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Oil Change Yamaha 250hp 4 Stroke

Old 08-10-2020, 10:46 AM
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Default Oil Change Yamaha 250hp 4 Stroke

I'm going to do an oil change on my 2008 Yamaha 250hp 4 stroke with about 1,100 hrs on it. I gather it's not rocket science, but I've never done it myself and I've had a mechanic do the few that I've had to get done so far since buying the boat. I'm wondering if anyone has a youtube video they like, things to make sure I buy, some tips/tricks to keep in mind as I do it, etc.

Also, the last mechanic switched me over to fully synthetic during the last oil change. Any recommendations for a particular oil to buy?

Much appreciated

-Dave
Old 08-10-2020, 11:11 AM
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not hard at all , need a filter wrench and a oil pump to pull the oil out the dipstick and some oil absorbent pads. tilt the engine half way up for 15 minuets then back down to normal position to allow all the oil to drain to the pan. Put a pad under the filter before unscrewing it.




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Old 08-10-2020, 11:37 AM
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It's very simple as stated above. If your boat is on a trailer. You can drain it with a pump, then pull the starboard cover off the mid-section to remove the drain plug to remove the last of the oil. Make sure you use a new washer for the drain plug. The key to not making a mess when you remove the filter is to put a gallon zip lock bag over the filter. Loosen it slightly then tilt the engine all the way up. Unscrew the filter and drop it into the zip lock bag.
Old 08-10-2020, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Mud Runner View Post
You can drain it with a pump, then pull the starboard cover off the mid-section to remove the drain plug to remove the last of the oil. .
Yamaha considers either
draining the oil through the plug,
or
pulling it out through the dipstick tube,
to be equivalent methods and equally suitable.

There is no good reason to use the drain plug
after you've already suctioned the oil through the dipstick.
You risk damaging the apron,
crossthreading or stripping the drain threads -
for what?
The imaginary significance of a few drops of 'dirty oil'?
Old 08-10-2020, 12:02 PM
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I bought one of these, along with the filter cup/wrench. Makes it pretty clean and easy.

https://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Oil.../yamoilpan.htm
Old 11-20-2020, 04:27 AM
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I have a 2006 F250, what I will tell you that be careful refilling it with oil, these motors are known to “hide” oil and it’s easy to over fill it. I fill mine to the bottom of the dipstick operating range run the engine and the recheck it and add more if necessary.

Also if you haven’t in a while you may want to change out your thermostats.

Cya,

jr
Old 11-26-2020, 06:26 PM
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If you have a new outboard, how does do it yourself oil changes effect the warranty?
Old 11-26-2020, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Capt Sport View Post
I have a 2006 F250, what I will tell you that be careful refilling it with oil, these motors are known to “hide” oil and it’s easy to over fill it. I fill mine to the bottom of the dipstick operating range run the engine and the recheck it and add more if necessary.

Also if you haven’t in a while you may want to change out your thermostats.

Cya,

jr
You may have more going on there then just trapped oil.....
Old 11-27-2020, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by westbootie View Post
If you have a new outboard, how does do it yourself oil changes effect the warranty?

https://yamahaoutboards.com/en-us/ho...rces/all/faq#0

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Old 11-27-2020, 04:38 AM
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Default Oil change kit

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I had one of these and foolishly gave it to a guy that bought my boat. Now I have a pump up vacuum.
Old 11-27-2020, 09:14 PM
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Thank you!!
Old 11-29-2020, 01:09 PM
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The vacuum pumps work well and I would not worry about getting the last bit of oil in the pan, as long as you are doing regular oil changes you should have a nice clean engine on the inside. I have a Topsider that I've been using about 15 years on my inboard and a couple of cap wrenches that fit the two different filters I use depending on what's available (Merc/Quicksilver or Sierra).

Old 12-03-2020, 08:18 AM
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I ultimately decided to pay a Yamaha shop to do the service on mine. But I watched a lot of videos and this is the one I liked the best:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj_QzJK0V1c&list=WL
Old 12-16-2020, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Mud Runner View Post
It's very simple as stated above. If your boat is on a trailer. You can drain it with a pump, then pull the starboard cover off the mid-section to remove the drain plug to remove the last of the oil. Make sure you use a new washer for the drain plug. The key to not making a mess when you remove the filter is to put a gallon zip lock bag over the filter. Loosen it slightly then tilt the engine all the way up. Unscrew the filter and drop it into the zip lock bag.
What he says! Drain oil, loosen filter and slip gallon bag over it, tilt engine up and remove filter and let it fall in bag. Easy unless your filter is too tight and you end up stripping the remover and have to break out the wrenches etc. Don’t overtighten the filter!

i also like to remove the spark plugs and shoot a little fogging oil in the cylinders and turn key quickly.

2006 F250s with 1,380 hours still going strong!

Old 12-29-2020, 09:43 AM
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New to me 2014 250hp 4 stroke that I just pulled for the winter - as most everyone stated, invest in a pump, made job easy. Did mine and also changed lower gear oil - very easy and didn't make a mess. I too watched a lot of videos, liked this one
Old 12-29-2020, 10:05 AM
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One time I taped a funnel under the drain so the oil would divert into my bucket. Did not go as plan when I dropped the drain plug and clogged the funnel. Don't do that. I like to put a lot or cardboard under the motor when changing fluids. I'll be using a vacuum / oil-extractor moving forward.
Old 01-08-2021, 06:36 AM
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I use the vacuum pump from west marine for years, that is easy peezee. The oil filer is not hard either.

Do not forget to do the L/U gear oil also. I do all the above while on a lift over the water. The L/U is a bit of a pain on the lift. but the engine oil is POC

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