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!8' privateer rebuild

Old 05-02-2018, 07:06 AM
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Progress is a good thing! That shade tent will come in real handy. Nice work!

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Old 05-05-2018, 07:35 AM
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Well, I got the starboard side outside stringer tabbed in yesterday afternoon. Was planning on getting the port side done today, but I ran out of microbubbles. Project on hold until my new box of bubbles comes from U.S. composites. There is always something to do on a boat though. Think I may try to do some work on closing in the transom or at least get pieces cut. The bracket arrived the other day, and I'm waiting to order the mirco jacker jack plate until I'm further along. Adding the bracket and micro jacker jack plate should allow me to run incredibly skinny. (thinking wet grass. LOL)
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Old 05-08-2018, 02:06 PM
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Why are you using micro balloons for tabbing?
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Old 05-09-2018, 05:18 AM
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Using them to mix up putty to make fillets.
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Old 05-09-2018, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by crafreem View Post
Using them to mix up putty to make fillets.
Typically for fillets you want to use Cabosil/fumed silica. The difference is that microballoons make a more 'lightweight' putty that is easier to sand, where fumed silica stays hard and strong.

So microballoons are good for making a fairing putty, fumed silica for structural.
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:42 AM
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Microballoons wouldn't have been my first choice for bedding and filleting stringers.
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:43 AM
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Not my first choice either, but the strength comes from the glass going from stringer, over the fillet, and onto the hull. Strength of the fillet not that critical. If in doubt, add a little more glass.
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:49 AM
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Well Damn! Thought I was doing right. I ended up doing an extra layer of glass on the stringers. I got a lot of "little" stuff done over the weekend, but forgot to take pics. I will try to get some tonight.
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:46 AM
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Nice work!
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:16 AM
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The weather has sucked lately in my area of the world. Lots of wind, rain, and humidity. Don't mind the wind and humidity so much, but rain makes it hard to do glasswork.
I'm kind of at am empass, I THINK I know what I need to do as far as closing in the transom, but have never done one before so I'm a little uneasy about it and haven't done anything but think about what needs to be done. What I am thinking is cutting down about six inches of the existing inside transom core and chiseling/sanding it smooth. Then making a new piece to match the existing thickness but also so it is flush with the gunnels. Roughly the red line in this pic is what I THINK I need to cut out and replace. There is nothing wrong with what I'm cutting out, I just think I need to so that I can close in the transom and have it be strong. What say the experts on here? Am I one the right track with my plan or do I need to modify? (old pic with old stringers)


?
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:22 AM
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If height is ok and structure solid, why not just add gussets tying transom fwd face down to the side of stringers? Would make it strong as heck.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:56 PM
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I like those hulls, I'm glad to see you restoring it.

I know you don't want to replace the transom because it's solid but IMHO it's worth every ounce of effort to replace it. It's not that big of a job to replace it, the stringers are much more work.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:00 PM
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We didn't replace or mod the transom on mine, as it was also quite solid. We ended up cutting and fitting two pieces of white starboard, one for each side of the motor, in order to help "raise" the transom. Obviously the motor is still at the original height. It's held up well for the past 11 seasons, looks pretty good, and saved us having to do the transom work. Of course it's not as nice as a fully integrated heightened transom.
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:14 AM
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Cool thread! I have run my 18 privateer for the last 15 years. In that time I have replaced the deck, under-deck fuel tank, motor, console, and raised the scuppers, and painted with imron. But I paid Radcliff Boatworks / Privateer to do most of it, so I have serious respect for your work.

Eyeballing it, my deck sits 2 to 3 inches higher than yours was, but my current 90hp motor weighs 125 lbs more than your 70hp (according to a quick google) so Im guessing raising the deck was not needed to get the deck to drain. Looking forward to seeing the motor bracket setup.

I would recommend raising the casting deck in the bow and making it bigger by bringing it back toward the stern to cover the "humps" you see in the first picture of the thread. Mine is set up this way and I have plenty of storage under the casting deck for anchors and i still have a hatch access to the storage are in the bow. Ill post of pic if you are interested.

Subscribed. Keep up the good work!
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Old 05-25-2018, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by drumretriever View Post
Cool thread! I have run my 18 privateer for the last 15 years. In that time I have replaced the deck, under-deck fuel tank, motor, console, and raised the scuppers, and painted with imron. But I paid Radcliff Boatworks / Privateer to do most of it, so I have serious respect for your work.

Eyeballing it, my deck sits 2 to 3 inches higher than yours was, but my current 90hp motor weighs 125 lbs more than your 70hp (according to a quick google) so Im guessing raising the deck was not needed to get the deck to drain. Looking forward to seeing the motor bracket setup.

I would recommend raising the casting deck in the bow and making it bigger by bringing it back toward the stern to cover the "humps" you see in the first picture of the thread. Mine is set up this way and I have plenty of storage under the casting deck for anchors and i still have a hatch access to the storage are in the bow. Ill post of pic if you are interested.

Subscribed. Keep up the good work!
Would love to see pics of your privateer. Post em up!!
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Old 05-25-2018, 05:30 AM
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Nice work, glad to see you restoring a classic.
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Old 05-25-2018, 04:59 PM
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Here I am, in for the season:

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Old 05-29-2018, 05:35 AM
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Here are some pictures of my deck setup. The front platform is 59 inches wide where the tape measure sits in the picture and 9 inches tall. I have a group 24 tolling motor battery in the front hatch. I included the shot of the transom so you could see where my engine bolts are in relationship to the deck (mine are almost on the deck and it looks like yours are a couple inches above the deck). The transom is 16 inches from the deck to the tallest part of the transom. You can also see where Radcliff glassed in another layer of plywood to the transom where the engine mounts. Like you, there was nothing wrong with the transom, he just added little extra given the heavy motor. - Also, nice ride SweetD.



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Old 05-30-2018, 05:12 AM
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Thanks for the pics! That's a good looking rig! I like that casting platform being big like that. Think I may copy that from you. What length is your trolling motor? I'm going to put one on it eventually, probably next after getting the funds replenished.
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Old 05-30-2018, 06:34 AM
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The trolling motor is basic manual control minn kota saltwater 12 volt, 55lb thrust, with 52 inch shaft. Plenty of power and good shaft length for the boat. Also one of the cheaper salt water options. I was able to squeeze a group 24 battery in the bow with a mounted minn kota shore power charger (not a charger hooked to the motor). I don't run the trolling motor all day, generally we run it in short bursts to get in position, then post up and fish.

Happy the casting platform might work out for you. Under the platform there is a single stringer/support, that runs from the front bulkhead almost to the opening where I have the anchors. It divides the storage area into two compartments. Ill post a pick of the support next time Im on the boat.
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