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tips to avoid needing to back boat so far down at ramp?

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tips to avoid needing to back boat so far down at ramp?

Old 01-19-2015, 07:04 PM
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Default tips to avoid needing to back boat so far down at ramp?

Hey all - to get my boat off the trailer, I need to back the tow vehicle (GMC Acadia) down to where the rear tires are just about in the water. Then the boat will come off. Anything else, it just sticks to the trailer, even with a strong juicing in reverse.

Problem is, when I'm alone and with the boat in this position, I have no choice but to roll up the pants and walk into the water to climb up on the tongue then into the boat to unhook from the trailer and back the boat off. So I'm a cold, wet sandy mess before even leaving the dock. If I had another person, this wouldn't be an issue because somebody would already be in the boat...

I noticed that my trailer has the standard little black 3 inch roller than would normally touch the bow near the bow eye. But on either side of this, for some reason, it has these really large (like 9 inch by a inch wide) yellow rubber wheels. They don't roll. So when the boat is pulled up tight, the bow hits these mounted to either side of the little black roller.

So I'm thinking - with these large disks, the boat thus sits about 4 inches farther back on the trailer. The boat is pretty light - I think about 1300 or so with motor. As for tongue weight, I can pick it up - not too easily, but it can be done. When I hitch up, I notice it pushes the rear of my Acadia down about 1.5 inches.

So I'm curious here if those disks were installed to keep the boat a bit farther back on the trailer, and if perhaps it's still not enough. The trailer riser with the winch - it happens to be mounted at a place where it simply cannot be moved. So I can't just slide it back some.

Any thoughts here? It this just normal?
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by denemante View Post
Hey all - to get my boat off the trailer, I need to back the tow vehicle (GMC Acadia) down to where the rear tires are just about in the water. Then the boat will come off. Anything else, it just sticks to the trailer, even with a strong juicing in reverse.

Problem is, when I'm alone and with the boat in this position, I have no choice but to roll up the pants and walk into the water to climb up on the tongue then into the boat to unhook from the trailer and back the boat off. So I'm a cold, wet sandy mess before even leaving the dock. If I had another person, this wouldn't be an issue because somebody would already be in the boat...

I noticed that my trailer has the standard little black 3 inch roller than would normally touch the bow near the bow eye. But on either side of this, for some reason, it has these really large (like 9 inch by a inch wide) yellow rubber wheels. They don't roll. So when the boat is pulled up tight, the bow hits these mounted to either side of the little black roller.

So I'm thinking - with these large disks, the boat thus sits about 4 inches farther back on the trailer. The boat is pretty light - I think about 1300 or so with motor. As for tongue weight, I can pick it up - not too easily, but it can be done. When I hitch up, I notice it pushes the rear of my Acadia down about 1.5 inches.

So I'm curious here if those disks were installed to keep the boat a bit farther back on the trailer, and if perhaps it's still not enough. The trailer riser with the winch - it happens to be mounted at a place where it simply cannot be moved. So I can't just slide it back some.

Any thoughts here? It this just normal?
I wear a pair of hip boots while launching or loading...
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:13 PM
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Have you gone to the Carolina Skiff Owners web site? I would post your question there, many have suffered the same issues with CS.

Another issue is that not all boat ramps are the same, some have deeper drops and some are a little shallower. These different angles will affect how your boat slides off and on the trailer.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:36 PM
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Some guys out here attach a long line to the bow and loop it around the winch post on the trailer. Back her down, hit the brakes hard and stop just before your tow vehicle tires get wet. That's a lot of energy forcing the boat off the trailer. Boat sodes off the trailer, but the bow line to winch post only lets the bow go back to about the end of the trailer.
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wdlfbio View Post
Some guys out here attach a long line to the bow and loop it around the winch post on the trailer. Back her down, hit the brakes hard and stop just before your tow vehicle tires get wet. That's a lot of energy forcing the boat off the trailer. Boat sodes off the trailer, but the bow line to winch post only lets the bow go back to about the end of the trailer.
I do that a lot. My bunks are pretty grippy, which is ideal on the street, but I need to snub the brakes with the trailer pretty deep in the water before the boat gets free. I stop before the trailer gets too far in, to unhook the boat, so only a loose bow line looped around the winch post connects the boat to the trailer.

Depending on wind, I'll run a line off the stern onto the dock, where it will still have slack when the bow line tightens up. That keeps the stern from drifting away, so once the boat is floating, I can generally secure the boat to the dock without any dunking or acrobatics.

As long as the tongue weight is good, I don't worry about getting the rear tires wet. Car undersides are designed to operate for extended periods in salt water that's far saltier than seawater, so a little seawater now & then is no big deal.
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:03 AM
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Have you considered an extension for your tow hitch? Is 12" enough. This one is $16.50.

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Old 01-20-2015, 04:13 AM
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went from 12" tires on my skiff to 8" , helped a lot . I tie my line to my roof rack loose launching then tight when retrieving so I can finish winching on dry land
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Old 01-20-2015, 05:21 AM
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I used to have a similar problem although not as bad.
Get a can of spray silicone. Spray the rollers until they roll freely.
Then next time you go boating, use the rest of the can to spray down your bunks. Best to do when you return and the bunks are dry. Do this once a year and it helps big time.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by lazyboi1212 View Post
I used to have a similar problem although not as bad.
Get a can of spray silicone. Spray the rollers until they roll freely.
Then next time you go boating, use the rest of the can to spray down your bunks. Best to do when you return and the bunks are dry. Do this once a year and it helps big time.
This is what I did for my pwc trailer. I was unable to back all the way down until the back end was floating, a little silicone on the bunks and it effortlessly slides off and into the water. Prior to backing down, I loosing the winch trap just a little, you have to keep it clipped and locked or your boat will end up on the ramp. I've been using this for two years and never had an issue.

Although getting the boat back on the trailer can be a little tricky as the bunks are slippery. Normally wife slowly motors pwc on trailer and I clip. If I am doing it solo, I just pull the pwc onto the trailer far enough that I clip and crank.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:41 AM
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This works well... it's a high quality silicone lubricant. Camie is the maker and also doubles as an excellent dielectric compound/lubricant.

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Old 01-20-2015, 02:58 PM
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When I had a Pathfinder, I'd crawl through the back to get to the tongue, a pain but kept dry. I have also tied the boat to the dock cleats, ( using an extra long dock line), and hit on the brakes. Comes off nice and slow when done right.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:23 PM
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I put a longer tongue on my trailer and I use the loop the line around the winch post trick. I have a roller trailer and contrary to what people think it does not fly off, I can push it off but when I unwind the winch with line looped round the winch post, I give it a push and it will move back just enough so its floating, but I can still climb over the bow and release the winch strap. Line is holding the boat so it can't go anywhere. Then I lower the drive, start it up, let it warm up, untie the line (still doesn't roll off) and shift to reverse and back off. Works very well.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:46 AM
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My method for solo launch.

Back down trailer till you can get to the winch without getting wet. Pull out 5' of strap but keep connected to boat.

Back boat down with a pop on the brakes to get it off the bow roller. Then pull forward a bit to get into boat without getting wet. Unclip, hop in fire it up and drive to dock. Dont forget you should always chalk your wheels on the truck.

Then tie off and go park the truck.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:51 AM
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Got a picture of the boat on the trailer?

Can you lower the bunks at all?
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Old 01-22-2015, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ken2 View Post

Can you lower the bunks at all?
13" wheels help too.
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Old 01-22-2015, 12:13 PM
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Yep, shorter wheels, and getting the boat as low as possible on the trailer are the only options I see.
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Old 01-22-2015, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ken2 View Post
Yep, shorter wheels, and getting the boat as low as possible on the trailer are the only options I see.
I also use a longer tongue. It's roughly 9-10" from ball to receiver
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Old 01-22-2015, 03:08 PM
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In essence, what you're looking at is moving the boat further to the rear of the trailer. In theory, it may launch easier (sort of). In practice, you may find the tongue you could pick up may pick itself up ...
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Old 01-22-2015, 03:54 PM
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For the tracker i have a 30ft or so rope that i snap around the eye on the bow and snap to the wench strap. Back trailer till the tires are at the water jump out fix the rope up, jump in dunk the boat, pull up, jump out grab the rope pull the boat over out of the way, then go park the truck. Takes me less time than it does when the wife is helping me.
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Old 01-22-2015, 05:26 PM
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What is this?

Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
Dont forget you should always chalk your wheels on the truck.
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