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1975 18' SF Seacraft- Project!

Old 05-04-2014, 09:10 AM
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Default 1975 18' SF Seacraft- Project!

Got this project, haven't done much other than reading and planning how to restore this 18' that needs a a complete overhaul.

This boat needs a lot of structural work compared to my work on the '91 Contender.

The demolition was mostly done on the hull when I got it, and I cutout the deck, liner, and cap.

Plan is no liner, flush deck/ no step up box in front, raising the stringers and deck, raising the hull sides to keep the freeboard, make the cap one piece, and close the transom for now.

Also thinking about bracket/ hull extension.

Here is how she looked when I started.
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Last edited by daveschw; 05-04-2014 at 12:54 PM.
Old 05-04-2014, 09:18 AM
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Gutted, transom ground down, inside and out, stringers cut back.

Put some cloth over the the exterior transom holes and will fill them in from inside when I do the layup.

You can see how the transom is distorted.

I left some of the liner on the sides so the hull won't splay out; will put some support 2x4s after I get the transom done.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:32 AM
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Test fit the 1.5" Aircell 24lb. core; added a layer of 1708 to the transom side.

I can either cut it down later to make a 25" notched transom or leave it full and make a bracket/extension.

Filled in the holes with thickened epoxy, laid out some matt, 1708, and spread thickened epoxy/putty over it.

Also bedded the core on the sides with the putty.

After bedding the core, added more putty and tabbed some 1708 to the edges.

Then I screwed the core to the outer skin and added some braces from the inside
All the layup was done wet on wet.

Later planning on three layers of Biax and some 1708 to fill, on the outside, wrapping around the hull sides and bottom; and some matt and at least three layers of Biax on the inside.

Also laid out some scribe lines for the flotation tub/bracket.
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Last edited by daveschw; 05-04-2014 at 11:26 PM.
Old 05-04-2014, 09:43 AM
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Well looks like the transom skin was too distorted and the screws didn't pull all of it in tight, so have a lot of voids.

Last pic is where I'm at now.

Removed most of the old outside skin and the laminate that I had laid on before the core.
What's left is mostly solid, except on the right side, where I need to grind out to the hull edge.
Probably will grind out the left side also to even it out for the new glass.

Debating whether to continue from the outside and tab Biax to tie the core to hull outsides, and finish with 1708, or go from the inside.
Will be easier to fair by going inside but I'll need to make a MDF board face/mold. And I might not be able to remove the core at this point.
Glassing to the outsides and under the hull and then fairing will be a pain.
But at this point I may have to continue this way.

So I'm debating whether to just repair this and laminate a new outside skin, wrapping around the hull sides and bottom, or remove or all of the core, and start over.
From the core in it's solid. This probably would be fine if I make into a notched 25" transom.

But I'm seriously considering a hull extension with a closed transom, since it's a small boat and I fish offshore mostly.
Will it be strong enough to build/attach the flotation tub to this core/skin?
If I do it this way, I'm thinking extra support stringers and even through bolting it on.

Or should I rip out the core and tie the main stringers right into the tub?
I can probably tie the deck directly into the tub, making it the swim platform. This way may be stronger and lighter, but I lose all the work I've already done and I'll still have to make a new bulkhead/transom?
I want to build the tub from the outer strakes inwards, so it'll be 48" across at the bottom, to get the maximum flotation and leave the outer area for trim tabs.

I can either follow the hull bottom to make an extension or raise the tub a few inches to make a bracket.

I'm not as concerned with raising the bracket up to get more speed as to get maximum flotation to carry the weight of a four stroke motor moved back 24".
Besides I think extending the hull may be easier for my minimal boat building skills.

Also it would be easier to build the extension all the way out to the hull sides, but then you'd have to stick the trim tabs aft; that's why I'm thinking of starting at the outer strake to make room for the tabs.
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Last edited by daveschw; 05-27-2014 at 07:41 PM.
Old 05-04-2014, 04:51 PM
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Dave now you when and did it... What you plan to use this boat for? Subscribe::: what motor you plan to use? Most the 4 stroke 115 to 150hp are about 400lbs. I would think a floation bracket about as wide as you transom notch out would be good. this would get you room for trim tabs too.
I would use extra care if you have to glass down around to bottom of the hull. it could be easy to add unwanted kick to bottom of the hull.

If you don't have console Manny now has narrow and shorten console off the 25 that he using on 22'. just thought.
Now I feel better about the small section of floor i'm repairing and moving the Leaning Post livewell front 4"inch .
Old 05-04-2014, 07:08 PM
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Glenn, I'm going to use it for everything I do now, some reef running, deep dropping and swording.
Ideally I'd like a 140 Suzuki four stroke or down to a 115.

I don't remember, but do you have a bracket on your 233 with the 250 Suzuki?

I probably removed over 500 lbs. out of the boat, with the plywood deck, liner, cap, wood transom, under deck boxes, etc., so hopefully after what goes back in, the boat will be lighter, and ride higher.
It would nice if the boat could run with a 90hp; imagine 5-6+ mpg!

It looks like I'm going to have to glass around and under the hull, no matter what.
Even if I pulled out the core, to allow me to glass the exterior skin to the inside the hull, I would still have to fair the outside; I don't mind fairing, just want it to be strong enough.

What exactly do you consider as too much kick?
Maybe a bit of hook would help lift the stern when running, kinda like a built in trim tab.

Anyway, when I glass the outside, I will definitely taper the original glass so any additional layers will taper in and be fair.
With the hull extension, I would continue the running surface as smooth as possible.

Yeah, I don't like the console that came with the hull; I want one like my original Contender console, just smaller. I think Ocean Runner makes a similar console, for less money. Taller with high windscreen and no front seat. Also the ttop bolts to the console, instead of the deck.
I may just keep it open in the beginning, but the ride out can be sloppy at times.
I was toying with making a small dog house enclosure with a integrated Key West style top.

All those nice additions that you have to buy from some company cost a lot more money than what I can make; just a lot more of my time.

It would be nice to have the boat done quickly, but I also enjoy making, what I think are improvements, on it. Besides the process keeps me busy and sane; probably why I wanted another project!

Last edited by daveschw; 05-04-2014 at 07:35 PM.
Old 05-04-2014, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by daveschw View Post
Glenn, I'm going to use it for everything I do now, some reef running, deep dropping and swording.
Ideally I'd like a 140 Suzuki four stroke or down to a 115.

I may know where there's DF 115 I check on it.

I don't remember, but do you have a bracket on your 233 with the 250 Suzuki?

yes mine has bracket with full dive platform, it was built for single motor so box isn't that big but does support some flotation.

I probably removed over 500 lbs. out of the boat, with the plywood deck, liner, cap, wood transom, under deck boxes, etc., so hopefully after what goes back in, the boat will be lighter, and ride higher.
It would nice if the boat could run with a 90hp; imagine 5-6+ mpg!

That would be fantastic.

It looks like I'm going to have to glass around and under the hull, no matter what.
Even if I pulled out the core, to allow me to glass the exterior skin to the inside the hull, I would still have to fair the outside; I don't mind fairing, just want it to be strong enough.

What exactly do you consider as too much kick?
Maybe a bit of hook would help lift the stern when running, kinda like a built in trim tab.

Guess I should have said hook, my formula has hook on very outside, which helps as I don't find myself using the trim tabs much at all.

Anyway, when I glass the outside, I will definitely taper the original glass so any additional layers will taper in and be fair.
it maybe best to use several lays of some light glass mat to get glass to lay down around sharp bottom corner. Maybe start with 3" wide strips and go up 2" wide as you add layers.
With the hull extension, I would continue the running surface as smooth as possible.

do you mean your going to build bracket to add to running surface and follow the SC bottom dual dead rise. If so it maybe easier to make 2' mold of hull . Easier wasn't the right word in the sentence . I think a bracket built to about 1 1/2" from hull bottom would get you what you need and would add running surface. The 1 1/2 space would be enough for drain plug too.
I really not to sure about bracket on that small of hull as the extra weight of bracket my out weight the flotation it adds. You could just do the 25" transom and move the console little front . If you wanted livewell built it into front of console under seat.


Yeah, I don't like the console that came with the hull; I want one like my original Contender console, just smaller. I think Ocean Runner makes a similar console, for less money. Taller with high windscreen and no front seat. Also the ttop bolts to the console, instead of the deck.
there a store north of you that sell all kinds of used boat parts. Consoles ,leaning post ,etc. I can't think of the name but sure quick goggle would bring it up.

I may just keep it open in the beginning, but the ride out can be sloppy at times.
I was toying with making a small dog house enclosure with a integrated Key West style top.

yes but I think it would kill MPG

All those nice additions that you have to buy from some company cost a lot more money than what I can make; just a lot more of my time.

so true if I had to pay for everything I've done to my 233 I never own this boat.

It would be nice to have the boat done quickly, but I also enjoy making, what I think are improvements, on it. Besides the process keeps me busy and sane; probably why I wanted another project!
Take your time you have the 25' to fish all you want , she dialed in now. Beside everytime you changes something the price goes up.
Old 05-09-2014, 10:24 PM
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Transom is cutout; came out clean.
Used a high speed disc cutter and Sawzall.
Will add braces to keep hull sides in.

Laid core back in to see how the bulkhead will look at 5 degrees, instead of the original 12 degrees.
This will help keep your feet in front of your body and I can make the transom cap narrower.

Now to decide wheter to go 25" cutout transom or hull extension.
I really want a closed transom, but it's a lot more work.
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Old 05-10-2014, 09:05 AM
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Nice work.
Old 05-11-2014, 09:07 AM
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Dave.


Laid core back in to see how the bulkhead will look at 5 degrees, instead of the original 12 degrees.
This will help keep your feet in front of your body and I can make the transom cap narrower.

Changing the transoms 5 degree will cause the boat to porpoise unless you plan to mount bracket with 12 degrees.
Have you looked at adjustable motor bracket like used on Gause boats .
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:31 AM
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Oh never mind it doesn't provide any flotation.
Old 05-11-2014, 10:28 AM
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Glenn, the motor will be mounted at 12 degrees on the extension transom; just the bulkhead will be about 5 degrees.
I really think the hull extension is the best solution for me; it'll give me static lift at rest and dynamic lift while running. that a raised bracket won't.
Plus I can make it cheaper than buying a used bracket; most of the brackets I've seen are aluminum and have small flotation tubs.

I like your idea of making a mold off the bottom of the hull; too bad I can't flip the hull over!
Old 05-11-2014, 05:09 PM
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Dave. Have look at this thread where he extended the hull 3'
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...extension.html
Old 05-12-2014, 09:49 AM
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Glenn, I've read that thread a few times and more on ClassicSeaCraft, ClassicMako, and on the net.

My latest thoughts are to make an Euro transom, like on a 21 Contender.
I won't have to make a hull extension and can use the original transom line.

With the bulkhead set about 0 degrees and 12" ahead of the transom, I'll get a small swim platform, and actually have more room than the original 12 degree transom and cap.

I'll have to make a gate, so the motor can pivot all the way up, but this will make it easier to get to the swim platform or make a door, so I can slide big fish in.

With all the other modifications I've made, I will still have a lot more room overall.

With a traditional cutout transom, you need a wider cap, and a splashwell to keep the water out.
I could just leave it open, but I've owned/ fished open transom boats, and don't like the water coming in.

So with the Euro transom, it'll keep the water out and it's simpler to make.
The amount of room I'll gain with the extension may not be worth all the work.
Old 05-13-2014, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by daveschw View Post
I

My latest thoughts are to make an Euro transom, like on a 21 Contender.
I won't have to make a hull extension and can use the original transom line.

With the bulkhead set about 0 degrees and 12" ahead of the transom, I'll get a small swim platform, and actually have more room than the original 12 degree transom and cap.

I'll have to make a gate, so the motor can pivot all the way up, but this will make it easier to get to the swim platform or make a door, so I can slide big fish in.
.
Now that sounds like the best idea. I really like idea of adding transom door that's one thing I wish my 233 had .
Old 05-27-2014, 05:57 PM
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looks good Dave! I just finished your last project and it turned out well. I will be keeping up with this one as well. trying to learn all I can as a newbi to the boat world.
Old 05-27-2014, 08:00 PM
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Thanks for the kind words!

Not a lot new, but lots of rain and now wind- ruined my canopy.
Took me quite a few more hours, and grinding discs, to remove the rest of the epoxy and get down to clean glass.
Sanded it all down also.
Ground out small white areas in the original roving; looked like they weren't filled with enough resin in the original layup. You can see lighter areas near the transom. And some small voids near the strakes and outer chine.

After considering, cutout, bracket, euro, and even a shroud, decided that the extension was the way to go.

Cut both stringers forward about 24" to give
me at least 18" overlap for the layup.
Also had to remove foam from the starboard stringer due to an ants' nest that had drilled throughout.
Overall the stringers are in good shape other than some holes someone drilled in the tops.

Now to make/attach the forms, but weather is finally nice, so I'm going fishing next few days.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:02 PM
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Another pic-cleaned up!
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:37 PM
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Used a hydraulic jack and jack stands to lift the hull and move the trailer forward about two feet. Gives me some room to glass now.

Slow going trying to figure out how to make and secure the forms under the hull.
I don't have a table or miter saw so I'd have to make cuts with a hand held circular saw and the angle cuts are tough to make clean and straight. So trying to use precut double sided melamine boards, as much as possible, and to fill in gaps later.

I've never done this type of structural work before, and lack of tools and work space, is all slowing me down as I try to figure it out, and of course, run and get more tools and supplies.

I think this extension is the hardest part of the rebuild, mainly because I don't have any experience with this and there's not a lot of documentation available.

Interestingly in trying to level out the hull, the hull curves in at the sides and up underneath, I guess what's called rocker.
Also it looks like the bow keel is deeper than the stern keel. And while the stringers are level. the deck rises as you go forward, presumably pitch for drainage.
Makes it hard to figure exactly what is level.

Anyway, going with level side to side at the transom, and following the contour of the hull bottom.

Hopefully will have the cradle done in next few days.

Going to need a new enclosure now.
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:44 PM
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Dave hit Harbor freight get a lot tie straps. Tie trap down every 6" then have large 20' x 30' silver traps too .

Wow I'm amazed at how good the stringers still look.

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