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!8' privateer rebuild

Old 05-30-2018, 01:54 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by drumretriever View Post
Here are some pictures of my deck setup. The front platform is 59 inches wide where the tape measure sits in the picture and 9 inches tall. I have a group 24 tolling motor battery in the front hatch. I included the shot of the transom so you could see where my engine bolts are in relationship to the deck (mine are almost on the deck and it looks like yours are a couple inches above the deck). The transom is 16 inches from the deck to the tallest part of the transom. You can also see where Radcliff glassed in another layer of plywood to the transom where the engine mounts. Like you, there was nothing wrong with the transom, he just added little extra given the heavy motor. - Also, nice ride SweetD.
Drum - thanks for the compliment. I like your forward casting deck a lot - mine is just the standard step-up.

I'm afraid to put anything heavier than my current outboard on my transom as my scuppers are just on the edge of being underwater. I've thought of something like the Tohatsu two-strokes that are high-pressure direct inject since they are relatively lightweight...but I think any modern four stroke would be too much. Do you keep your scuppers plugged all the time with that Honda hanging on the back?
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:46 AM
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SweetD - the 90hp Honda on mine weighs 373lbs. From 2006 till 2015 the scuppers in their original position were right at the water line, and the hull self bailed when at the dock. In 2015 we raised the scuppers 1.5 - 2 inches and filled the little water catch channel that existed where the deck met the transom. I raised the scuppers because I moved the boat to a wet slip and wanted a little piece of mind. In both the original and new scupper positions we needed to plug the scuppers when loaded with gear and people to keep water off the deck when anchored. If I am on the boat alone fishing the scupper ball valves generally keep the water out.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:09 AM
  #43  
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Between work and the weather and I haven't been able to do much boat work lately. I have cut all the pieces I need to finish out below the deck, just need a day and time to glass everything. I ran my rigging tube and got the fuel tank from the fabricator and dry fit it in. Below is a pic. It is ~ 26 gallons and should be more than plenty considering the original tank was 18 gallons. I also ordered the rest of the parts need to complete the boat. Fuel line, fuel fill, rod holders, wires, screws, switches, control cables, steering hoses, etc. Just need some good weather!!
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:18 AM
  #44  
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Got some work done yesterday and the day before, starting to look like a boat again.

Use foam they said, it'll be fun they said, Might have gotten a little to much in various places. Didn't realize it would expand quite like it did. That stuff is pretty cool but good lord it expands quick. Tried to shape it or keep it under control but failed a little. Learned a little bit between the second and third pours. I think y'all can see where I figured it out. LOL





I know I'm a little ahead of myself in this last pic, but after the trimming the foam and seeing the levelness of the stern section I couldn't help but to cut a piece of flooring and rough fit it. I still have to finish the rigging tube and and a few other little things before putting the floor in, but it did feel good to get it in place and see it start to "look like a boat again."

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Old 06-06-2018, 07:11 AM
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A couple of coats of coal tar epoxy on that tank would have gone a long way in extending the service life of that tank before it was foamed in.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:38 AM
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Are those stringers tabbed in? Does not look like much tabbing, but hard to tell from pics.

Foam. Uggh. Last Privateer I had had ZERO foam, on purpose.

Second that about the tank being coated first.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
Are those stringers tabbed in? Does not look like much tabbing, but hard to tell from pics.

Foam. Uggh. Last Privateer I had had ZERO foam, on purpose.

Second that about the tank being coated first.
Yes all stringers are tabbed bow to stern two layers of 1708 nearly up to the top of edge of the stringer. I had thought about not doing the foam because of the water logging effect. Before pouring the foam I made little channels along the edges of the stringers so any water can drain. . They cannot be seen due to the foam and angle of these pics. I'll try to get a pic of the channels later. Didn't think about painting the tank, dang. Hopefully I'll get 8-10 years out of it.
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:15 AM
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Since you've gone ahead with the foam, if you've had to cut it or sand it at all to shape it/make it fit, you should definitely coat the cut/sanded areas liberally with epoxy resin to seal it up as best you can. Even though it's closed-cell foam, when you puncture the skin in any way, it can still hold water. Hopefully you knew this already and I am just telling you something you already know!
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:34 PM
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Cool that you went with the tank under the deck. Also nice you went with a large diameter rigging tube. I have to replace my steering cable tonight and it is always a pain fishing through the smaller rigging tube i have.
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:14 AM
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Didn't get much done over the weekend due to other stuff going on. Went fishing in my other boat, and then fished again on a buddy's boat. I was able to get both sides of the stern floor piece glassed and fitted to the boat. Didn't take any pics though. Kinda at an crossroads. Can't decide if I want to put the rest of the floor in, or do the transom work next. Both need to be done, but not sure which I should do first. I'm leaning toward the transom though.
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Old 06-18-2018, 05:48 AM
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Got to work a little bit over the weekend, still haven't had that big time block that I need, but progress never the less. Got the piece to close the transom cut and glued in and also was able to screw and glue the stern piece of the floor in. I cut the next piece of floor and glassed both sides, but haven't put it down just yet. PIcs below.


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Old 06-25-2018, 06:26 AM
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Well, I had the 1st major issue show up. Put the fitting for the fuel pick up on and it was higher than the floor by a good bit. Called the tank builder and he said we can move the pick up tube to a different location. The design has the fill and vent going to be through the console, so moving the pick up to where it will be under the console as well. Not ideal, but better than getting a new tank built. (Well cheaper anyway) Obviously had to pull the tank out. UGH!!! Anyways I got the transom piece glassed in and the scupper holes drilled and done. For the scuppers I decided to use 2-1/4inch PVC plugs. Didn't get pics, because, well I just didn't take any. I'll get pics up in the next couple of days.
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:53 AM
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Got some work done over the last week or so. Got my tank back with the relocated pick up tube. Got that position and foamed back in. Also got the next to floor sections dry fit and screwed and glued. They are not glassed in yet, but are in position. Need to pull a fillet along the edges to get the floor ready to glass. i also mocked up the transom cap. Picked up a hatch from a buddy. 28inch x11.5 inch. It will fit nicely on the transom cap for storage and such. I put in 2 inch pvc drain plugs. Below are some pics of the progress.

Dry fit of flooring. The front of the console will cover the fuel fill, vent, and pick up tube.


Screwed and glued.



Transom cap mock up. Still have to put front piece on, but I wanted an idea of how it would look.
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Old 07-10-2018, 01:19 PM
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The transom cap is going to be cool.
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:41 AM
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Got a lot of stuff done over the weekend. Can't really tell that I did much, but I knocked out a bunch of little stuff. Sanded everything smooth. (Thanks to whoever mentioned using a flapper wheel instead of sandpaper!! That thing is incredible!!) Got the floor glassed. Full layer of 1708 with about 4-6 inches going up the sides. Got the last layer of glass on the outside of transom. Pulled fillets and glassed the transom cap. Didn't get it put in yet, but it is ready. Glassed over the holes where the rod holders were. I have no Idea why the rod holders were placed as they were. I think the previous owner must have fished from the bow alot. Getting there slowly but surely. Below are a few pics of the weekends work. Things still to do - run a layer of mat over the floor, Fabricate/extend bow casting deck, repair the center console, (although I'm thinking of just fabbing a new one), paint, install new rod holders, and then the re rigging of the motor, fishfinder, and electrical system.

Floor pics. Little dust from sanding can be seen. Cleaned that up after taking the pics.



Transom pic


Shot down the gunnel of the rod holder repair. Flapper wheel was great for smoothing out the patches one the rod holder holes.
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Old 07-17-2018, 12:33 PM
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What material did you use for the stringers and transom?
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Old 07-17-2018, 02:28 PM
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If you have some scrap coosa around, consider attaching a small square to the transom for mounting transducers. That way when you replace a transducer you will not have to drill new holes in the transom, you will just swiss cheese the coosa. I should have done this when I had my boat redone.
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Old 07-17-2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Captadam View Post
What material did you use for the stringers and transom?
Coosa for stringers, honeycomb for the decking.

Drumretriver, that's a great idea! I have several scrap pieces laying around that would be perfect for that.
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Old 07-18-2018, 12:19 PM
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Looks like the starboard side deck in the bow is a little lower than the port side judging by the chine hump and front step
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Old 07-19-2018, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by twitch View Post
Looks like the starboard side deck in the bow is a little lower than the port side judging by the chine hump and front step
There is a slight difference there. I'm extending that front step/casting deck back to where the chine humps level back to the floor. Once the extension is complete everything will be level.
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