat or motor in 14 years (plus or minus) and didn't pay any attention to the label on the cowling when I took it off and put it away ... planning on the impeller change so I could get this puppy in the water ASAP. For whatever reason, I thought that I had an Evinrude until someone asked me for the model number and I took a picture of the manufacturer's tag.... and said to myself, "Whuhh?? Why does an Evinrude tag say 'Mercury' on it?". I even looked it up on the web to see if one company had owned the other at some point, or if one had made motors for the other ... still convinced that it was an Evinrude in spite of the label... geez (you can't make this stuff up!). Boy was THAT dumb! Oh well, knowledge is power as they say, so I guess I am now empowered ... I know why the manual didn't cover this motor very well, and I know that I need to go back to Idaho Marine and exchange the Evinrude 6-hp impeller for the MERCURY 6-hp impeller ... Hopefully will be on the water by Monday.... kinda busy between now and then, so we'll see.

One good thing though, is that it appears the Mercury motor was more popular, so there are a lot more videos on YouTube for it than the Evinrude.....


Brian
Old 04-05-2018, 02:17 PM
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Mud Runner - Thanks again for taking the time on manuals and info - you went the extra mile and I appreciate it!

ronp364 - Yeah, the motor color didn't help any. It is painted camo. The motor was on a brand new boat that was stolen back in '96, later found and confiscated by police. The whole boat was camo. I suspect that insurance had already covered the loss, so the boat/motor never went back to the original owner. The motor was 9 years old when I bought it and got it through a police auction cheap - it had been stored in an out of sight corner of the police warehouse. I used it briefly on the skiff that I mentioned ... but had also lost my job and ended up storing the boat and motor on a friend's farm - then off to a job that I landed up in Alaska. That was in 2005. I ran StaBIL fuel through it, SeaFoamed it, greased up every bit of exposed metal (cables included), changed the oil in the lower unit and then parked it in a 3-sided shed on my friend's farm .... and that's where it has been until recently. We just moved out of Alaska and I went and got the boat back ... that brings us up to today... time for an impeller change and then jus' go fishin'.... The motor is 22 years old on the calendar and has maybe 20-30 hours on it. The outside is dirty from the farm, they busted the fenders on the trailer when moving combines and tractors in and out of the shed, and there was piles of farm junk stored in the boat that wasn't mine ... but whatever. I've got it back and it's all cleaned up and nearly ready.... I didn't pay a nickel for storage, and they never complained or made me move the boat, so I can't complain.

Brian
Old 04-05-2018, 02:22 PM
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IDAHOBANGBANG, check your PM.
Old 04-05-2018, 05:12 PM
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OK ... Just got home, got the cowling off the shelf ... and immediately (in my defense) realized why I had no clear memory of reading the brand off of the cowling:



Brian
Old 04-12-2018, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ronp364 View Post
That does change things.
Take a look at this: <video link snipped>
The camerman needs to lay off the caffeine, but it looks like in that diagram you posted showing the connection to the rod, the plate nearest the camera may hinge up like the one in the video? And then that lets you pull the pin out of the shift rod. This would imply there is no pin on the far end (which would be a
nightmare if there was, because when putting it back in, it's going to miss and drop off into oblivion.)
Got it! The little plate shown in the video flipped right up. Looks like it's plastic with a thin metal rod in it that slides through a hole in the top end of the shift rod. As soon as I flipped the plate up as shown in the video, it wiggled out without a problem. Loosening up the collar that operates the "do not allow motor to come up when in reverse" lever then allowed the lower unit to slip right off easily. I did mark the shift rod so I could put the 'anti kick up' collar gizmo back in the same spot (and of course I'll test it by shifting into reverse and making sure the lever thinger is fully actuated). My water pump kit (incl. impeller and a pile of other stuff) is ready to go in ... will work on it this weekend.

There was perhaps a teaspoon of water in the lower unit when I drained it, and the gear oil was milky. Does this water get in past an O-ring on the prop's shaft or something? I'm thinking of just using it as-is for this season and changing lower unit gear oil 2 or 3 times during the season, then fixing it next Fall or Winter in the garage at my leisure. Or is this something that's easy to fix? Perhaps to some degree, this is just normal operation?

Thx again for all the help - this whole motor effort is my first on an outboard .... I've only adjusted cables and changed lower unit oil in the past, otherwise just used the heck out of the motors that I've owned (Tohatsu, Mercury, Honda.... no Evinrudes ... LOL....)

Brian
Old 04-12-2018, 06:04 AM
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Brian,
My experience has been that the place where water entered the lower unit has been through the lip seals under the water pump plate. I don't remember if it's included withe the water pump kit. The drain screw gaskets skould be replaced with any gear oil change. Good luck.
Old 04-12-2018, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Mud Runner View Post
Brian,
My experience has been that the place where water entered the lower unit has been through the lip seals under the water pump plate. I don't remember if it's included withe the water pump kit. The drain screw gaskets skould be replaced with any gear oil change. Good luck.
I noticed that the drain seal screws were not especially tight when I removed them. Snug, yes, and probably enough. But 'tight'? No....

My pump kit is this one, and it looks pretty complete, but I haven't gone through it yet:

SEI Marine Mercury Water Pump Kit SEI Marine Mercury Water Pump Kit

The picture and one of the comments confirm that the drain screw gaskets ARE included. I'll study up on the kit installation and will likely change the lower unit oil mid-season to see if water is still getting in or not ...

Thanks!
Brian
Old 04-12-2018, 09:19 AM
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That's the exact kit I bought. The lower lip seals are included. You'll need sealer at the small square edge when you install the white plastic base plate
Old 04-12-2018, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Mud Runner View Post
That's the exact kit I bought. The lower lip seals are included. You'll need sealer at the small square edge when you install the white plastic base plate
What kind of sealer? I've got Loctite in every flavor, including the red, which one of the comments mentioned. The guy also mentioned needing 'Duralube' ... not sure what that is, but I've got a tube of outboard motor grease and various other (lithium complex) greases around the shop. But sealer or sealant? Happy to pick up what I need ... just need to know.

Do I need Brake Cleaner spray to degrease things? I'm all out and need to pick some up....

Thx....
Brian
Old 04-12-2018, 11:10 AM
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As a sealant, I used Life caulk black silicone. No need to degrease anything on that job. I usually lube the impeller and stainless cup before putting it together. It helps when installing the cup over the impeller. Just turn the shaft clockwise looking down on the pump.
Old 04-12-2018, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mud Runner View Post
As a sealant, I used Life caulk black silicone. No need to degrease anything on that job. I usually lube the impeller and stainless cup before putting it together. It helps when installing the cup over the impeller. Just turn the shaft clockwise looking down on the pump.
As a matter of fact ... I've got Professional Goo Gone, 3M Degreaser (auto body paint shop stuff), and BoatLIFE's cleaners and caulk removers ... and also Life-Calk too! I had leaky windows on my truck's canopy and needed a variety of de-caulking and cleaning products to get some other guy's goop mix off that thing ... had to remove windows, de-caulk/degrease, re-install with Life-Calk ... the right way (screw window clamps down enough to start getting squeeze-out ... stop(!) and let cure ... then finish tightening the windows). Good stuff.... Now I can sleep under the canopy on a rainy night and just enjoy the pitter-patter without having to soak in it too....

Brian
Old 04-17-2018, 07:19 AM
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OK .. Thanks to the help from this forum (especially Mud Runner), I completed the installation of the water pump kit in my 1996 Mercury 6-hp two stroke. I took the boat over to a local lake, backed it into the water far enough to dunk the cav plate and ... voila! The darn thing started right up after almost 14 years in a gear shed ... ran smooth and quiet ... perfect! The new water pump pumps water like a bandit ... but!

New problem: The pee water from the motor just trickled and would almost stream out properly when the motor was revved ... didn't look right though! I looked down the side of the motor, and dang ... water shooting out the side of the leg on both sides instead of going up and through the motor like it should! Hard to see, but there's about a 1/2" hole on each side of the leg (noted below) where the water was coming out. Probably lucky any water went through the motor at all!

When I put the lower unit back on, I was careful .. using a hydraulic floor jack to carefully lift while I aligned the shift rod and crankshaft to go where they had to go, and carefully jacked the lower up until the water tube re-entered the plastic tube from the pump. All good, right? Not quite. The lower refused to go all the way back up... something was obstructing it, but after a bunch of wiggling and trying, it slipped into place. I suspect now, however, that the plastic water tube connection to the pump got cockeyed or disconnected while I was trying to get the lower to slide up into place. The plastic tube piece felt very loose and I wondered how it ever worked without leaking ... but I figured they must've designed it that way, so oh well. I'm going to look up the part number for the 3" (or so) plastic tube and see if I can get one, then will lower the lower unit (again!) and try again .... sigh

Water comes out the sides..... lots of it!
Old 04-23-2018, 06:20 PM
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Well ... as it turns out, the water was probably blowing by the bottom end of the water pipe .... but it looked like all was assembled properly. The reason that I think this is because on my next test, a long slug of mud came out of the pee hole .... the real reason that the cooling wasn't working. All is good now.... the pump pumps water like a bandit and the pee hole shoots water out like a fire hose ... best I've ever seen it. The next problem showed up though, but I'll fix it post-season. I get a drip of oil coming from the prop shaft now and then ... enough to send a drip down a blade of the prop - seepage, but enough to notice. I'm going to use it as-is and change the lower unit oil regularly this summer... worry about further repairs next Fall Thanks again for everyone's help.

Brian
Old 04-23-2018, 07:31 PM
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Brian,
Congrats. That oil may just be burnt oil in the exhaust. You can also get some oil dripping from the carb when you tilt it up. It eventually drips down the leg. I've also had to run a wire up the copper tube to the block when the lower unit was off because my friend ran it in the mud at low tide.
Old 04-24-2018, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Mud Runner View Post
Brian,
Congrats. That oil may just be burnt oil in the exhaust. You can also get some oil dripping from the carb when you tilt it up. It eventually drips down the leg. I've also had to run a wire up the copper tube to the block when the lower unit was off because my friend ran it in the mud at low tide.
Thanks, and yes. Also, from when I first tried to get the lower unit off, suspecting a stuck crankshaft, I hosed down the inside of the mid section with a lot of WD40 and let it sit.... still oily in there! I'll run 1/3rd to 1/2 season, then change the lower unit oil and see if there's water in there at that time... Hopefully not! Glad the motor's working! It fires right up on a single pull and runs smooth and strong (as strong as a 6-hp can get anyway), water blasting out of the pee hole now

Brian
Old 08-01-2020, 08:40 AM
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Ron-

THANK YOU for your earlier post on removing a shift rod!!!!!! THIS EVINRUDE mechanism is IDENTICAL to what my Mercury 8hp 2 stroke uses.

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