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Old 08-03-2017, 10:26 AM   #1
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Default Researching how to recore transom

Sorry for the long post..

I have a new to me boat that I am slowly learning has a strange history.. it is hard to ID the hull, it was sold to me as one thing and I am learning that it is probably something different. It was sold to me as a 17' 1994 MonArk, I use it almost exclusively in bays and rivers, might start taking trips around the sandy hook to very inshore ocean.

Thankfully it floats and fishes totally fine (for now?), but I have some concerns with the structural integrity. The previous owner(s) did not seem to be overly concerned about sealing things that were screwed into the boat.

I know the transom has some amount of water in it because when I removed the old transducer one screw hole dripped water and the other was obviously wet inside. I dried them both as best as possible, filled them with marine tex and then epoxied a stern saver over that.

The transom eyes for trailer tie downs have some play in them and when I reach into an access hatch I can feel they are bolted into wet wood. I can push the bolts from the inside and make it bulge outwards. It feels really thin in that area.

At the moment the transom has very little flex if I put all my weight on the lower unit, I know that is a dumb test but is at least something. It has no cracks or bubbles or anything like that. It sounds hollow in some areas, and solid in some areas, the hollow spots are are far away from the motor mount.

I am starting to research a possible transom and stringer rebuild.

This is the first boat I have owned, I have zero experience with fiberglass and resin, I have some tools but will need to purchase a lot for this project. I am handy enough to get it done. If I have to pay someone else to do it, I'd rather sell it or scrap it for parts and start over.

My first question is how do determine if/when I even need to re-do the transom? Obviously I won't be pulling tubes from the transom eyes but it seems to operating fine at the moment for motoring around in the bay.

If I was to begin redoing it, the first hurdle for me is getting the motor off. Let's say I figure that out. What do you guys think the best approach to the transom will be? It seems like it would be easiest to cut the outside skin off but I know a lot of people object to that. If I cut from the inside, what do I do about the "seats" in each corner? It doesn't seem like there is a lot of structural integrity in the transom adjacent to those seats, does that even matter?

If I start on the transom how will I know if the stringers are toast as well?
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:43 AM   #2
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In this section look for the seahunt project, tribal rage did a great job from outside. Mine is the hydra sport and im doing it from inside. Both have pros and cons.
My transom felt fine with twin 200s, and they didnt move, but
was toast on inside.
Aa far as getting engine off. Take pics and disconnect wires and then label wires. After that engine only held on with 4 bolts
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:54 PM   #3
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Default Here is how i did mine

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Old 08-03-2017, 01:55 PM   #4
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Default More pictures

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Old 08-03-2017, 01:58 PM   #5
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Crazy fish what type of plywood did you use and did you use epoxy, poly, or vinylester?
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:33 PM   #6
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Used two pieces of 3/4 marine ply wood glued and screwed together
Plylestor and bonded too the hull and 3 layers of 1708 with each pice getting bigger
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:47 PM   #7
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You could always cut out the back of the transom. Get out the bad wood. Then glass the skin back on, brace it and pour in Arjay.

If you were on your game...this could be done in a weekend.
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Old 08-03-2017, 03:04 PM   #8
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Thanks Crazyfizh! Very Helpful and looks solid! Is this still a work in progress? Please continue to post photos
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Old 08-03-2017, 03:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midcap View Post
You could always cut out the back of the transom. Get out the bad wood. Then glass the skin back on, brace it and pour in Arjay.

If you were on your game...this could be done in a weekend.
I have been looking into pourable solutions. The seacast website seems to be pretty adamant about not cutting out the rear skin..
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taz_pagri View Post
I have been looking into pourable solutions. The seacast website seems to be pretty adamant about not cutting out the rear skin..
I am not sure why.

I am pretty sure flying Norseman and coastal fiberglass did their transom that way.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taz_pagri View Post
I have been looking into pourable solutions. The seacast website seems to be pretty adamant about not cutting out the rear skin..
Quote:
Originally Posted by midcap View Post
You could always cut out the back of the transom. Get out the bad wood. Then glass the skin back on, brace it and pour in Arjay.

If you were on your game...this could be done in a weekend.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taz_pagri View Post
I have been looking into pourable solutions. The seacast website seems to be pretty adamant about not cutting out the rear skin..

most who use pourable transom repair remove the core with a chain saw and long chisels to preserve the original structure of the boat...then pour the transom....there are several videos online demonstrating the process....

I don't picture someone cutting the skin off, removing the core, glassing the skin back on and pouring the transom in a weekend....not to mention the amount of finish work involved....
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Old 08-13-2017, 04:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bladenbullet View Post
most who use pourable transom repair remove the core with a chain saw and long chisels to preserve the original structure of the boat...then pour the transom....there are several videos online demonstrating the process....

I don't picture someone cutting the skin off, removing the core, glassing the skin back on and pouring the transom in a weekend....not to mention the amount of finish work involved....


you mean,injecting gorilla glue into the transom won't be a great repair ??
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:12 AM   #13
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you mean,injecting gorilla glue into the transom won't be a great repair ??
it must be hard being you....don't worry...somebody loves you somewhere...we just get a kick out of you...

and youre still a troll...
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Old 08-13-2017, 07:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bladenbullet View Post
most who use pourable transom repair remove the core with a chain saw and long chisels to preserve the original structure of the boat...then pour the transom....there are several videos online demonstrating the process....

I don't picture someone cutting the skin off, removing the core, glassing the skin back on and pouring the transom in a weekend....not to mention the amount of finish work involved....
I should have said long weekend.

If the transom is really bad 3 days.

But like you said, if you don't want to deal with finish work, just crack out the chain saw.

I did a few transoms and the edges of the transom are almost always dry.
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Old 08-13-2017, 03:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bladenbullet View Post
it must be hard being you....don't worry...somebody loves you somewhere...we just get a kick out of you...

and youre still a troll...




that's what you guys believe - injecting gorilla glue into an area where the core is dry rotted.why wouldn't you and the other genius suggest that ?
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jawz View Post
that's what you guys believe - injecting gorilla glue into an area where the core is dry rotted.why wouldn't you and the other genius suggest that ?
did anyone in the previous thread suggest replacing an entire transom with it?...or are you just making stuff up to further your trolling agenda?...proof was given of an effective repair...you cant bear to think its possible so you will continue to troll it until someone else joins your fight...so far no takers...sucks to be alone doesn't it?...

answer it in your head before you type it and prove my point further...youre a troll with nothing better to do or anything positive to offer...just read your own posts and it will be evident...

youre nothing but entertainment for everyone and you lose the credibility you think youre gaining every time you make one of your posts in an effort to discredit someone else...

so troll away...

my apologies to the op for allowing the troll to hijack the thread....he cant control himself...
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:00 AM   #17
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It seems like it is hard to really get all the wood out just by chiseling/drilling/chainsawing down through the cap, maybe it is worth it to have less glass work though. Also wouldn't it be really hard to determine if stringers need work as well?

My transom tiedowns are pretty high up and when I look at photos of transom rebuilds it doesn't look like the core material goes up that high to begin with, should the tie downs have been positioned lower to even be within the transom?
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