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tips to avoid needing to back boat so far down at ramp?

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tips to avoid needing to back boat so far down at ramp?

Old 01-22-2015, 07:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MikeAqua View Post
What is this?
I'm thinking: "chock".
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:01 PM
  #22  
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I almost always have to launch alone. I use a long line attached to bow cleat and looped around my truck's bumper. Our ramps depending on tide level sometimes require backing into the salt and brackish water! I just look back, roll back, look for boat starting to float a bit then hit the brakes and hope it comes off then pull ahead, get out, get line and walk the boat to a docking space on side pier of ramp. Thing I must remember..rinse that truck well, along with cleaning up boat. Each ramp is so different, sometimes having my back wheels in the water just has to happen if I'm going to launch. Well made nice ramps with a good angle..no problem, so easy..but we have many that are not so good and getting wet for me being alone is just part of the boating thing. With my smaller boats though I could crawl from bow to truck tail gate. Getting to old to do that now so over the side I go to wade to the truck. So to me it is all about the ramp no matter what trailer/boat..some work well, others can be one big hassle and I don't have 4 wheel drive. I wish I had a hitch on the front of the truck sometimes.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by LouC View Post
I put a longer tongue on my trailer and I use the loop the line around the winch post trick. I have a roller trailer and contrary to what people think it does not fly off, I can push it off but when I unwind the winch with line looped round the winch post, I give it a push and it will move back just enough so its floating, but I can still climb over the bow and release the winch strap. Line is holding the boat so it can't go anywhere. Then I lower the drive, start it up, let it warm up, untie the line (still doesn't roll off) and shift to reverse and back off. Works very well.
Where did you buy a longer tongue for your trailer?
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Old 01-25-2015, 12:03 PM
  #24  
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I have a '94 Load Rite and was able to get a factory Load Rite tongue with the holes already drilled in the right places. Got it from
www.trailerpartsdepot.com
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Old 01-25-2015, 12:26 PM
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tie a line on your stern eye closest to the dock , back in, walk line around to dock and cleat line to dock. pull forward 2 feet which will slide your boat backwards.
back up again, climb aboard and finish launching the boat.
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Old 01-25-2015, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LouC View Post
I have a '94 Load Rite and was able to get a factory Load Rite tongue with the holes already drilled in the right places. Got it from
www.trailerpartsdepot.com
Thanks
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:26 PM
  #27  
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http://www.surfixinc.com/surfix_trailer_bunkslides.html


Try this site you may be able to modify the trailer to accommodate
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:10 PM
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Put a sliding tongue on your trailer. Mine slides out 8-10 feet, maybe more. I can post a pic tomorrow.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:35 AM
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I have a 16' Carolina Skiff. What I did was lower the bunks as low as I could keeping the forward end a degree or 2 higher than the rear. Also use the silicone spray.

When you do this ALWAYS use a safety chain or strap to keep the boat from pre-mature launching. Don't trust the winch to hold your boat.
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:00 PM
  #30  
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You could fit Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethelene to your bunks. This is a very low friction plastic. I fitted some on the trailer bunks for a boat I owned. It slid off so wellI I could launch and retrieve it on my lawn.

Edit: I forgot to say UHMWPE is also quite a hard palstic - so you would need to be sure it won't damage your hull.

Last edited by MikeAqua; 02-03-2015 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:58 PM
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here's a pic...
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Old 02-06-2015, 06:01 AM
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From your other thread, you have a CS JVX 16.
The reason for the large yellow discs on the side of the bow roller on the trailer is because of the construction of the rub rail lip on the CS. It is 3-4" wide, and about 1-2" deep.

The standard 3" trailer bow roller happens to fit quite nicely inside this lip. problem is when launching, your boat now gets hung up with the roller inside the boat lip and you can't lift it up to disengage without doing a bit of wading and having the strength to lift up on the bow of the boat.

Your probably never going to get it disengaged if you are sitting inside your boat at launch while your partner is backing you down the ramp. The simple solution was to put larger outside discs on the bow roller that will not fit up inside the lip of the boat.

Another solution that was popular was to bolt a piece of 2" pvc pipe inside the lip at the bow. Essentially filling the cavity of the lip so the bow roller couldn't get hung up inside of it.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:40 PM
  #33  
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i have the same problem , was going to make a sliding tube with a couple pin holes and a stop so you cant pull it out by accident. one at stock position for proper toung wieght while towwing and one more to chock the wheel slide fwd about 4 ft and repin to launch. they sell a swing away toung for garage parking , you might be able to fit it to another tube u bolted with a spacer to the side of your existing one and use both if you didnt want to modify the trlr. sorry dont remember who made it
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 808state View Post
Put a sliding tongue on your trailer. Mine slides out 8-10 feet, maybe more. I can post a pic tomorrow.
send a good pic so we can all make one .
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Old 02-19-2015, 07:14 AM
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There is a company that actually makes these, I think the name is extenda hitch or something similar...not cheap but it would work well on a really bad ramp.
With my trailer I was able to get the axle far enough back to get the tongue weight correct but if not the hitch extension might be a better way to go. I can say that with the longer tongue the trailer pulls and backs easier.


http://www.xtend-a-hitchnorthwest.com/
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:32 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 95Blitz View Post
"...snap to the wench strap..."
That sounds like fun, but don't tell the wife....

Last edited by kidshelleen; 02-19-2015 at 12:32 PM. Reason: add quotes
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by MikeAqua View Post
What is this?
Chalk, chock...THT bad grammer...




Yeah, I know it's grammar.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:19 PM
  #38  
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Tongue extension will help.......but may still leave you too far back.

Sell the bunk trailer and buy a roller trailer...................problem will be done, over.

With a roller trailer, you wrap the bow line a few turns around the trailer stem, then unwrap the line till the line starts to slip .......and the boat slowly rolls off the back.

People see me launch my 21' and say " gee you sure have that down to a science."

Well, I've had bunk and roller and can tell you............roller makes launching alone easy and dry. Dry being the other key word.
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Old 03-18-2015, 06:48 PM
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Like lou c said extenda hitchnorthwest is exactly what i want to make. extending the trailer toung at the launch site is much safer. some said reciever extension but depending on the length could be stressful on the truck think of it like putting a pipe on a ratchet the longer it is the easier it is to break something.a 12 inch with a light boat prob wont hurt any but i think your gonna want more like 4 feet to float it. either way do it at the ramp and tow the streets with the propper tounge wieght.
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:03 PM
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Look at trailer/boat and tow vehicle on level ground. Posting a photo would help, too.

My brother had a heck of a time launching his Seadoo.

Turns out the dealer had set the bunks higher than necessary, and higher towards the stern.

So on shallow angle ramps he was almost pushing the boat uphill to get it launched! If he

backed in 'till it floated his bumper would be under!!

A quick fix was to use a higher ball mount when at the ramp, this improved the ability of the

boat to slide off the trailer. Ultimately, lowering the bunks will help even more. I'm sure you'll

be able to improve your set-up.
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