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Sunbird SeaCore 150DC - rebuild & upgrade

Old 11-06-2020, 03:23 PM
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I'm looking for some advice on the layup schedule. I currently have 7 layers of CSM on the main surface, one layer of biax covering the whole surface and 3 layers of biax on the edges. I'm missing about 1/4 inch of thickness on the center area compared to the old transom.

What do you guys think about the strength of the current layup? I could create thickness by adding heavier pieces of cloth to build thickness.


Last edited by DutchCenterC; 11-06-2020 at 03:34 PM.
Old 11-06-2020, 07:01 PM
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I would build it up with some biaxial or alternating woven cloth and csm to reach the desired thickness.
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Old 11-15-2020, 05:09 AM
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Some small updates, I think we will be able to flip the hull around new year. We stil have to reattach the hull to the top, refill with foam, place the gastank and close it up with fiberglas.

My dad working on the fairing and precision sanding of the transom

Fairing compound with fibers for the larger gaps. Really happy that we are finished with the fiberglas work on the transom.

This season some boat hit us on the rear right corner

There is still some work to do but I'm quite happy with the reconstruction

Electrical goodies from China

Received these goodies from Germany and yes those are hearth socks!
Old 11-15-2020, 07:38 AM
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The transom looks sweet. You probably won’t be able to see how the damaged corner turned out until there’s some paint on it. But surely it’s gonna be nice
Old 11-15-2020, 08:25 AM
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Looks great!
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Old 11-28-2020, 10:23 AM
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We're still putting in the hours only it is not really picture worthy. Everything is foamed in its place en we can close the hole that we cut in the deck. I'm really happy that we were able to put all the cables below the deck so the boat will have a much cleaner look. Also started work on the center console I hope to finish it next week! After this is all done we can start thinking about paint.




Tank is in its place

Put cups on all the gas tank connections so when everything is hardened it is time for some digging.

Time to clean!

Also started work on the console. Everything is glassed with one layer of CSM on either side and now we will glue everything together

We thought it would be better to use these sticks and glue everything togheter instead of using screws
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Old 12-02-2020, 01:04 AM
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Looks good, looking forward for more updates

The worst thing with this kind of work is finishing IMO. Making things work and be structurally sound is easy and takes not much time. Making them look nice however....

I think my boat came with the exact same fuel tank. Did you leave the old fuel level sender in? If it's the same as mine it will only work with US standard fuel gauges 20-220 ohms or something like this. The EU standard is 0-190 ohms. The fuel level sender in my tank is unfortunately not overly precise (not many different positions), but it's good enough for knowing when to refuel.

Also take care with the china electronics. Make sure to put a fuse just behind the battery and before any of the electronics, so in case the china craft causes a short somewhere your new foam doesn't go up in flames. Cheap and easy way to prevent damage.
Old 12-02-2020, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mangimi View Post
Looks good, looking forward for more updates

The worst thing with this kind of work is finishing IMO. Making things work and be structurally sound is easy and takes not much time. Making them look nice however....

I think my boat came with the exact same fuel tank. Did you leave the old fuel level sender in? If it's the same as mine it will only work with US standard fuel gauges 20-220 ohms or something like this. The EU standard is 0-190 ohms. The fuel level sender in my tank is unfortunately not overly precise (not many different positions), but it's good enough for knowing when to refuel.

Also take care with the china electronics. Make sure to put a fuse just behind the battery and before any of the electronics, so in case the china craft causes a short somewhere your new foam doesn't go up in flames. Cheap and easy way to prevent damage.
Finishing really sucks luckily my Dad is a bit more patient and he already started on the transom which now looks better than new i.m.o. On boat builders central is read a trick to roll on thickened polyester resin as final layers to fill the irregularity of the CSM and matting. I did the inside of the console door with this technique and will post if it works.

I didn't switch the fuel sender but I'm looking for original Mercury gauges so I'll check if there is a difference but I really appreciate the heads up! In regards to the China stuff, the quality is really good except for the wires which will be replaced by EU-standard as you can see in the pic. ​​​ I'll be sure to put in the main fuse just to be sure!

Old 12-04-2020, 12:27 PM
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Nice work on the transom and you have some skills with that sketch up app I've tried to use it but gave up lol. I personally would not have foamed in the fuel tank the way you did, I would have built walls around it and foamed in around it and make an access hatch for it, you never know when you may need to access it for repairs.
Old 12-04-2020, 03:27 PM
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Thank you for the kind words! It took me a few tries to get the sketch how I envisioned it but after you know the basics it is really easy to create something like this. Round forms are a PITA to get in sketch up so sketching a hull would be a nightmare.

You are 100% right about the fuel tank and I putt cups on the all the connections and cut them out, will try to show it in pictures next week. I think the boat will be scrapped when it needs a new fuel tank so I did not worry about being able to replace it easily.
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Old 12-20-2020, 05:47 AM
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Last week we rejoined the hull and the deck with rivets which caused some muscle soreness. We want to maintain the original non-skid so we roughed it up with a steel brush and cleaned all the dirt of it. The rest was sanded with 120 grit and our random orbital sander. We used Sigmacover 280 as the first layer of epoxy high build primer which is commonly used over here because it is durable and affordable. It only costs 50 euro per gallon. The layer of primer shows which areas we still need to fill and sand. After all the fairing and sanding I plan to do another layer of primer.

After the last layer of primer we plan to flip the boat to paint the underside and give it the final layer and then finish the deck leaning post and center console.




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Old 12-20-2020, 05:59 AM
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Very nice work. Will look like new when you are done.
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Old 12-26-2020, 03:02 PM
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Merry Christmas to anyone who is following this thread! Today we rolled the boat over to work on the underside. We plan to paint the underside with 4-5 layer of high build primer. With these layers applied the underside should be completely protected against osmoses and de-lamination according to sigma coatings. After which we need to apply antifouling primer and then a layer of antifouling.

Before all the building there are some areas that need a little love because of damages but overall it looks really good! Even-though it is only a small boat the 400kg's of boat caused some health and safety hazards today. Fortunately all our limbs are still attached and there are no broken bones.



Old 12-27-2020, 12:31 PM
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Looking for advise. It turns out we have some problems with osmosis. The local shop advises to pry all the loose stuff out and fill with polyester fiber filler. What is your advise to tackle this?




Old 12-28-2020, 07:30 AM
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I have had good results sanding with a heavy grit making sure you open up any blisters then pressure wash to get any dust out of the cracks or pits and then fill the big stuff with structural filler (poly or epoxy with cabosil) then 3-5 coats of interlux 2000e. If you’re all poly you can go back over with gelcoat.
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Old 12-30-2020, 07:52 AM
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Good luck in your venture. Your hands will be full al winter.
Old 01-14-2021, 01:59 PM
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Small update. The boat received 5 layers of high build primer and is ready to apply the bonding layer for the antifouling paint but we haven't found the time yet. Putting the time that we have in the console which is coming together nicely.
What do you guys think about putting the gauges and switch panel into a black plexiglas panel?



Old 01-14-2021, 11:43 PM
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The console is coming together great. I wouldn’t put a backing plate under the gauges. Acrylic is scratching very easily and to me these screwed in plates look like a cheap cover up of former mistakes.

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