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Repair Faded Yamaha Multifuction Gauge

Old 02-06-2016, 11:35 AM
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Default Repair Faded Yamaha Multifuction Gauge

So, I have had a couple of my Yamaha multifunction gauges fade on me. Like many folks, I am cheap and didn't want to buy 2 new gauges at $250 a pop. After much research and experimenting with multiple materials, I think I have a fix for this and wanted to share my findings.

The last gauge I repaired was my port tach. As you can see it is somewhat faded. I already fixed the Speed gauge, but it was faded to the point it was unreadable.

Here is the port tach prior to the repair:



Here's a close up picture of the faded gauge:




I bought the polarizer film here (PFHC-AG/HC with adhesive): http://polarization.com/polarshop/pr...products_id=32

I used mirrored screen protector film as the LCD reflector: http://www.rakuten.com/sr/searchresults#qu=251028522

First, you have to break off the 4 melted plastic tabs holding the 2 parts of the gauge case together


You'll then need to move the wire grommet back from the rear guage housing (this can also be done before removing the "tabs". Be careful not to put too much pressure on the wires as they are attached the electronics inside the gauge.



With the back of the gauge off, exposing the electronics, break off the 4 tabs holding the electronics to the front of the housing


Here are the electronics removed from the housing


The LCD is held in place by a metal retainer. Bend out the legs of the retainer so it can be removed from the LCD and electronics


This is the LCD with the retainer removed (note the rubber "conductor")


Here is the LCD and "conductor" removed from the electronics


Remove the front polarizer (may want to heat a little so the adhesive softens):


remove the rear polarizer and reflective material (you may want to clean the front of the LCD before removing the rear polarizer)


Note the back side of the LCD (where the conductor is located):


Your going to need lots of this (and patience) to remove the adhesive:


This is the most time consuming part of the process. It takes me about an hour just to get all the adhesive off. I found the microfiber towel worked better than a simple terry cloth towel. I guess you could use a razor blade, but I didn't want to damage the glass



Almost there...


Here is the polarizer film.
Remember

which side is the sticky side (labeling helps). Also, the front and rear polarizers need to be at a 90 degree rotation from each other. Don't forget to remove the protective material on the rear polarizer before attaching the reflective material to it Using a small kitchen roller helped to ensure I didn't trap any bubbles

Here is the LCD with the polarizers and reflective material installed


Put the electronics back together and test it (I have a DC power supply - a battery could also be used). Black negative, yellow positive, blue is for the backlight


Put the electronics back in the case and test it again. Use the gauge mounting bracket to hold the gauge case together, mix up some epoxy and reseal the tabs on the outside of the case


Put the wire grommet back in place and let the epoxy sit overnight.

Here is a picture of the gauge installed. You can see the difference between the 2 gauges on the left and right. The gauges on the right are original. There is a visible difference between the gauges due to the materials I used and the original that came with the gauges.


It took me 2 hours to repair each gauge. On the tach gauge, I got in a hurry and didn't trim the excess polarizer material off the LCD as well as I should have. When I put the retaining plate on it, it created a couple of bubbles on the side, but wasn't noticeable once inside the gauge case.

I don't know how well the materials I used will hold up to UV exposure.

I tried for a long time to find a supplier for the rear LCD transflective film, but none of the manufacturer's would take any time to discuss it or send me samples.

Hopefully this can help someone else save some money, as I was looking at almost $1,000 to replace all my gauges.
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:50 PM
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Amazing write up! This will help a ton of people!
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:16 AM
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Wow impressed. Nice job.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:36 AM
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I am getting theaterials this week and trying this weekend thank you
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:45 AM
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Thanks for sharing!
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:07 PM
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Jeremy,

Great tutorial! Just to see if I have it right: The LCD is sandwiched between a piece of polarizer film on each side oriented at 90 degrees to eachother and then a piece of reflective film is attached to the back of the LCD over the piece of polarizer film?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 02-08-2016, 01:54 PM
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Mark,

That sounds correct.

To clarify, from the front, you have:
polarizer
LCD
polarizer (90 degrees from front)
reflective material
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:08 PM
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Perfect! Thanks,
Mark
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Old 02-08-2016, 04:51 PM
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Excellent
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:11 PM
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Great write up!!!!!
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:46 AM
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Excellent tutorial. Can you give some insight as to how you removed the internal tabs on the board. I'm a little leery for fear of damaging the board in the process. Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:08 AM
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I used a small screwdriver, applied pressure to the side (as if you were "popping" off a snap) so, if/when it did slip, I would be stabbed instead of damaging the board. Suggest wearing safety glasses as the tab can "shear" off and go flying. The lighter green part of the board is the trace. Try to work so the force is going away from the traces.
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:57 AM
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Dang! Wish I saw this before buying new tach/speed gauges. Good work
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:27 AM
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Nice! My guages are still in great shape but at some point i know i will need this.
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:21 AM
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Thank you for sharing this great information!! I ordered my materials and will redo all my gauges.. Perfect timing since I am having console re-glassed and non skid done...
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:47 PM
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Thanks for this write-up.

My gauge isn't faded, but the front plastic lens sees a lot of UV and was cloudy and crazed. I masked the plastic bezel and used a 3M headlight cleaner kit to make it clear again. Worked fairly well but it still has some of the deeper crazing on it.

Any tips for the front lens?
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:12 PM
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This worked well for an older vehicle we had: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:19 AM
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What an excellent write up. I had a gage go out and found a used on to replace it, and of course its faded. I will definitely give this a shot. Thanks for sharing!!!!!
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:59 AM
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Absolutely outstanding, I used a new razor blade and rubbing alcohol to clean the glass. I placed the glass on a piece of wood to help prevent scratches and cracks in the glass.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:29 AM
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duplicate post

Last edited by rcm55; 03-07-2016 at 10:14 AM.
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