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Old 05-13-2017, 04:16 PM   #1
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Default Laminating Resin Question

When using laminating resin, is there a maximum amount of time one can wait before applying another layer of glass? I've tried to find the answer and everyone just says that it "stays tacky". Hypothetically, could someone lay out a few layers of glass and come back 24 hours later and do more?
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Old 05-13-2017, 06:14 PM   #2
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If the glass has cured more than 24 hours, it needs a going over with the grinder before the next layer. Don't go crazy, just remove the shiny surface to expose some un-reacted polyester bonding sites. Less than 24 hours just lay a new layer. This is a simple answer as there are many types of resin on the market, each with its own characteristics. Some general purpose resins leave active sites for a long time and don't require grinding. A DCPD resin has a much more complete cure. When in doubt, hit it lightly with the grinder.
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Old 05-13-2017, 06:27 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Island Marine Group View Post
If the glass has cured more than 24 hours, it needs a going over with the grinder before the next layer. Don't go crazy, just remove the shiny surface to expose some un-reacted polyester bonding sites. Less than 24 hours just lay a new layer. This is a simple answer as there are many types of resin on the market, each with its own characteristics. Some general purpose resins leave active sites for a long time and don't require grinding. A DCPD resin has a much more complete cure. When in doubt, hit it lightly with the grinder.
Thanks. If there's still tack to the resin, though, wouldn't the grinder wheel get kinda gummy?
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:21 AM   #4
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If there's still tack to the resin after 24 you may have a problem. It should be fully cured by then.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:49 AM   #5
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If there's still tack to the resin after 24 you may have a problem. It should be fully cured by then.
ah. ok. So a laminating resin does eventually fully cure to full hardness. Interesting.

I had always thought that a laminating resin (without wax) was used so that it never fully cured, allowing another layer of glass to be applied without having to sand first. And then a finish resin (with wax and the kind that the average consumer would likely buy) or a finish gelcoat would be applied as the final coat to seal off the air and allow the layers beneath to fully and finally cure.
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Old 05-14-2017, 05:38 AM   #6
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A few year back lam resin would stay sticky on the surface for quite a long time. No need to grind. Then one day I noticed that 1 day old lay up was hard and shiny. WTF? I would have bet anything I had waxed resin. Supplier told me that lam resin now has additives to reduce styrene emissions. Makes it cure hard. I didn't believe it, or like it, but its been that way ever since. After 24 hours I grind..
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Old 05-14-2017, 05:55 PM   #7
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And to further complicate things, yes, it will still gum up your disc once it's not tacky.
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:49 AM   #8
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Laminating resin without wax will not fully cure to a hard sandable surface. It should still be tacky after 24 hours if there was no wax. You will be fine to add more layers.
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:51 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by coreytrx View Post
Laminating resin without wax will not fully cure to a hard sandable surface. It should still be tacky after 24 hours if there was no wax. You will be fine to add more layers.
thank you
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:13 AM   #10
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sub'd, because these responses are contradictory and I don't want to be left confused...


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Old 05-16-2017, 08:22 PM   #11
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To further complicate the issue (and send Lordwrench into a tail spin ), it depends on the resin. Most boats today are built with a DCPD (dicyclopentadiene) polyester. DCPD is an additive that reduces styrene emissions, not by capping off the styrene like a wax but by reducing the styrene content in resin. It generally has a 24 hour open window, meaning you can continuously laminate (no grinding) as long as you do it within that window. Some resins don't have DCPD in them and can remain reactive for several days so you could, in theory, laminate after waiting several days without grinding

If you are clogging your grinding discs faster than you are wearing them out, you can throw them in some acetone, let them soak a bit, and then wire brush the gunk out.
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Old 05-17-2017, 05:36 AM   #12
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you would have to work a lot harder than that, lol. The intricacies of lay up/tabbing/resin information is part of why I love the wealth of information and sharing on this site, the learning never stops and I appreciate the sharing of expertise.

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Old 05-17-2017, 05:54 AM   #13
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This is the stuff I'm using. Is it the DCDP resin?

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...minating+Resin
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:19 PM   #14
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Coores they buy their polyester resin from Mertons so you can get more info from him. He's a really nice guy and will be able to answer your questions. You can also buy it a lot cheaper direct from him. He's really quick shipping. Usually the same day plus you know you're getting fresh resin. That's were I get all my poly resin from.
Here's their website.
www.mertons.com
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Old 05-17-2017, 01:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coreytrx View Post
Coores they buy their polyester resin from Mertons so you can get more info from him. He's a really nice guy and will be able to answer your questions. You can also buy it a lot cheaper direct from him. He's really quick shipping. Usually the same day plus you know you're getting fresh resin. That's were I get all my poly resin from.
Here's their website.
www.mertons.com

Mertons is the mang!
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:40 AM   #16
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Not denying that resins are different and some may have changed. The laminating resin that I used to buy would stay tacky forever. The guy that sold it had a small wood block on his counter that was 20 years old and still tacky with the resin on it.
The resin would harden and skin over only when deprived of air.

That way it fully cured when covered by the next layer, or when wax was mixed in. The wax would "float" to the surface and deprive the resin from air. That was only used on the last layer.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:49 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by muskrattown View Post
Not denying that resins are different and some may have changed. The laminating resin that I used to buy would stay tacky forever. The guy that sold it had a small wood block on his counter that was 20 years old and still tacky with the resin on it.
The resin would harden and skin over only when deprived of air.

That way it fully cured when covered by the next layer, or when wax was mixed in. The wax would "float" to the surface and deprive the resin from air. That was only used on the last layer.
that was basically my understanding of it all, as well.

I did my first two layers yesterday before it got too dark to work. So, i'll find out today when I get back to the boat if it stayed tacky.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:59 AM   #18
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laminating resin should stay tacky well after it's hardenen. If it feels dry, try and wipe some acetone on it after its been more than a day or two and it will tack it right back up.
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:13 PM   #19
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got to the boat and the stuff was tacky, if not borderline still wet. Kinda gummy, I guess. This is my first time working with laminating resin so I haven't a clue what it's supposed to look or feel like. Laid another layer today and then I'll do my final layer tomorrow with a regular resin.
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:19 PM   #20
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The question is what are you up to ?
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