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Old 11-13-2017, 12:54 PM   #101
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Believe it or not the transom is solid. So transom stays like it is. Gonna start glueing it all together this week. Tanks first then the floor.
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Old 11-13-2017, 04:23 PM   #102
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I have a question about my new aluminum tanks. I have no sending units in them. Don't need em as I have flowmeter. The tanks will be mounted on top of the stringers. I have made a platform out of coosa for them to sit on. I will mount strips of rubber under the tanks so they will not sit in trapped water. They have angle iron (alluminum) to be able to thru BOLT them securely to the platform. Do I need to ground them to prevent electrolosys? I would think not because there is nothing electrical touching the tanks. But not sure.
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Old 11-13-2017, 04:37 PM   #103
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Believe it or not the transom is solid. So transom stays like it is. Gonna start glueing it all together this week. Tanks first then the floor.
just a fyi I checked my transom by having the motor tilted up and pushing up and down as hard as I could and there is no flex on my transom. the boat is a 95. I put a hang on back transducer on this weekend and when I drilled the first hole nothing came out I drilled the second and I had a solid stream of water. I would hate to see you rebuild the whole boat and have the transom get soft in a few years
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Old 11-13-2017, 04:41 PM   #104
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just a fyi I checked my transom by having the motor tilted up and pushing up and down as hard as I could and there is no flex on my transom. the boat is a 95. I put a hang on back transducer on this weekend and when I drilled the first hole nothing came out I drilled the second and I had a solid stream of water. I would hate to see you rebuild the whole boat and have the transom get soft in a few years

I hear ya. I did that also. I drilled two holes to mount the transducer. No water and the wood shavings from drilling was dry. Hard to believe. But I'm gonna roll with it. If it needs changing down the road. It's going to the shop. I think that's out of my league.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:27 AM   #105
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I have a question about my new aluminum tanks. I have no sending units in them. Don't need em as I have flowmeter. The tanks will be mounted on top of the stringers. I have made a platform out of coosa for them to sit on. I will mount strips of rubber under the tanks so they will not sit in trapped water. They have angle iron (alluminum) to be able to thru BOLT them securely to the platform. Do I need to ground them to prevent electrolosys? I would think not because there is nothing electrical touching the tanks. But not sure.
you should not have electrolysis unless there's stray current leaking from elsewhere in your hull. as long as all of your wiring is properly ran and grounded you'll be fine.

aluminum fuel tanks should have a #8 bonding wire ran from the fuel fill to the tab on the tank. the sending unit should also use a #8 wire to bond to the tab. since you dont have a sending unit i think all you need to do is run the bonding wire from the fill to the tank.

on boats that are stored in the water you should bond the tank to the boats ground along with all of your metal thru hulls
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:39 PM   #106
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Thanks. I thought so just checking. It's stays inside on a trailer. Thanks for response.
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:42 PM   #107
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This is the floor for the tanks. Putty them in today
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:59 PM   #108
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Wow its coming along great!
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:37 PM   #109
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Looking good! You’ve been busy.

do you plan to add flotation foam to the sponsons?

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Old 11-14-2017, 04:01 PM   #110
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No foam. None.
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:58 AM   #111
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No foam. None.
So did you remove all the foam from the hull? Are you concerned about the lack of flotation in the hull at all now?
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Old 11-17-2017, 03:40 PM   #112
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No I'm not concerned. It's all gone. And wet.
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Old 11-17-2017, 03:42 PM   #113
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Got it ready for floor tomorrow!
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Old 11-18-2017, 03:32 PM   #114
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Floors are finally done. I like it. My back is gonna b happy. Workin in those pontoons are bad.
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Old 11-20-2017, 06:24 AM   #115
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Should I tab the floor to the walls with 1808 or chopped strand mat. I have the edges all puttied in. And how wide would you run the tabbing up the wall and onto the floor?
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Old 11-20-2017, 06:48 AM   #116
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When I fiberglassed the deck I cut the sheets wide so it tabbed up the sides about 5 inches
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Old 11-20-2017, 06:56 AM   #117
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The air filled nidacore has some flotation properties. As soon as I make a cooler out of one I'll throw it in the ocean and see just how much.

What are your plans for hatches? Boats looking great so far, cleaner, leaner and more usable than how it comes from the factory
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Old 11-20-2017, 07:43 AM   #118
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The air filled nidacore has some flotation properties. As soon as I make a cooler out of one I'll throw it in the ocean and see just how much.

What are your plans for hatches? Boats looking great so far, cleaner, leaner and more usable than how it comes from the factory
I ordered two large hatches for the pontoons in front. Completely rigged with gutters and drains. On the back near the bilges I have the armstrong 10x20 waterproof hatches.
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:32 AM   #119
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Should I tab the floor to the walls with 1808 or chopped strand mat. I have the edges all puttied in. And how wide would you run the tabbing up the wall and onto the floor?
definitely 1808! CSM doesnt provide much structural strength. use a narrow strip, then a slightly wider strip, then wider again strip

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Old 11-20-2017, 04:58 PM   #120
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definitely 1808! CSM doesnt provide much structural strength. use a narrow strip, then a slightly wider strip, then wider again strip

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Thanks I appreciate it. especially the diagram!!
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