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23' Seacraft rebuild/stretch job

Old 09-05-2019, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 2TDave View Post
Hurricanes are hell on livers! Back in ‘04 with Francis I cut a tree down that was leaning on my roof during the break when the eye passed over. Laid the tree down nice and soft on the metal roof where it slid down taking me and the chainsaw with it. I rode that tree down with my free arm wrapped around it until it hit the ground straight up and down and I slid down it to my feet. Just a little rash on the arm but man I hurt my liver that day.
Sounds like your liver was probably already being beaten pretty hard during the lead up to and first half of the storm if that was the plan you had when you ventured out with your saw
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
Console just about ready to start glassing
How do you get the edge round like that ???
Old 09-06-2019, 02:13 PM
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Default Boat Floor

Originally Posted by bills106 View Post


Thanks Anita Fish! Knowing Sea Crafts sit low we raised the deck some by using 2" honeycomb, between that, the lighter materials, extension and bracket it shouldn't be a weet feet boat! Unless the motors get bigger

We routered out the core for a collection box then buried 2" pipe out the transom. The foam pieces with the X in this pic got routered for the grates.
What material do you use for the boat floor and how do you mount it down ? any screw ?
Old 09-06-2019, 05:47 PM
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With the increased running surface but minimal weight gain do you think you’ll gain any efficiency from the stretch?
Old 09-07-2019, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommytuanle View Post
How do you get the edge round like that ???
Sometimes a large groundcover router bit (1-1/2" or 2" radius!), sometimes a mini grinder followed by board sanding. The big router bits are scary on a handheld but cut the foam like butter!

Originally Posted by Tommytuanle View Post
What material do you use for the boat floor and how do you mount it down ? any screw ?
That deck is 2" Nida Core honeycomb glassed with two layers of 1700 cloth on each side. I think we popped a couple screws/washers in to hold it while the epoxy cured but they were pulled afterward.
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Old 09-07-2019, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jcyr View Post
With the increased running surface but minimal weight gain do you think you’ll gain any efficiency from the stretch?
Doubtful any difference would be measurable. The loading per sqft on the bottom will be reduced but the wetted surface increased if all other things stayed equal.
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Old 09-07-2019, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
Doubtful any difference would be measurable. The loading per sqft on the bottom will be reduced but the wetted surface increased if all other things stayed equal.
How are the shops up there now Bill?
Old 09-07-2019, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gofastsandman View Post
How are the shops up there now Bill?
Everything fared really well here gfs, we just got grazed by the eyewall and even with the 90 or so winds we got there was almost no damage. Power was restored by 500 yesterday there. I drove an hour home and saw only one tree down that might have clipped a powerline and nothing else! Florence last year cleaned put the marginal stuff.

More damage here inland, still no power at home. Shay took the worst beating I'm afraid. Dont know if he stayed but my gf showed me a video on fake book of some guys running a deadrise skiff down the road, one of them looked VERY familiar!
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
Everything fared really well here gfs, we just got grazed by the eyewall and even with the 90 or so winds we got there was almost no damage. Power was restored by 500 yesterday there. I drove an hour home and saw only one tree down that might have clipped a powerline and nothing else! Florence last year cleaned put the marginal stuff.

More damage here inland, still no power at home. Shay took the worst beating I'm afraid. Dont know if he stayed but my gf showed me a video on fake book of some guys running a deadrise skiff down the road, one of them looked VERY familiar!
Been thinking about Shay--raising that cottage was a very good plan it seems. It is a mess out there.
Old 09-10-2019, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
Sometimes a large groundcover router bit (1-1/2" or 2" radius!), sometimes a mini grinder followed by board sanding. The big router bits are scary on a handheld but cut the foam like butter!



That deck is 2" Nida Core honeycomb glassed with two layers of 1700 cloth on each side. I think we popped a couple screws/washers in to hold it while the epoxy cured but they were pulled afterward.
what foam did you use for the console?
Old 09-10-2019, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jdc View Post
Been thinking about Shay--raising that cottage was a very good plan it seems. It is a mess out there.
Shay is ok, talked to him yesterday. House didnt flood but lost a lot including his beer fridge! Said it got pretty ugly but help was pouring in.

Originally Posted by Jcyr View Post

what foam did you use for the console?
H60 Divinycell with Coosa inserts for top mounting and electronics panels.
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:05 AM
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I know the McMullans have committed to donating at least $5k worth of appliances through the Kingfish Cup for those who lost theirs.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:28 AM
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Gluing in the coosa inserts in the top

for the legs and outrigger bases.
Old 10-09-2019, 11:05 AM
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Woah woah woah. Slow down on the t top... looks like you glued two sheets of foam together, cut to shape, and then drilled out those holes...

did you use a hole hole saw or something else? That coosa the same size as the flange on the t top support, or bigger?

When I build mine I will put coosa or g10 in various places, but I don’t know how much larger the mounting surface needs to be to prevent separation from the hifferences in flexing properties of the materials... unless the skin on the t top takes care of that?

i will have to support outrigger bases, a radar mount, and some antenna mounts. Still working through my design on t top rod holders. I kind of want to make it independent of the pipework of the tower so that I can eventually build a new leaning post and run legs from post to ttop with an additional two rows of rod racks.
Old 10-09-2019, 11:32 AM
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Sorry Big Iron! Those are sheets of 1-1/4" H80 Divinycell but glued together with Gorilla glue (you can pick it up from the ends!) and yes, hole saw out 6" disks and replaced with coosa (actually Carbon Core Bluewater 28#). The mounting points won't have any pads on the bottom, just a T-top washer on top with 3/8" machine screws down into a plate welded and tapped in each upright tube. Very clean!

Tim provided us with full size drawings to overlay and cut out not just the pads but also wire chases, antenna mounts, outrigger bases, lights and a rocket launcher. I'm trying to figure out how to upload those drawings, very impressive detail!

Tim is adamant not to ever tie in to a leaning post but this one will get the launcher top mounted with G10 blocking and independant from the pipework.

Glued the pads in before lunch and glassing the first layer of 1800 on the bottom now!

Last edited by bills106; 10-09-2019 at 11:38 AM.
Old 10-09-2019, 12:45 PM
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:11 PM
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So you dont build it on a hard top mold table?
is it flat?
Old 10-09-2019, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HarvestTime View Post
So you dont build it on a hard top mold table?
is it flat?
No, never used a mold table or any other molds for that matter. This one will have 2" crown side to side (to match the transom) and 1" fore and aft. That's the bottom side but it's blocked up with the crown in it now, we'll flip tomorrow and set it on a couple of crowned battens to start all the topside cutting in. After the top is done with leveling blocks, G10 inserts and radar pod, we'll flip back over to add the electronics box and leveling pads for riggers then one final layer of glass.
Old 10-09-2019, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
No, never used a mold table or any other molds for that matter. This one will have 2" crown side to side (to match the transom) and 1" fore and aft. That's the bottom side but it's blocked up with the crown in it now, we'll flip tomorrow and set it on a couple of crowned battens to start all the topside cutting in. After the top is done with leveling blocks, G10 inserts and radar pod, we'll flip back over to add the electronics box and leveling pads for riggers then one final layer of glass.
Hope I'm not being dense but i'm facinated by this. How did you get the proper crowning of the foam before you laid the glass on it?
Old 10-09-2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Prospective View Post
Hope I'm not being dense but i'm facinated by this. How did you get the proper crowning of the foam before you laid the glass on it?
Foam is just like any other core material, it will bend and curve when you let it. Unless it's a very high density (and this H80 is not), it's not difficult to shape it at all. When you have only one side glassed it's really flexible and easily shaped, it's when you glass the second side you're pretty much locking it in place.

There are many methods we use to force it into shape, thermoforming and vacuum bagging are our primary two but for a simple hardtop, no need to overcomplicate it.

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