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Let The Overhaul Begin (Again)

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Old 06-05-2018, 09:33 PM
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I got epoxy resin/hardener from fiberglass site, it has a 3-1 mix ratio and I was meticulous on measuring the two and keeping it in the house (A/C) instead of the garage. Not to worry, my kids are all grown and gone so no inquiring minds . . . . The resin claims to have a 30 minute pot life and after mixing in the cup I poured it into the plastic paint pan and it did well for about 15 minutes then as I said it seemed to instant kick into a block and started melting the pan. I know this is a learning curve here never having done this before. With the results so far I'm not looking forward to the plan on a single layer of glass across the transom (7 ft or so X 3 ft) before any plywood goes in unless it would be possible to get the glass as flat as possible and just work my way across mixing smaller batches as I go, I kept having to "chase" the resin running down the patch while wetting it out and keeping the resin stirred. I've got a bunch of gallon size plastic ice cream buckets stashed for this job btw
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:33 AM
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Looking great! I got a bunch of disposable aluminum lasagna pans, after mixing up the resin, spread it out in the pan and keep it moving. Save your pans and after they cure you re-use them if you want. The pans work good when your using a roller to apply the resin. It's all about the learning curve.
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Old 06-06-2018, 03:17 PM
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Good idea Dunahoo , I'll get some but in the meantime I got that metal paint tray. Yeah, the learning curve, I already went through one of those with my Mercedes, those cars (the W126 and C126 chassis, I have the C126 a '91 560SEC coupe'. I owned a '91 300SE short sedan for 12 years and "cut my teeth" with it) are for the most part SO simple to work on once you read and figure how they are put together I just finished rebuilding the drive-shaft but ya gotta drop the exhaust just to be able to get at it. I figure if I can work on a "high dollar" road machine I should be able to figure out fiberglassing

Went today and got some lumber, plywood and 2X4's to make a work table, already have the saw horses made, gonna seal it with some CPES I have here and also seal the piece of wood I have for backing the bow eye (I'll feel like a mad scientist with the experimenting *wringing me hands with an evil grin*). Also gonna make a rack for the glass cloth and make it where when I'm not actually outside working with it, can easily be taken off and brought inside. I now also have a good stout awning thingy so I can work in the shade. I can also move it over my patio for when I cook out (I just love multi-use items )
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Old 06-06-2018, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by wooky_chew_bacca View Post
I got epoxy resin/hardener from fiberglass site, it has a 3-1 mix ratio and I was meticulous on measuring the two and keeping it in the house (A/C) instead of the garage. Not to worry, my kids are all grown and gone so no inquiring minds . . . . The resin claims to have a 30 minute pot life and after mixing in the cup I poured it into the plastic paint pan and it did well for about 15 minutes then as I said it seemed to instant kick into a block and started melting the pan. I know this is a learning curve here never having done this before. With the results so far I'm not looking forward to the plan on a single layer of glass across the transom (7 ft or so X 3 ft) before any plywood goes in unless it would be possible to get the glass as flat as possible and just work my way across mixing smaller batches as I go, I kept having to "chase" the resin running down the patch while wetting it out and keeping the resin stirred. I've got a bunch of gallon size plastic ice cream buckets stashed for this job btw
check what temp. the instruction say with that ratio, it may be for cooler weather, most of them use 75 degrees as a starting point, you may have to reduce the amount of hardener in hotter weather
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbill1963 View Post
check what temp. the instruction say with that ratio, it may be for cooler weather, most of them use 75 degrees as a starting point, you may have to reduce the amount of hardener in hotter weather
Yeah I saw that, it says the 3-1 ratio @ 77 degrees and when it was mentioned by you about being "too hot" I thought about cutting back on the hardener. So with upper 80 and into 90+ degree temps how much should I cut it back without creating a goo that won't set properly ? Maybe a 3-2/3 or even 1/2 ? Any and all help here IS appreciated.

I did notice that the patches where resin was laid against the plastic backer (cardboard with plastic sheeting further backed by a square of 3/4 ply screwed into place over the big hole) had no blush at all, will just need a light sanding for filler putty mix (Cabosil and resin), and the inside that cured with air contact the blush was minimal. A scrub and some sanding to ready it for next layer of patch or layer side to side. All corners will be filleted to minimize any sharp bends, resin, cabosil, and chopped fibers "peanut butter" I think its called (Sorry, rambling on and thinking ahead
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:57 PM
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with regular polyester resin i use 10cc to 1000 cc and that sets up pretty fast in hot weather, not sure about epoxy resin
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Old 06-08-2018, 05:06 AM
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You can’t cut back on hardner with epoxy like you do with polyester. Epoxy manufactures make different hardners for different temps or set up times but you must keep the same ratio. Mix smaller batches in larger containers or get a slow hardner.
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:40 PM
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Yes Dave, I e-mailed the vendor, reply back was no it has to be 3-1 ratio and they based everything on 77 degree temps. We're now in Summer with 80's-90's and up til the end of September. They only have one speed of hardener, medium, so I hit Amazon and found/ordered some extra slow "tropical" hardener, 40-50 minute pot life @ 75 degrees. THAT will give me some time when rolling the one piece side to side glass that will go in before the plywood and then another layer over the wood. This transom I want to be bullet proof as well as water proof.

I was busy today as I noticed a couple of bubbles (a couple, one at the top and down one side and a larger one at the bottom) in the motor hole patch my fault for not prepping the edges of the hole (another part of that learning curve) so out/off came the patch and I used my sander attached to my shop vac and tapered the edges down to a thinner edge. I cut 3 new patch layers and got one in, let it set up and start it's cure. I'll get one more tomorrow and then the next day (if the rain holds off ). While it's been raining I've been revisiting u-tube videos, gonna mix up some PB&J tomorrow and glue in the stem wood up in the bow and if all goes good put some glass over it then the stainless U-bolt

I was thinking a little bit ago (yeah, a dangerous activity sometimes ) when I go to lay the glass side to side on the transom, to keep it from sliding down to leave some extra glass at the top and tape it in place on the gunnel. The gunnel back there has a "whoop-dee-do" L shaped ledge at the very top that later a piece of wood will go, this wood will be used to re-attach the deck/cap back to the hull. No pics today as the backing is still on the hull while the new patch cures
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:12 AM
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If the fiberglass is sliding down the transom there is probably to much resin in it. Try using a fin roller to break the air bubbles and force the extra resin to the top.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:31 AM
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I did that with the bubble buster, it took a few minutes before it started to set and slid no more. I applied the resin to the glass before setting it in place, that's likely the reason there was some extra resin to roll out. I'll get the hang of this sooner or later (probably about the time I get finished with the boat )
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Old 06-21-2018, 05:59 AM
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Now a few days later, I let the first layer of motor hole cover v2.0 completely cure, did the sand and acetone wipe down and added the other two layers. After about 2 hours I sanded the hard edges a bit and made a smooth transition with some putty (resin and cabosil), next day the same for the third layer, smooth as a baby's . . . . Just a very thin layer of putty will be needed on the outside of the hole, no bubbles this time. I also filled in some of the mounting holes that won't be used. I held off getting the plywood last week, waiting on the UPS Truck then off to get it. I might be getting the hang of this 'glassing (somewhat) but I got some extra slow kick resin the other day for the side to side layer and also for when I set the plywood in place, 2 layers as 1 piece with glass in between. MAN has it been HOT outside, 95+
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Old 06-21-2018, 06:21 AM
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Looks great!
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:08 PM
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Thanks Dave, tomorrow the "picnic awning" goes up and I'll start on the template for the transom ply, once I get it done I can cut a piece of glass to go side to side, top to bottom for the transom and get started applying it in place. Planning on cutting it with tabbing about 4 inches wide (this is gonna be one bullet proof transom right here). The double ply will be glassed in against that

I have a question to throw out for anyone who might have had a similar set up, thinking ahead. The strakes have a slight curve in them stern to bow and I had the idea of cutting to fit 2X4's and glue them down on their side in a bed of putty and cutting a straight channel in them for 3/4 ply stringers then tab the whole thing to the hull, that way the stringers will be squared. The boat originally had 2X6 or 2X8 stringers tabbed in with varying gaps between (I hope this is making sense what I had and what my idea is)
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Old Today, 07:25 AM
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I had a little scare last night I mixed up a batch of "fairing putty", cabosil and resin, filled in a couple of low spots, mounting bolt holes that won't be used, a gouged place on the bow where the winch bracket had rubbed due to a missing roller from years ago, and the rivet holes along the mating joint on the gunnel. There was a storm a blowing North of me and I figured I'd be ok because we were enjoying another hot day of sunshine until . . . . . . . . a cell popped up headed straight for us, the putty was starting to set when it hit, wind from all directions and rain. I went to check after it blew over and the goo had a "skin" on it but wasn't hard, kinda rubbery feeling. This morning I checked it and it was hard and set properly (WHEW, dodged the bullet there ) I'll let it set some more before sanding it smooth
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