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Angler Boat Resource Thread - DIY's, Photos and Findings

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Angler Boat Resource Thread - DIY's, Photos and Findings

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Old 12-17-2014, 06:38 PM
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Default Angler Boat Resource Thread - DIY's, Photos and Findings

All,

I've owned a 2004 Angler 2004FX for a little over a year now and I've took it upon myself to try and find out everything I can about my boat. While updating, fixing and modifying a second hand boat, I feel like I've learned a lot on my own and from online resources. The one thing that has constantly been a challenge it to dig up specific information regarding modifying or upgrading this boat let alone the other models Angler once had to offer. Since I've learned quite a bit here on THT, I'd like to try and give back a little.

I'd like this thread not to be an Angler bashing thread (as I've seen plenty of) but instead a resource thread for any Angler owner. The thread will be subject to revision, but what good thread isn't?

To keep the thread search friendly, I'm proposing starting a new reply for each individual subject / make / model covered or relevant search term in the "Subject" field available during the reply.

I will begin posting in short order and I hope that this thread catches on and can be helpful.

Tight lines.

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Old 12-17-2014, 06:38 PM
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Default Angler 204 FX – GPS Install – Garmin 740S

I purchased this boat second hand and the previous owner has a portable GPS (which he mounted in an awful location – holes still need dealt with). Anyway, I wanted a versatile unit and sprung for the Garmin 740S. I considered flush mounting the unit, but decided a bail mount on top of the console would be most convenient to read, and use while underway. No need to bend over of glance too far down.

I followed the instructions provided with the unit, but here are a few photos of the installation process.

Location
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Mounting holes drilled:


Wire chase drilled:
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Holes in the dash:
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Unit installed:
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There are no special installation notes here. Just follow manufacturers suggested procedures and understand what is behind the console when drilling. There should be no obstructions.

Please let me know if you have any questions!
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:39 PM
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Default Angler 204 FX – Trim Tab Installation – Lenco 12 x 9 Standard Performance 15035-101

I have two main ride issues with this boat. 1) I throw quite a bit of spray when the outboard is trimmed the whole way down. I haven’t resolved this yet, but I feel it’s due to the mounting position of the outboard. It’s on the lowest position. 2) I have to keep it trimmed way down to avoid porpoising in almost all sea conditions.

I decided to fix the later with trim tabs. I knew this would improve my ride in chop, get me on plane faster and give me more versatility in varying weather and chop conditions. Those who know the Chesapeake, know that this is important.

I opted for Lenco tabs due to ease of install. Both Lenco and Bennett seem to be pretty equal and everyone seems to have their reason for each. I chose a 12” wide by 9” deep “Standard Performance” tab kit due to it’s more rigid build and upgraded materials and looks. I also went for the LED Trim Indicator Switch. I bought the switch new off of Craigslist and purchased the tabs from PBS Boat Store.

By the way, having a second set of hands is necessary for this.

We started by locating the tabs in the proper location and outlining the location with masking tape. In the case of this hull, the tab had to cross a strake but I confirmed with Lenco that this was the best way to go about dealing with it as the other edge was 2” from the chine.

I marked the drill bit with tape to avoid drilling too deep into the transom. The transom is cored, so when you get through the glass, drilling is easy, be sure not to push too hard and too quickly. Also, make sure you are square to the angle of the transom.

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We attached the actuators and traced the mounting locations and drilled for mounting points as well as the through hole for the wire leads.

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The remainder of the installation is straight forward. Note worthy things to mention are as follows:

1. I used 5200 to bed the tabs and actuators. Be sure to fill each screw hole with 5200 before driving the screw.
2. Prior to sealing, run the screw in (not tight) and back out to make sure the hole is appropriately drilled.
3. I used painters tape to keep my 5200 mess down to a minimum. Its worked well.
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Last edited by NauticallyChallenged; 12-17-2014 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:39 PM
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Default Angler 204 FX - LED Trim Indicator Switch – Lenco 30007-001

I decided to mount the switch inline with the binnacle. Seems like this is a great spot to get to when your hand is on the throttle. It’s been great so far, and I highly recommend the location.

Install is as simple as measuring, taping down the provided template and drilling accordingly. Remember, this area is cored and there may be things mounted in the console. Verify location compatibility before drilling!

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I wired the tab control box to the Accessory 2 rocker switch on the dash. I opted for this so I didn’t have to tie into the ignition circuit. I just make sure to turn the switch off before I load and the tabs retract. I also mounted the control box itself to a piece of starboard on the lower side of the interior of the console.

Actuator leads were pulled through the rigging tube on the starboard side of the fuel tank.
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:43 PM
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This is a start....

I've got plenty more topics to write on including:
- Bilge access
- Float switch replacement
- Livewell seacock location and maintenance
- Rigging tube location and wire chases
- T-Top rigging
- Battery switch wiring and locations
- Fuel Cell findings and fixes
- Custom dash configurations
- and more!
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:13 AM
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looking good. when you run your cables or wires make sure to leave a pull cord.The cord they use for shrink wrap is great to use for pulls.
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:37 PM
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djy,

Good tip. I leave weed whacker line in all my rigging locations (including the t-top) for future pulls.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:10 PM
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Nice post. Wish I'd kept a log of the stuff I've done to my Angler over the years. Shame they're out of business.
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Old 12-19-2014, 03:08 PM
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This might just be the best/most informative thread for me. I've got a 2007 Angler 204FX myself. Here's a pic of my boat.

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I've got the 740s flush mounted on my boat

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I don't have the instructional pics like you do, but 1 tip I can offer...install hydraulic lifts on the front deck. As you can see, the front deck is all 1 piece, which is even heavier to lift/drop in a rough sea. I can release the lock and it flips open, apply a little pressure to lower it and lock it back up. Great when you've got a fish in 1 hand and need to throw it in the box. Here's a pic:

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Now I've got some questions...

1. I see you installed the trim tabs. I've noticed a great deal of "bow bounce" in my boat while running the Gulf chop. Since you've installed the tabs, have you noticed a difference in the ride? I've heard some people say it works well, and others say it wouldn't make a difference.

2. How much access do you have in your bilge? My bilge pump and livewell pump are in the bilge. However, my bilge is a b!tch to get to! You can see there is a hatch on top and an access port behind the leaning post. The hatch on top has a non-removable bin inside it that blocks the access port. I am tempted to cut the bin so that I can remove it for better access. I will get some pics of it open tomorrow so you can see.

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Thanks for putting this thread together. I'll keep an eye on it and we can collaborate!
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Old 12-19-2014, 06:27 PM
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Default Angler 204 FX - Bilge Access

LiquidAsset,

Thans for contributing! Nice ride too!

I've thought about adding the hydraulic piston to my front fish box, but I haven't gotten around to it just yet. I am plagued with the "peeling hatch paint" issue that some have spoke of. I plan on removing the hatch, sanding and then applying a spray on bedliner in white and maybe stencil in the Angler logo. Gotta be proud of our rigs, right?

My bilge access is a little different. You have a newer year model boat, so you have the bench seating in the rear, I don't have that. I have rod holders that create a splash well with a 6" access port. The brand is Rabud "Twist-N-Lock" and can be found at DuskyOnline.com. Anyway, access is tight. I recently replaced my float switch and redid some of the wiring below. The factory, or previous owner had zip tied the bilge float and pump wires to the bilge discharge hose. This placement put the wires under water if water entered the bilge in any amount. I re-wired and re-routed to run directly up and under the splash well to my rigging tube. If that makes sense?

Here are is a photo of the bilge access port:

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Embarrassed to show, but here are a few shots of my bilge before I cleaned it up.

Straight down looking at bilge pump, hose and float switch:

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Looking starboard at bilge discharge routing and rigging tube entry (notice where the bilge wires are) This is all cleaned up and re-wired now:

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Looking port at battery / oil reservoir tray, scupper hose and underside of splash well:

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Raw water wash down / live well pump with standard brass ball valve inline. Plan on replacing:

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I have an AirMar B60 in the garage waiting for installation. Haven't had the nuts to drill the hole yet since I'm not convinced I have the wiggle room to get in there and work. I may take a shot at it in the coming months. Just need to be sure I can get the nut tightened on the back side.
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Old 12-19-2014, 06:32 PM
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I completely recommend trim tabs... they've changed the entire attitude of the boat. It's really like a new, much better riding hull. I wouldn't have it any other way!
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Old 12-19-2014, 06:34 PM
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Oh.. and heres another reason I didn't flush mount the 740s on that side of the console... more to come on this:

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Old 12-20-2014, 03:47 AM
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Default Angler Boats - Fuel / Gas Tank Fumes or Holes Issue

Angler boats have a reputation for failing aluminum gas tanks. If water is able to make its way to the top of tank, via poor deck hatch seal or fill port seal, there is a possibility that the steel ribbing in the dryer vent hose used to route the fill and vent hoses will cause corrosion where it touches the top of the aluminum gas tank. Some know this as galvanic corrosion or corrosion due to dissimilar metals.

Here is a photo of the plumbing described above from the Angler product line booklet:
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Here is a photo of the top of the tank on my 2004 Angler 204 FX. The picture is oriented looking forward and slightly to the port side from the rear deck hatch. You can see the "dryer vent" looking hose used to route the fill and vent lines from the tank:

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Here is the photo of the information plate on the tank in my boat. It is manufactured by Florida Marine Tanks (http://www.floridamarinetanks.com) curiously out of North Carolina. They've been helpful when I requested some assistance regarding my sender... so I would definitely consider there as replacement manufacturer if my tank develops this issue.

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NEI_Boater, here on HullTruth did a good write up and took a few photos when he had to replace his tank in his 2005 Angler 2200. Angler did provide decent access to the tank, and from what I can tell, it is not foamed in like others. Hopefully NEI_Boater doesn't mind me adding him in here.

Here is a link to the thread and photos:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...-gas-tank.html

Album Photos:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/members/...sole-5687.html

Fishanytime, here on Hull Truth also did a write up with some great pictures. His introductory post can be found here on page 9, but a link to his findings on his Angler 220F is here:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...-problems.html

Album Photos:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/members/...oles-6802.html

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Old 12-21-2014, 05:07 AM
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Subscribed!
I picked up a 2003 Angler 204 about 3 months ago. Engine is a 2003 Johnson 140 fourstroke.
I haven't been able to run yet besides the test drive. Previous owner was very meticulous.
Looking to start a few projects/modifications. Trim tabs, leaning post, and dual batteries are on the top of the list.

LiquidAsset - the hydraulic fish box lift is a mod I'll definitely be doing.

Looking forward to following and contributing to the thread.
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:01 PM
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Nautical,

Thanks for the gas tank info. I will keep in handy in case I run into any gas tank problems...knock on wood.

Here's my bilge access I was talking about. You can see there isn't a whole lot of room. I am tempted to cut that hatch and make it removable. However, the hatch itself is bigger than the opening as you can see from the top down view.
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Top down view into the hatch:
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Do you have a freshwater washdown? If not, here's something the previous owner did to the boat. He put a bladder in the console under the front cooler seat with a Jabsco pump. The hose is on the side of the console and the fill tube is underneath the front seat cushion. Pics:

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Everything on the top of my console would slide off while the boat was underway. We tend to leave pliers, spools of leaders, phones, etc up there. I cut a strip of starboard and mounted it to the front edge as a stopper.

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Old 12-22-2014, 06:29 PM
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Toedrag,

Thanks for subscribing and I look forward to your contributions. The 3 modifications you've listed are great ones and will greatly improve the ride, comfort and reliability of your boat.

If you'd like to use the "factory" leaning post guy I think I've found him. I may have him make my back rest for my leaning post soon. Seems reasonable, and he worked for the company who made the Angler leaning posts. Prices are reasonable too. SE Customs. www.secustommarine.com

When I changed my wiring around, I went with all Blue Seas parts. I recommend the "Add-a-Battery Kit". This will allow you to use both a starting and marine cycle battery and keep them both charged without having to switch between battery 1 and 2... ever. Good set up, easy to wire and I've found it to be reliable. I mounted both to a piece of starboard and located them both in the factory location.

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I'd like to get my switch and battery moved up to the console though kind of like this, but with much cleaner wiring:

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Old 12-22-2014, 06:43 PM
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Liquid,

Wow...they didn't give you much room there did they. Looks like your best / only bilge access lies in your motor well, between that compartment and your transom. That's about where mine is, but I have a little more wiggle room.

Did they intend for that compartment to be the live well? Is it plumbed? I'd be a little hesitant to put a hatch inside there if it's not absolutely necessary to access.

However, it is important to exercise the valve / sea-cock on the raw water pump every few months. Looks like you might have to stand on your head to do it though. I'll be curious to see what you come up with there.

No freshwater washdown on my boat. I'm reserving that spot for my batteries I believe. I was also able to mount a suction cup style cup / misc holder on my dash. Holds pliars, phones, lures, jig heads, beers, whatever. Deep Blue Marine MB-2. Works nice.
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Old 12-23-2014, 11:16 AM
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I like the "add a battery" and will likely go that way with my install.

The only thing the previous owner did to the boat that I dislike is that he removed the captains chairs and fastened a sheet of 3/4" plywood with a custom cushion on top of the existing pedestals.
I am toying with the idea of keeping the existing pedestals and installing the Todd Universal Leaning post. (http://www.toddusa.com/leaningpost.aspx) This way I don't have to mess with plugging the existing holes. Thoughts?

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Old 12-23-2014, 12:00 PM
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Thanks for starting this thread. I have a 2005 Angler 22'. I have the same fuel problems mentioned in the thread you have here. I'll be replacing the fuel tank this winter.
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Old 12-23-2014, 12:49 PM
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nice looking boats guys
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